Pto adapter

[4020deereboy]

From my earlier post about a 540 rpm baler with thousand
rpm gear box could I just use a 1000 to 540 adapter to get
the speed where it needs to be

 

[Craig C]

Don't exactly understand your question. Is your baler 540 or 1000? If it is a Deere baler, you can flip the gearbox and change the side shaft and CV coupler if you need to switch. I did mine in the spring to take it from 540 to 1000 so it could be used with a large frame deere that was 1000 only. I don't suggest using a 540 baler at half speed on a big tractor to get 540. It won't work. your 200hp tractor won't pull your baler as good as an 85hp at only half engine speed. Not to mention your ground speed will be so slow you'll be in nearly road gear, and then run out of power climbing a hill. I have heard of people doing it and getting away with it, but I tried it and regrouped. I push to get 30 rolls an hour, and am very picky about how the bales look. If you can get your fingers in the end of the bale, it's not tight enough, but that has more to do with the rake you use than the baler when it comes to the corners. Perfect windrows have a better chance of perfect bales.

 

[paul]

Don't see your previous post in the first 2 pages?

You say the baler is a 540 rpm, but somewhere there is a 1000rpm gearbox?

What speed is your tractor, and where is this gearbox?

Think we need a little more info, somethings not clear.

If you have a 540 baler and a 100 tractor, it is possible to use an adaptor and run the tractor at 1/2 throttle.

Long term there are problems with this:

a round baler tend to take enough power that the tractor may be a little weak at 1/2 throttle

it will be tempting or can accidentally happen that you use full throttle and will start throwing parts all over the field as you shred the baler with too much speed and power

Those adaptors don't hold up well to that much power and abuse tend to fall apart on a regular basis


But - not sure what you have or what way you want to adapt 1000 and 540. Some balers you can swap the gearcase in it end for end and it will work 540 one way, 1000 the other way?

--->Paul

 

[farmer steve]

Based on your previous posts I assume you already have the correct spline going from the tractor to the baler. You mentioned previously the baler was running too slow. One guy mentioned checking the main drive belt to see if that"s slipping. If that"s not the case then I assume your baler has a 1000 gear box with a 540 splined shaft. The only way to get your 4020 to run that is to change out the gear unit in your 4020 so it runs at 1000 and if need be change out your baler pto shaft to match the 1000 spline. there"s just no way to over rev your 4020 enough to make that pto spin fast enough. A standard JD shop manual will explain how to change your rear output to spin at 1000. And the other post about running a big 1000rpm tractor with a 540 implement is incorrect. I just did that with a jd 5020 and a 849 round baler. I ran the tractor at 1150 rpm in 5th gear on hilly ground. The non turbo big diesel had no prob and sipped fuel. Worked way better than my 4010. Oh, and that adapter does nothing but change the spline. the tractor will still only spin at 540rpm.

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 12:01:41 10/12/11) The only way to get your 4020 to run that is to change out the gear unit in your 4020 so it runs at 1000 and if need be change out your baler pto shaft to match the 1000 spline. Oh, and that adapter does nothing but change the spline. the tractor will still only spin at 540rpm.

Steve
Changing a 4020 from 540 rpm pto to a 1000 rpm pto is as simple as changing the stub shafts IE no gears required as they are already in the tractor. Only exception is if it was a 4020 optioned with 1000 rpm pto only which was available but I've never seen .

 

[Deere Scotty]

How old is the baler? If you have all Your other equipment at 540; then I would look at changing the gearbox on the baler to 540. There is probably a salvage baler out there somewhere.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If I remember your previous post correctly, you seemed to have a baler with a 1000 rpm gearbox but someone had put a 540 shaft on it. The best choice is to swap to the correct shaft on the baler. Probably would only need to change the yoke on the tractor end. An adapter would work instead but you will need to extend your tractor drawbar a few inches to keep the u joint angles correct on the telescoping shaft. For safety, you should also fabricate some shielding to cover the exposed shaft. You also could run into some problems with the PTO shaft whipping if the adapter does not fit snugly, thats why changing to the correct shaft on the baler is a better choice.

 

[Craig C]

Yes a natural aspirated engine with 531ci would have more torque at 1150rpm than a 466 trying to breath with no turbo boost at low rpms. It might work for you, but I'm going to bale at 7+mph if the ground will allow and it takes more HP and torque than you can create while running 1/2 engine speed. Not to mention your fan and waterpump is turning slower. This leads to hotter oil, water temp, and even poor AC performance in already hot and dusty conditions. There't one other thing that I would think of at the end of the day with hot hydraulic oil, trans lube pressure.

 

[4020deereboy]

I can swap the shaft on the tractor as my 4020 has 540 and 1000 rpm shafts its obvious to me that somebody has just put the wrong shaft on the tractor end of baler so I wanted to just use one of those adapters to get the 1000 rpm to the baler

 

[Don-Wi]

If you lengthen the shaft, you'll be making all sorts of noise going around corners, and could potentially cause damage.

If you don't have any other 1000 RPM equipment, I would consider changing the gearbox around, as I think most can either be turned end for end, or swap the gears around inside. Even our Gehl 72 green chopper can have the gears swapped to run at 1000 RPM. Would then need to swap out the yoke on the end.

I would either change yokes on the PTO shaft so it's right, or change the gear box to make it right. I would never run one of those adapters for 1000 to 540.

Donovan from Wisconsin

 

[Nate V. IA]

I would think that changing the yoke would be cheaper than buying the adapter. Most farm stores have all the parts you would need.
Nate