PS Fluid

[dobaroy]

On our 3600 gasser, is there any way to check the power steering fluid level and is there a special PS fluid or can you use just ordinary automotive PS fluid? Thanks in advance.

 

[TimInd]

I use New Holland #134 fluid in the hydraulics,
trans, and power steering in my '74 2000 (NOT IN THE
ENGINE). Makes life a little easier and all
components have worked fine for 15+ years.

 

[Fordfarmer]

as far as checking the level, just open the
cap...fluid should be right there.

 

[Sean in PA]

As Fordfarmer said, the proper level is just to the inside of the filler neck.

You can use just about any oils of the proper weight, ATF, UTF, automotive P/S fluid, but it's best not to mix fluids of different types, so unless you know what's in there, it's probably best to drain as much as you can of what's in there and fill it with all of one kind. If it's new to you and you don't know the history of the tractor, it's probably a good idea to replace the filter as well, and that way you'll be pulling the reservoir housing off to change the filter so you'll be able to get even more of the old fluid out.

Most folks use a UTF that meets the Ford/New Holland M2C134D spec. as that's what you use in the trans and rear end as well and it's easier to keep just one type of fluid on hand and it helps avoid cross contamination of different fluid types.

 

[dobaroy]

Thanks guys for the replies. Can someone explain how we get to the filter for the PS because at this point I think we should change the filter and the fluid cause we do not know what fluid is in there now.

 

[Sean in PA]

That pump has the reservoir integrated into the housing of the pump. The filter is inside the reservoir. If you open the filler cap you should see the filter. Here is a link to the parts diagram for the pump:

3600 p/s pump parts breakdown

To replace the filter, it's best to remove the pump from the tractor and work on it on your workbench. First disconnect the 2 hydraulic lines from the pump and let things drain as much as they will with the lines disconnected. Then remove the bolts from the front of the front engine cover that hold the pump in place and then remove the pump and hold it with the filler hole facing down over your drain pan to drain as much as possible. Then take it to your workbench and with the end of the reservoir that originally face the rear of the tractor facing up, remove the long bolt on the end of the reservoir, part labeled 32 in the diagram. Then the reservoir housing can be remove by prying it off. Be gentle so you don't damage the housing. Sometimes you need to hold the pump end in a fiber jawed vice to get the leverage you need to pry it off.

The filter is the part labeled 24 in the diagram, which was originally part number EDPN3K758A, which has been superseded by part number 84536381. You should also replace the o-ring, part labeled 23, original part number D7NN3D587A superseded by part number 83911588.

 

[souNdguy]

as others said. just about any 10 to 30w oil engine included, atf, ps oil. even straight hyd oil. utf.. etc.. will work.

 

[Sean in PA]

You should get yourself a service manual if you're going to be working on your tractor. I&T FO-41 is the proper aftermarket service manual for your tractor and you can get one from the hosts of this forum for under $30.00:

[u:7b3997cf25]I&T FO-41 Aftermarket Service Manaul[/u:7b3997cf25]

 

[dobaroy]

Thanks Sean for all the help and for the part number for the Service Manual.

 

[sotxbill]

Be really careful when you tighten the bolt that holds the reservoir on as it will strip out the aluminum in a heart beat...

 

[dobaroy]

Thanks sotxbill, that's good to know, and thanks again to everyone for their input.