Pulling sleeves

[kenbob]

Here is a pic. I am tending to agree with loose snap ring. There was one loose but not on that piston. I am guessing Maybe they took it apart again after and put in a snap ring.

 

[kenbob]

Here is a pic. I was liking the wrist pin idea, as they had snap wring loose on another piston. But the gouge should be 90 degrees form the crank and it is about 70.

 

[Duner Wi]

Piece is snap ring escaped and got stuck in rings. You should have found remeants . My guess.

 

[JOCCO]

It would be a long list. One wrist pin snap ring not seated correctily, No 4 rod bearing was not put on right. It spun and the cap was loose enough to wiggle after. Replaced rod bearings but not the mains, still discovering stuff.

Last time (2 times) I dealt with that I went to bare block and started over. It worked for me.

 

[JOCCO]

Here is a pic. I was liking the wrist pin idea, as they had snap wring loose on another piston. But the gouge should be 90 degrees form the crank and it is about 70.

Hard for me to tell but looking at that = new sleeve

 

[scootergmc]

Eerk. That's a problem.

 

[kenbob]

The current snap ring is intact. No parts missing out of the piston rings. What ever happened was repaired (except the sleeve). I am going to try to pull, but not going to force it as in Scooter's picture above. THanks all for the input.

 

[scootergmc]

The current snap ring is intact. No parts missing out of the piston rings. What ever happened was repaired (except the sleeve). I am going to try to pull, but not going to force it as in Scooter's picture above. THanks all for the input.

My method has a 100% success rate.

 

[kenbob]

Ha ha!

 

[JOCCO]

The current snap ring is intact. No parts missing out of the piston rings. What ever happened was repaired (except the sleeve). I am going to try to pull, but not going to force it as in Scooter's picture above. THanks all for the input.

Ken, My opinon here Proper way to pull most sleeves is with a proper sleeve puller. They are not cheap so rent one or get a local mechanic. Next when you put the piston in put rubber hose on the rod bolts to minimize the possibility of scoring the new sleeve.

 

[kenbob]

yep

 

[rustred]

yep

Putting rubber hose on the rod bolts is to not mark the crank journal.

 

[kenbob]

Eureka! The sleeve is out, without Scooter's result. I use the tractor for work about 20 hrs a year and tractor rides. I wanted to change it as I don't want to be the guy on the tractor ride with the smokiest tractor. I could not find a sleeve puller to rent, so I decided to try and make a puller and if it moved fine, and if not I would leave it. It took a $7 piece of threaded rod, a piece of 3/4" plywood on the bottom end and a u made out of 4x4 and 1x2s plus washers and nuts. It came out without much drama. The hole needs a little clean up, but it is pretty clean for an old tractor. Thanks all for the info and encouragement.

 

[scootergmc]

If it came out with a plywood puller you probably could've tapped it from the bottom with a wooden dowel and it would've popped right out too. I'm jealous.

 

[kenbob]

I tried tapping it from the bottom with a wooden hammer handle. I couldn't really get it to move but I could feel the sleeve vibrate so I figure it couldn't be totally welded in. I was worried by doing it that way only tapping 1 end it might get cockeyed. So I made the puller.

 

[JOCCO]

I tried tapping it from the bottom with a wooden hammer handle. I couldn't really get it to move but I could feel the sleeve vibrate so I figure it couldn't be totally welded in. I was worried by doing it that way only tapping 1 end it might get cockeyed. So I made the puller.

That is good news, most sleeves will pull. Dry sleeves can be a nightmare and there is always that problem one!

 

[Gary Mitchell]

Eureka! The sleeve is out, without Scooter's result. I use the tractor for work about 20 hrs a year and tractor rides. I wanted to change it as I don't want to be the guy on the tractor ride with the smokiest tractor. I could not find a sleeve puller to rent, so I decided to try and make a puller and if it moved fine, and if not I would leave it. It took a $7 piece of threaded rod, a piece of 3/4" plywood on the bottom end and a u made out of 4x4 and 1x2s plus washers and nuts. It came out without much drama. The hole needs a little clean up, but it is pretty clean for an old tractor. Thanks all for the info and encouragement.

Sounds like a tuff job turned fun. My personal experience is cutting two or three oak 2x2s to a comfortable length, laying on my creeper under the engine, and whaling away on the edge of the sleeve with a decent size ballpeen, via the oak "punch." That's how I was taught and it never failed to work on a running engine. Old dryed out rusted up ones ,,,, a different story. Being too old and crippled up for much anymore I appreciate your ingenuity and perseverance!! gm

 

[8NHENRY]

Good job Ken glad you had success!

 

[kenbob]

A machinist told me too much pounding on the bottom might get them flaired at the bottom and then real hard to get out. When I did try tapping with the hammer handle from the bottom I could feel vibrate at the top so I was confident my home made puller would do the job.