Problems starting a TO 30

[jtruck618]

Hi all, I have a 1951(according to serial#) TO30 which was passed down to me from my grandpa. I went to start it this spring and it wouldn't start. The battery needed replaced, which I did, but it still would not start. I believed it wasn't getting fuel so I started checking the line from the tank to carb. I did find some stuff in the fuel line, but not sure what it was since it fell out on the ground. Looked like some rust or a bug... I started checking the carb and eventually removed it. The carb was dry inside so I figured there was still no fuel getting to it. I took it apart, cleaned it real well, blew it out with compressed air and put it back on. Still, wouldn't start. I removed the drain plug from the bottom of the carb and gas ran out. So, I knew it was getting fuel but thought something still may be clogged in the carb. Removed it again, cleaned it, etc. Put it back on and wouldn't start. I removed the tube which runs from the air cleaner and sprayed some starting fluid inside. It turned over, but died. I did this several more times and it wouldn't stay running. I read alot on this site but I'm still unable to fix it. I by no means am a mechanic and know hardly nothing about carbs. What should I check next? I have no idea what the needle deal does on the carb. Float works fine and I understand what it does. The inside looks good. I removed the neck part which takes fuel from the line to carb and cleaned it real well. There isn't a screen in it as many here have mentioned. Hope someone can help me out. Might be something simple I'm missing. Thanks all.

 

[Catysammy]

You mentioned that when you thought you had gas coming to the carb that there was no gas in the bottom of the carb! Even though the float seems to be working fine the tiny needle valve the float works to turn the gas on and off in the carb may be sticking in the closed position. sometimes you can gently work with the little valve and seat and get it to free up, but most of the times you will need to replace it with a carb kit. Good Luck

 

[phil(va)]

Since you sprayed into the intake and got it to fire but wouldn't stay running, that pretty much tells you the electrical side is working and your problem is in fuel. Since the carb is pretty dry that tells you the problem is upstream of the carb. You have a blockage somewhere between the gas tank and the carb. Could be in the tank, or could be the filter at the top of the sediment bowl which sticks into the tank, or could be in the line to the carb. Since tractor has been sitting, I'd suggest rust or gum in the tank or line is your main problem (not that other things couldn't also be contributing).

 

[Jeff-oh]

Have you verified the plugs are clean and you have a big fat white spark? A weak spark can ignite either but not gas.

To check out the fuel supply here is how I do it.

1st: Do you have ennough gas in the tank? The fuel tubes are set to leave a reserve. As you said is sat over winter, it is possible that the fuel leaked down to the top of the tube and you are not really getting enough gas.

Assuming you have checked this, Disconnect the line at the carb elbow. Then open the fuel valve. It should be a free and solid stream of fuel and form an inch or more "Fountain" If the line does that then you know your ok up stream. If not chase it up the line. The lines are usually ok. the next step is to pull the fuel bowl and turn on the gas it should flow freely there also. If not, I have had the intake tubes get clogged with sedimatte and copper oxide. So pull the top section and clean.

Once you know you have good fuel flow at the carb inlet. Pull the carb's inlet elbow and check the fuel filter screen located in the carb. If you found sedimate in the line it is likely this fuel screen is also clogged.

If that is clear, pull the carb's drain plug, hook the fuel line back up and turn on the fuel. verify the fuel flows strongly out this plug for at least a quart of fuel. (Just want to make sure you are not fooling yourself by watching the bowl reserve drain and calling that good)

 

[Mark from the Fort]

Is she still a 6 volter???
If so, try jumping her with a 12 volt battery and see if the extra voltage makes her fire and run.
REMEMBER to keep the same orientation with the jumper cables as she is not--in otherwords, if she is still a 6 volt Positive ground....then you place positive from 12 v jumper battery on a ground (radius rod) and put the negative from the jumper battery on the post of the starter.
She will turn over like a "son-of-a-gun"
Remember to turn key to ON position.
Do not crank her very long as you can toast the starter.
The 6 volt systems can be a pain, but are pretty cool in my book.
If this arrangement starts and runs, then you most likely need to take all ground connections (starting at battery & dash) and remove, wire brush and reinstall.
**If you are currently 12 volts, then disregard this post.**

 

[Anonymous-0]

Did you put fresh gas in it ?
Some times , like was mentioned , the needle and seat will stick shut . These things have no fuel pump . Just gravity . Sometimes , just tapping on the carb with the handle of a screwdriver will free it up .
Neighbor was half nuts with a old ford motor home that wouldn't start . Same symptoms as yours . I tapped on carb , and it started . We had a good laugh on that one .
Good luck

 

[Anonymous-0]

Well, I tried several things you guys mentioned and still won't start. So, I ordered a carb kit and hopefully that solves the problem. However, another problem arose while trying to start it. It has a key added to it along with a toggle switch. Both needed to be "on" for the tractor to run. Believe my grandpa added the key in fear of someone stealing it. The key box started smoking and burned up while trying to start it. So now I need to replace it. Or, would it be easier to just use the toggle switch as on/off. A wiring diagram would be helpful. Any ideas where I could find one. Thanks...