Power King Carb update

[RedMF40]

I just replaced the carb on my Power King with a new one. The old one was dumping fuel out of the bowl, and one flange was broken--something I discovered while removing it. This seemed like a faster solution than taking the old one apart and cleaning and troubleshooting, etc. And it was only $25, shipping included. I may end up looking at the old one anyway.

The new carb doesn't leak and the tractor runs smoothly. But it only starts with a whiff of carb cleaner sprayed into the throttle body. But the main problem is this:

The throttle speed control lever on the dash has no effect on the carb. The cable acts on some lever, maybe the governor, which is then attached to the throttle plate. I can get the motor to idle down nicely but I have to have my hand on the carb itself, opening and closing the throttle plate. If I let go, the butterfly either closes and the motor dies, or it goes to WOT.

Can you Power King people tell if my throttle linkage looks normal? This is how the tractor came to me and I should add that with the old carb I could vaguely control engine speed but it never idled down to anything approaching a normal idle. I'd say it was at least half throttle, maybe higher. I looked at the PDF of my owner's manual but didn't see anything helpful.

Thanks for any thoughts. I attached a couple of pics of the carb and linkage.
Gerrit

 

[wore out]

I just replaced the carb on my Power King with a new one. The old one was dumping fuel out of the bowl, and one flange was broken--something I discovered while removing it. This seemed like a faster solution than taking the old one apart and cleaning and troubleshooting, etc. And it was only $25, shipping included. I may end up looking at the old one anyway.

The new carb doesn't leak and the tractor runs smoothly. But it only starts with a whiff of carb cleaner sprayed into the throttle body. But the main problem is this:

The throttle speed control lever on the dash has no effect on the carb. The cable acts on some lever, maybe the governor, which is then attached to the throttle plate. I can get the motor to idle down nicely but I have to have my hand on the carb itself, opening and closing the throttle plate. If I let go, the butterfly either closes and the motor dies, or it goes to WOT.

Can you Power King people tell if my throttle linkage looks normal? This is how the tractor came to me and I should add that with the old carb I could vaguely control engine speed but it never idled down to anything approaching a normal idle. I'd say it was at least half throttle, maybe higher. I looked at the PDF of my owner's manual but didn't see anything helpful.

Thanks for any thoughts. I attached a couple of pics of the carb and linkage.
Gerrit

It's NOT a "Power King" issue, it's a Kohler issue!

You have your old carb, correct? With the throttle butterfly "closed" on both carbs, note where the throttle lever on each carb is pointing.

You new carb, likely from "The Land of Almost Right" has a throttle lever that that points in a direction that is FAR from "almost Right"!

Also, the position of the governor arm on the governor shaft and the length of the throttle linkage MAY need to be adjusted once you get a "better" new carb, the procedure is in Section 6 of the Service Manual linked below. (I may have previously posted the link for you?)

https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

 

[kencombs]

I just replaced the carb on my Power King with a new one. The old one was dumping fuel out of the bowl, and one flange was broken--something I discovered while removing it. This seemed like a faster solution than taking the old one apart and cleaning and troubleshooting, etc. And it was only $25, shipping included. I may end up looking at the old one anyway.

The new carb doesn't leak and the tractor runs smoothly. But it only starts with a whiff of carb cleaner sprayed into the throttle body. But the main problem is this:

The throttle speed control lever on the dash has no effect on the carb. The cable acts on some lever, maybe the governor, which is then attached to the throttle plate. I can get the motor to idle down nicely but I have to have my hand on the carb itself, opening and closing the throttle plate. If I let go, the butterfly either closes and the motor dies, or it goes to WOT.

Can you Power King people tell if my throttle linkage looks normal? This is how the tractor came to me and I should add that with the old carb I could vaguely control engine speed but it never idled down to anything approaching a normal idle. I'd say it was at least half throttle, maybe higher. I looked at the PDF of my owner's manual but didn't see anything helpful.

Thanks for any thoughts. I attached a couple of pics of the carb and linkage.
Gerrit

First of all, make sure that with the engine off and the throttle lever in run position the carb throttle should be held wide open by the governor linkage.

Then post a pic of the old carb throttle lever and the cable control hook up.

 

[RedMF40]

Thanks for the replies. As mentioned, this was an issue before I installed the new carb in that I only had a vague adjustment for engine speed. I could throttle up to get more power but never get it down to idle speed. I’ll check back after I look things over again.
Gerrit

 

[Farmall m farmer]

On my Briggs and Stratton engines when that happens it’s almost always that the governor spring is to tight

 

[Fritz Maurer]

There is no way the governor can open the throttle. The ball joint needs to be about 90 degrees to the left.

Take the throttle shaft out of your old carb and see if it fits in there.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

DISREGARD MY PREVIOUS POST. The ball joint should be above the high speed needle at idle , thus:

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If it needs ether to start, make certain that the choke cable is adjusted to close the choke all the way.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

The carb you have on it now is for an M18 twin, not a K model.

 

[RedMF40]

Thanks. Here are both carbs side by side. They are both at WOT. Not very easy to tell what’s going on in the photo, but the linkage would be in a different place on both carbs.

 

[RedMF40]

The carb you have on it now is for an M18 twin, not a K model. View attachment 102110

I’ll dig into my old carb and see if I can get things straightened out with it. Tried the “easy route” and as is often the case just made things harder. Tractor runs, just can’t idle down.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

The governor link should never pass over the center line of the throttle shaft. You can see the original carb has the link positioned so that full throw in both directions is always behind the throttle shaft. The governor pushes towards the carb to idle. With the link on the wrong side of the shaft it works backwards and actually opens the throttle, hence your runaway.

 

[RedMF40]

The governor link should never pass over the center line of the throttle shaft. You can see the original carb has the link positioned so that full throw in both directions is always behind the throttle shaft. The governor pushes towards the carb to idle. With the link on the wrong side of the shaft it works backwards and actually opens the throttle, hence your runaway.

Thanks, you’ve answered my original question.

 

[RedMF40]

The governor link should never pass over the center line of the throttle shaft. You can see the original carb has the link positioned so that full throw in both directions is always behind the throttle shaft. The governor pushes towards the carb to idle. With the link on the wrong side of the shaft it works backwards and actually opens the throttle, hence your runaway.

I took my old carb apart, cleaned it and blew it out. Some loose rust in the bottom of the bowl. Put it back on and ran the tractor for a few minutes. Starts and runs normally and no leaks. Thanks for your help, saved me a lot of time.
Gerrit

@Fritz Maurer