The 550 I bought had an overhaul done before I bought it but it was pretty messed up. Tore it apart in frame and gradually getting it fixed. I have a shop manual. My question is what is the real world experience for replacing a sleeve. WHo ever worked on the motor gouged the sleeve with the rod bolt when they put it together. I know if I don't fix it, it will smoke and have less power. I am older and the tractor would be plenty good enough that way for me. I am not opposed to spending for a sleeve. I am asking for any horror stories about replacing sleeves before I do it. If there is a chance of breaking something big time I probably won't do it.
rrlund
Well-known Member
They're wet sleeves, so once they pop loose, you can lift them right out. Just how much force it'll take to pop one loose depends. I've made a couple of pullers that have worked ALMOST every time. The one exception was a year ago. A guy in our club wanted my son and I to pull the sleeves out of an old Allis Chalmers U for him. I bent my best puller and none of them would let loose. We had to turn the block upside down in my press and take all of them out that way. When the first one let loose, it made such a loud bang that I thought we must have busted something, but they all made that sickening sound and all popped out. I don't think there's much danger that you'll actually break anything, except maybe a home made puller.
rrlund
Well-known Member
You don't need to freeze a wet sleeves to put them in. They only touch the block at the bottom and top. The bottom is tapered and has o rings on it to seal. The top only goes down in the block about half an inch. You just lubricate the o rings, slip them down in the block and tap them the last half inch.
If it was a rod bolt scare down low it might not bother. A lot can go wrong with pulling /replacing sleeves.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
No freezing involved. Wet sleeves should drop in before the sealing rings are in place. You need to carefully and fully clean the sealing areas in the block and at the top where the sleeves set in. That means to bare metal, then you set the sleeves in the bores and check for protrusion as spec'd in the manual. If it is not correct the block may need to be reconditioned. Sometimes shims can be used if protrusion is too low.
You should have a manual with the specs and procedures for your engine.
I cant get my head around how a sleeve could be gouged with a rod bolt? I could see a scratch, but you could simply run a deglazer up and down a couple times to cure that issue. Do liners meausure up good with a bore guage? Sometimes an overhaul does not mean replacing sleeves. Can you still see the cross hatch marks? Maybe post a pic of inside liner?
In some engines I can see how it could happen. Not to mention carless workmanship.
scootergmc
Well-known Member
- Location
- NorCal
Got her all freed up.
That pilgrim is a bit extreme! Could only happen to me!Got her all freed up.
Best thing to check your liners with is a bore guage. All you really need is a cheap one. Attached is $50 something canadian so probably cheaper yet US. You will need appropriate size mic to go along with it to set it at your nominal liner bore size. It is faster and more accurate than using an inside mic or telescopic guage and mic.
Exactly what I am trying to avoid.Got her all freed up.
scootergmc
Well-known Member
- Location
- NorCal
Well unless your engine is stuck and the tractor is junk, you should be fine.
My guess is wrist pin escaped sometime during it lifetime. I am guessing you have floating pins.
Ken you Have to remember that is the extreme end of things. What scares me is you got a half !@# engine job. So what else have they screwed up?
rustred
Well-known Member
when the wrist pin slides out it makes 2 wear makes in the sleeve. as its each outside of the pin that rubs. and do not use grease or oil on the rubber o-rings, use dish soap, brake fluid, or vaseline is ok they say but never tryed vaseline . be interesting to see that scratch.
It would be a long list. One wrist pin snap ring not seated correctily, No 4 rod bearing was not put on right. It spun and the cap was loose enough to wiggle after. Replaced rod bearings but not the mains, still discovering stuff.
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