Points striker wear?

[Janicholson]

The grit size and direction of the resulting micro grooves that cause rapid rubbing block wear. Polishing only aligned with the cams rotation, never along or at an angle to its axis is key. 200 grit to establish surface smoothness, then 600grit to polish! Then point lube. Jim

 

[kencombs]

I've always used high temp wheel bearing grease, at least since disk brakes came about. They required a higher temp grease than drums. Lik!e Bryl Cream, a little dab'll do ya

 

[kencombs]

The grit size and direction of the resulting micro grooves that cause rapid rubbing block wear. Polishing only aligned with the cams rotation, never along or at an angle to its axis is key. 200 grit to establish surface smoothness, then 600grit to polish! Then point lube. Jim

I usually remove a distributor to do points work. So much easier on the bench. And while it's off, rig it up on the drill press to spin the shaft and polish it that way. 600 and a little oil.

 

[MeanGene1]

I usually remove a distributor to do points work. So much easier on the bench. And while it's off, rig it up on the drill press to spin the shaft and polish it that way. 600 and a little oil.

I'm kinda spoiled, I can just put it in one of my Sun distributor testers. Nicest are a pair of 404's that came from a HS shop program that was closed. One has the training Ignition Simulator so one can run the whole system, with a coil, resistor, and 8 plugs. The instructor used to entertain the kids by holding a piece of paper in a plug to light it on fire

 

[Gambles]

I'm kinda spoiled, I can just put it in one of my Sun distributor testers.

When I was going to automotive tech school in the early '80's, ALL cars that came in for a tuneup with contact point ignition systems had the requirement of pulling the distributor from the engine, disassembling it completely, getting it lubed and then put on the Sun distributor machine for the final dwell adjustment and ignition advance inspections. Was that overkill? Perhaps, but the customers loved it. That job was not always easy. A few cars have a tendency to have the aluminum distributor weld itself to the cast iron blocks. I also remember a couple of kids who pulled the distributor on their own car and didn't get the oil pump shaft to mate up to the distributor on reinstallation. Not a pretty result.
I also remember some kid off the street bringing in an Accel aftermarket distributor with dual points and he wanted the dwell set. I will admit I dropped the Accel distributor cap and broke it. The replacement cost came out of my own wallet. $15 was a lot of money for a kid monetarily struggling to get through school.
The funny part was that the instructors didn't want us to pull distributors that had electronic ignition, so the HEI (and others) that became common in the 70's were inspected, had the vacuum advance checked and then left alone.
Those Sun machines are nice.

 

[MeanGene1]

There's an add-on called a Pulse Amplifier that lets you do electronic distributors- I have a couple, they are a little rare and expensive. I had a Flathead Ford adapter, but someone with $350 wanted it, so... The FE Ford is one engine that doesn't actually get welded, but more like gets glued real good- takes a lot of patience, soaking, strap wrench and patience- and more patience. Nice as they show a point for each of the cylinders, so one that is a little off will show up