polyurethane insulation vs cellulose spray

[Cas]

I am going to insulate in my shop this year. It
is 50X50X16ft(Pole barn construction). I priced
polyurethane and cellulose with adhesive and
boric acid. It will be sprayed on metal siding.
I would like at least a 20 year life for the
product and building. The cellulose is much more
cost effective. Does anybody have any helpful
comments or particular products they like?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Polyurethane foam insulation will seal the building, preventing any air from flowing through the walls/ceiling. If the air can't move, it can't take your heat along with it. The extra cost for polyurethane will be returned in 3-4 years in the savings in heating or cooling cost. Now that's cost effective!

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have attended Doug Rye's energy forums sponsored by Carroll County Electric, he suggests cellulose. You may check out his column at www.ecark.org

 

[Spook]

What kind of cost for the poly? I am thinking of insulating my barn, and I would like to know what to expect for cost.

 

[Dusty MI]

I run 2x4's horizontal on 24" centers so the inside edge is flush with the inside of the posts. Then use 6 1/2" thick x 24 wide fiber glass bats. Then sheet with 7/16" OSB. It works very well and if you have the time you can do it your self.

Dusty

 

[old1850d]

of all the jobs ive been on the foam out performs cell. all the time depending on the density you use it is by far a superior product worth the extra money

 

[T_Bone]

Hi Cas,

The first thing I would do is a on-site flame test. Dig a hole, add wood too start a fire, then add your insulation of choice, observe smoke.

Polyurethane insulation: thick black smoke that will quickly fill a room.

Closed foam cell insulation costs more and is the highest R rated but will loose two R-values over time.

My neighbor did the external polyurethane roof insulation thing. The birds pecked holes on the roof constantly.

My roofer buddy, 30yrs plus, says foam roofs are the most expensive too find leaks on as each part of the roof must be dye checked. Very slow and time consuming.

T_Bone

 

[504-2]

The thing about no air kinda scares me I helped tear down a house that was wraped with plastic back in the 80s, health dept condemned the place when they found black mold,there was no air moving and no moister either.

 

[Martinfan]

I have my 50x40 pole barn insulated with 3" polyurathane insulation on the steel walls, and 3 1/2" fiberglass bookcased on 24"oc studs horizontal, with 7/16" osb board finishing on inside. NO air infiltration on walls, but have enough circulation through doors, mold and moisture is not a problem. Always seem to be opening a door for something. Ceiling insulation is most critical though, and would suggest if you can afford, spray it also, with fiberglass overlay on top of it also.

 

[Martinfan]

Thought I'd add, it cost approx. $1.25/sq. ft/inch blown, but well worth cost, in Central Illinois, and rapists, such as Thermogas dealers for LP gas.