portable bandsaw blade?

[RalphWD45]

I bought a central electric portaband, at Harbor Freght 8 yrs ago, and it still works ok, if I could get good blades for it. My HF store, in Lacey Wa. quit stocking the blades. Needing to do some fabrication, for the seat on my AC B, and wanting to get started, on the project, I went in today and bought their current brand of portaband (Bauer). The saw came without a blade, and it had to be purchased seperately. After muddling around, trying to make up my mind, I bought 2 different blades, hoping that one of them might last long enough, for my project. I mostly cut 2, and 1.5, angle iron, and 1/4 bar stock. I have never looked to see how many teeth-per-inch, I was using, but the new blades are marked with TPI. They have them from 14 TPI, to 28 TPI. What do I need to use for mild steel?

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

14 TPI

 

[JoeM(GA)]

I have a Milwaukee saw like that, used to use the HF blades, but they cheapened them up and the dont cut good. Home Depot sells the real Milwaukee blades for a fair price. Double check the blade measurements and just pick up some there

 

[Bill Tattersall]

I have a Rockwell Porta Band that I use nothing but Milwaukee blades on that I get at Lowes. They last a long time. In addition I periodically, when I'm cutting, put a lubricant on the blade. I use Chem-Trend 140 stick wax.

 

[mtf]

The thinner the material is you are cutting, the more teeth you want. Thicker material fewer teeth.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I have a portable bandsaw, 120 inch

Blade.
I have a place in town that makes blades. Any kind you want any thickness.
Harden steel will damage the teeth on the blades I use.
I think I could get one made that stands up to harden steel. I use 14 TPI.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The rule of thumb I'm aware of is that you want a minimum of 3 teeth in contact with the metal at all times for best results.

If you're cutting angle or flat bar on edge the thickness is more important than the width. 1/8" thick metal, you should shoot for 24tpi.

You can get away with fewer teeth but the saw will jump and bounce more, and the blades won't last as long.

Harbor Freight still has a portable band saw. It's a higher end one than the old Chicago Electric. I think it's "Bauer" but it uses the same size blades and they stock those.

According to Harbor Freight's website they are not in stock in Lacey, but they are in the Lakewood store.

 

[markct]

I have a harbor freight portaband from 20 years ago, uses the same blades as Milwaukee, dewalt, greenlee and the new harbor freight saws

 

[RalphWD45]

Thanks guys! That was the stuff I needed to hear. If Barnyard engineering, is correct, then I may also get my old Chicago Electric, back in action.

 

[DR. EVIL]

You guys should spend your money on an EVOLUTION RAGE 2 cold cutoff saw, similar to a 14 inch wood/plastic miter saw except lower speed and higher torque. I bought a used Off-shore made 4x6 bandsaw years and years ago. Typical China crap, could NOT make it cut square, machined incorrectly, had to shim every piece of steel into the vice to hold squareness, then as the set of the teeth on the blade wore every cut became more of an educated guess. Then it started popping the blades off the wheels, even new blades wouldn't stay on.
SON called, He drove by EVOLUTIONS US headquarters twice a day in northwest Davnport, Iowa, going to/from work, Menard's had the Rage 2 on introductory sale for $199.95. I bought mine the next day. IT is dead nuts accurate! Makes perfectly square burr-free weld ready cuts every time. I HIGHLY suggest wearing safety glasses AND a full coverage face shield, the little chips it makes are sharp and hot. I also recommend earphone, noise suppression style, something that covers your whole ear, the saw isn't noisey, but a razor sharp red hot steel chip isn't something you want in tour ear.
I imagine a portaband saw is the right tool for a job but I sure haven't found the need to do that job yet. I've used a variable speed JIGSAW with a extremely good LENOX blade very capable in my metal working projects. My old cheap ROCKWELL saber saw got so hot cutting steel several times I had to wear welding gloves to hold onto it. A cheap throw-away saber saw and Buck a-piece blades always get the job done. I tried my SAWZ-All once, terrible to control, like trying to drive short tiny finishing nails with a 16# sledge hammer.

 

[Hdonly]

My "go to" tool for anything up to 4".