Post coolant flush Ford3000 '67

[Windytractor]

G'day folks.. I'm just getting into the old tractor world and loving it. I just drained and flushed the cooling system on my '67 Ford 3000 3cyl diesel. After closing the drains on both the rad (lower left) and block (right side in front of starter), I filled the rad and started it. No coolant seems to flow out of the rad and back into the engine. I ran it long enough to get the thermostat open but not long enough to cook. Tons of crud came out of the hoses and drains when I flushed it. Even a hose straight into the hose leading to water pump seemed to refuse any flow. Am doing something wrong or could the pump be crudded up or failed some how? Thanks for your input lads and ladies.

 

[showcrop]

try continuing to slowly add water while running. It is most likely not yet full.

 

[Indiana Ken]

Water cannot flow until the thermostat opens. I do not how one can know the thermostat is open - how do you know the thermostat is open? I have had thermostats seal
tight enough to create a air lock that prevents water from reaching the thermostat - the air lock blocks the water. Since the heated coolant water does not contact
the thermostat; opening is delayed. You might try removing the thermostat and then check the system for coolant flow.

I like to drill a small hole (1/8) in the thermostat flange to provide a bypass. In this manner the thermostat can better sense the water temperature. Note: some
thermostats already have the hole; in this case another one is not required.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 08:08:20 06/01/23) Water cannot flow until the thermostat opens. I do not how one can know the thermostat is open - how do you know the thermostat is open? I have had thermostats seal
tight enough to create a air lock that prevents water from reaching the thermostat - the air lock blocks the water. Since the heated coolant water does not contact
the thermostat; opening is delayed. You might try removing the thermostat and then check the system for coolant flow.

I like to drill a small hole (1/8) in the thermostat flange to provide a bypass. In this manner the thermostat can better sense the water temperature. Note: some
thermostats already have the hole; in this case another one is not required.

Every one that I have bought in a long time has had a hole. It not only allows a little water to pass but also allows air to come up through as the coolant is added at the top of the radiator, so it is not necessary for the T'stat to open, provided that the hole is there.

 

[used red MN]

If the tractor is not doing any work it may not circulate
the water to the extent you are expecting especially
since it is a smaller diesel. If the coolant reaches the
temperature to open the thermostat it may only open
the thermostat an 1/8 inch then the coolant that was
down lower rises or flows up and cools the engine
down. Cooler coolant is always available to come
into the bottom of the engine from the radiator. Once
that cooler coolant reaches the thermostat it closes it
again.

 

[Windytractor]

Right on. Thanks for the replies. I'm give those suggestions a try. Problem is there's no coolant in the block at all since the flush. Zero fluid made it's way from the rad down to the block since refilling the radiator. Ill keep working at it and post the results. Cheers