powewrtrol jd 60

[Anonymous-0]

I recently rebuilt a rw10 jd disc. When i hooked up the remotes and try to raise the disc the hose would blow out of the remote, the coupler is new. New energy cylinder and hoses.
I think that I need to rebuild the power-trol then when it does not blow out the disc will not stay up. It will leak right back down.
How much of a job to re-oring the power-trol?
Thanks for you suggestions.

 

[John179]

It might be just as easy to buy a good used one. If one off a JD 70 will work I have two of them and am willing to part with one of them.

 

[THOMASJOHN]

john,
where are you located?

 

[F-I-T]

Thomas:

I'm not sure how you might have things plumbed, or if someone has been shimming the relief valve springs, but at the stock 1100-1200 psi or so, it should not blow hoses, and it should lift that disk just fine.

Could post some photos of what you have going on there? How large is the cylinder? A standard 3" bore, 8" stroke should be what's called for.

Do you have a gauge that can indicate the system operating pressure?

When it leaks down after raising, do you lose any of the oil into the rear end, or does it just sink with no oil loss? Do you have the same problems when using the rockshaft? When you say the coupler is new, are you using Pioneer type couplers out the side of the unit, or does the original Powr-Trol plug type coupler pop out of the pin retaining clamp? If Pioneer, are you using the selector valve in the upoper port, and if so, is it adjusted to the proper setting for cylinder versus rockshaft?

You may want to check and adjust the metering screw (tall hex cap nut on the left side of the Powr-Trol unit). For remote cylinder operation, it should be screwed all the way in, though most folks find a happy medium so that you don't have to change this when going from rockshaft to cylinder and back again. But this could be your problem.

 

[THOMASJOHN]

F-I-T

I was sold a 3 X 10 1/4 cynlinder with 1 1/4 rod from Agri-supply.
Only oil lost is when the hose would come off.
I checked the oil psi and had to remove one of the shims to get pressure into correct range.
Original Power-trol plugs are being used.
Metering screw is all the way in on the left side and the back
The rock shaft will do the same way as the remotes.

 

[F-I-T]

Ok, so a '60' should have a working pressure of 930 psi, with a relief valve pressure between 1170 ad 1210. When you checked the pr4essure, did you use a gate valve in a line looped from one plug port to the other, then slowly close the valve to check the relief valve opening pressure? When you do that, with the lever in the raise position, and as you close the valve, you should get the lever to kick return to neutral as well. Does that occur?

It sounds as though there might be more than one problem, what with the inability to consistently lift the load, and the blowing out of the port plugs. Have you checked that the retaining pins are locking the plugs into the housing completely? It could be that the pressures are normal and that the plugs are just slipping the retaining pins.

A 3" cylinder is the correct bore, and should have no troubles lifting that disk.

Gotta run for a bit, but post back what you know, and if it ever worked correctly, any history, etc.

 

[THOMASJOHN]

F-I-T
Can the power-trol be taken off without taken off the rockshaft, I understand from the service manual that this can be done. I'm going to re-do pressure test and watch for the release lever to kick to the neutral position.

 

[F-I-T]

>>>Can the power-trol be taken off without taken off the rockshaft, I understand from the service manual that this can be done. >>>

Yes, you can remove the P-trol unit at the cost of one gasket.

 

[THOMASJOHN]

Hey F-I-T,
Today I took off the power-trol unit I found that the unit did not have much oil to drain, it could have been low because of the hose blowing off. I found that the bottom check valve was not right. The ball closest to the plug was not under the spring. I put it where it suppose to be and tighten the plug back ,checked the upper it was ok. Also the back o-ring on the bottom coupling was missing, this must be what I saw the other day. Going tommorrow to pick up another o-ring.
I could also see on the inside of the unit it looked like that something had been rubbing a little bit.
F-I-T
The Rockshaft assembly fill plug, when open it overed flowed a bit could this be where the oil from powertrol be going.
Thanks for all of your help so far.
Tommy

 

[F-I-T]

Get ready for the most "funnest" activity I have ever experienced in a two-cylinder...replacing those o-rings. Buy extras so that you don't have to crawl under the workbench when you drop one and it rolls away. Be sure to replace both o-rings in each port, for a total of four. They get hard over the years and are not spongy enough to seal against the plug. The old ones will probably be a pain to get out. I generally get them to break using a dental pick.

I was going to suggest looking at the check valves next, but you beat me to it.

Once you get those o-rings replaced, you should be getting close to having the unit operate correctly. You'll probably want to recheck the pressures then.

 

[THOMASJOHN]

Het F-I-T,
Thanks for all the help with the power-trol
Got new spring in check valve today, o-ring in the coupler and a new gasket on for the unit. Ran pressure test and had to use only one shim to bring in the pressure to correct range. no leaks and the disc picks up just fine.
Thanks again, Tommy from SC