Pole shed tips

[m16ty]

Most people would tell you to go 16 high or you can't get a semi in it. value is much higher when you sell the property if it is taller. You may be in an area where that is not an issue.

14’ is tall enough for a semi, legal height for them going down the road is 13’ 6”.

 

[m16ty]

In some municipalities they are insistent that they have a building inspector, NOT a building instructor.

Yeah, most building inspectors will be sure to tell you when something isn’t right, but most won’t tell you how to do something right in the first place. Most like to protect the contractors they like, and won’t be very helpful to individuals building on their own.

Luckily, any farm buildings around here don’t require permits or inspections.

 

[cjunrau]

14’ is tall enough for a semi, legal height for them going down the road is 13’ 6”.

If you want an overhead door, and most have you need the extra 2 ft. I have not seen any sliding doors made for any shed in Manitoba for over 14 years. south where snow is not an issue it would make sense to go sliding.

 

[m16ty]

If you want an overhead door, and most have you need the extra 2 ft. I have not seen any sliding doors made for any shed in Manitoba for over 14 years. south where snow is not an issue it would make sense to go sliding.

Yes, I have sliding doors on my shop. We don’t get much snow though, I could see it being a problem with much snow. There is usually about 1 day a year I can’t get my shop door open because of snow, the next day it’s gone.

 

[cjunrau]

Yes, I have sliding doors on my shop. We don’t get much snow though, I could see it being a problem with much snow. There is usually about 1 day a year I can’t get my shop door open because of snow, the next day it’s gone.

sometimes i wish I lived where there was less snow. getting old makes one not like the cold and snow I guess. I used to love it and never wanted to be in a warmer climate. Always figured we were in the perfect spot. the cold killed the bugs that are poisonous, and we don't have snakes, killer bees.

 

[bc]

I’m no engineer by any means, but I am in the heavy lifting industry and have been involved with building lifting devices.

I think the pole is 12’ long and 3” dia. The taller the support, the better angle to support more weight. I have modified my bale spear to go on either the loader or 3-point and the 3rd arm attachment point sits a little higher than the spear frame, the chain is attached to that point. I just used a screw binder to tighten the chain the where it takes most of the load.

Really don’t know what the lift capacity is. I used it for setting the post and trusses on the last shed I built. I just did a test lift with the “jib” pretty flat and a test weight of the heaviest thing I would lift. There was virtually no deflection and no stability issues with the tractor so I called it good. Should pick up 300-400 lbs easy.

Just got to thinking, I have broken one of those big bale spears a couple inches from the base moving around with a big bale and hit a bump. Just something to keep in mind.

 

[m16ty]

You can’t tell from the pic, but the spear is one of the older bigger spears, not the skinny ones you see these days. That being said, it’s a good point to consider, a bale spear isn’t designed to be used as a boom pole. The chain on top is taking most of the load though, I tighten it until the slack between the pipe and the spear comes off the spear.

 

[Mobuck]

After having a concrete floor poured in my new shop building, I have ZERO confidence in ANY concrete floor. Best I could tell, the builders did a good job of compacting the gravel fill and finishing the concrete. After 1 1/2 years and two not terrible winters, the floor looks like a spider web of cracks. Not happy is the understatement of the year. For $10K, I expected at least a few years w/o cracks???

 

[redtom]

After having a concrete floor poured in my new shop building, I have ZERO confidence in ANY concrete floor. Best I could tell, the builders did a good job of compacting the gravel fill and finishing the concrete. After 1 1/2 years and two not terrible winters, the floor looks like a spider web of cracks. Not happy is the understatement of the year. For $10K, I expected at least a few years w/o cracks???

I'm certainly not a contractor but have worked for acouple and poured a few concrete jobs including my house garage and driveway and my dad's shed. My shed I hired out. Two things concrete is guaranteed to do: get hard and Crack. Best you can do is control the cracks with relief cuts and wire reinforcement. The only time I've not seen it crack is in highly specified pours like big box store floors (like HD and menards) and warehouse factory type conditions with extreme reqirements.

 

[bc]

After having a concrete floor poured in my new shop building, I have ZERO confidence in ANY concrete floor. Best I could tell, the builders did a good job of compacting the gravel fill and finishing the concrete. After 1 1/2 years and two not terrible winters, the floor looks like a spider web of cracks. Not happy is the understatement of the year. For $10K, I expected at least a few years w/o cracks???

Always helps to add some fiber and often times they don't get the right slump factor when pouring it and instead wet it down to pour easier. Can't scrimp on rebar and remesh and cutting the control cracks in the right places and depth.

Not sure how much fill you used or if it is heated, but around here it is easy to get a 95% compaction rate on top of clay even with some fill on top but the clay underneath is still subject to freeze thaw action.

 

[hellothere123]

Should not be. Just plumb out side edge and which ever edge you choose 90 degrees from outside edge. Have several building here with power poles and no problem to plumb.

I’m looking for more info on this idea. The poles taper off towards the top and I’ve been told that we’ll have to use 2x4 to get top edge plumb.
Can you give me a better idea what you mean? Do you mean the pole itself won’t be 100% straight but the edge will be?