Saw blade question

I have a Craftsman bandsaw that I use for cutting steel. I used to get new blades from a local supplier that had a role of the stuff and would just cut 60 inches then weld the ends together. Also I am worried that the blade does not stay to the top of the large two pulleys and that causes it to break. Anyone know of a place for 60 inch sawblades? Just use it to cut angle iron and square tubing. Should I look for a bimetal blade? How many teeth per inch?
 
(quoted from post at 17:50:47 07/21/23) I have a Craftsman bandsaw that I use for cutting steel. I used to get new blades from a local supplier that had a role of the stuff and would just cut 60 inches then weld the ends together. Also I am worried that the blade does not stay to the top of the large two pulleys and that causes it to break. Anyone know of a place for 60 inch sawblades? Just use it to cut angle iron and square tubing. Should I look for a bimetal blade? How many teeth per inch?
earch ebay for 60" band saw blades and you'll find all the help you want. And yes, you want bi metal blades for steel.
 
Concerning your blade the way it runs on the top pulley - you need to adjust the tracking to get it to run on the center. If you have the manual it will tell you how to do that. If not seems like most Craftsman stuff has a manual on line you can get.
 
60 is a common size. You should be able order them online anywhere. I would get a bi-metal blade that was between 18 and 24 teeth per inch.
 
The 1/2 inch Lenox Diemaster II that Jim links to is an excellent choice. I lucked into a bunch of 20 ft blades in a metal salvage yard. Brand new 10-14 tpi. I use 93-1/2 inch on my bandsaw, so I can get my local sawblade place to cut and weld two out of every 20' length. Works really well on the kind of cutting you are describing. Not so well on sheet metal unless I have a piece of plywood under it. I've cut 1-1/2 inch plate with it. steve
 
Are your wheels bare, with a crown in them, or raised edge with a rubber tire on them? If they are raised edge without the tire, it would explain why the blades are walking off. Is there a screwdriver slot on the back, opposite the upper wheel? That adjusts the tracking. Screw it in, or out a little at a time until the blade is running in the center. Make sure your guides are set way back before you do this, and once centered, adjust your guide bearings to just touch the back of the blade while running. More info? my email is open. steve
 

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