question about 4500 spindles

[pomester]

I went ahead and ordered repair kits for the spindles on my new-to-me 4500 - I've stripped the area of all the extraneous pieces and removed the tapered lock pin - it now looks like this -

at this point, theoretically the king pin should just slide out of the axle, right? I've given a couple of half-hearted taps to the top of the pin and things seem quite tight - I think this is the point to break out the heat and warm/expand the axle and then drive the kingpin down and out? -

thanks
David

 

[shaun wallace]

I have decent results turning spindle to side and give axle end few GOOD whacks. Maybe need to hit kingpin little harder. Sometimes just gotta warm them up with torch

 

[ptfarmer]

(quoted from post at 11:15:10 02/07/17) I have decent results turning spindle to side and give axle end few GOOD whacks. Maybe need to hit kingpin little harder. Sometimes just gotta warm them up with torch

Same here ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[pomester]

well, that turned out to be a real pig - after pounding and modest heating I turned to the hot wrench and blasted out the lower bearing area of the king pin and then lifted the spindle up and cut the kingpin at the top of the axle -

with the spindle out of the way I was left with the pin stuck in the axle - SOB fought me the entire way - heat red hot, pound it a dozen times to gain a 1/4", heat again -

finally victory -

I hit it so hard so many times that the bushing on the opposite side lifted out of the bore -

this kingpin came out with only modest effort I am so happy to report -

I expect when I get the new bushings that I will find at least some of the spindle bores to be worn to the point that the bushings will just slide in and out -

I don't know what to do about that -

Anyone have any suggestions for oversized bores?

thanks - David

 

[ptfarmer]

Make sure that the holes in the spindles are still round, and within the factory diameter. After you put new bushings in the spindles they will probably need to reamed so the new king pins can turn in them.

 

[pomester]

"Make sure that the holes in the spindles are still round
and within the factory diameter..."

yes, this is likely going to be a problem - 3 out of the 4 bores look bad to my eye, tho I've not measured - the new bushings should be here thursday - I'll evaluate the fit then - kits with new spindles are $450 each - maybe I can find oversized bushings and have the spindles bored out to fit them, tho I doubt that will be either cheap or convenient -

I knew it would likely be trouble....

 

[Check Break]

"... maybe I can find oversized bushings and have the spindles bored out to fit them ..."

Here's a resource for bushings. http://www.nationalbronze.com/

Any automotive machine shop should be able to install stock bushings and ream to alignment. If you have to install an oversize bushing that may be beyond their capability.

 

[Sean in PA]

I can't tell for sure from your pictures, but it looks like the spindle on the side that you had the problems with does not have any grease zerks while the other one does. Maybe that is why it was such a bear to get the pin out, maybe it had never had any grease in it?

 

[pomester]

the holes are there - I believe the zerks to be broken off but I haven't cleaned it up yet - bottom bushing was gone, top bushing was just a piece tho the bearing was intact until I used the cutting torch - I suppose grease would release a bit of oil that could seep down around the pin - might have helped - dunno - think I'll polish the bore with a brake cylinder hone until the new pin slides in -

don't know what exactly to do now - waiting on parts today - do I take the spindles and hubs (and sheet metal that's loose?) over to the sandblaster? - I could prime it, but if I wanted them the right color that's another kinda big expensive job and only a few pieces of the tractor would be done - color not available in a rattle can - it's going to a big job to make this one presentable, so many surfaces, so much rust, huge amounts of oily filth, and quite difficult to break down into manageable pieces -

Late last night I tried to find new hub seals for the front, I didn't do the right one any favors while getting the hub off, I wasn't observant/smart enough to remove it before applying some heat, and tho it appears still serviceable it did have a pre-existing condition with a small hole in the metal part - I am striking out so far on the internet tho

 

[pomester]

Thanks for that link CB - I am browsing - I need to take some measurements and see what they have that's close - there are machine shops around here that can work on parts like my spindles if I talk them into it, but they are not cheap -

it would appear that I am looking at the 'cast bronze sleeve bushings' for this application? do you know? -

thanks - David

 

[Sean in PA]

Broken or missing zerks could have allowed water to get in there as well and rust things up.

 

[ptfarmer]

When I have to overbore something like a axle pivot, spindles, etc, I make steel sleeves that accept the original steel backed bushings. I give the owner a choice, and they like to use the same steel backed bushings the factory used. If it should ever wear into the steel sleeves I make, I can make another sleeve to replace the one I made. Saves having to re-bore the axle supports, or spindles.

Boring out a front support axle pivot for a tractor I bought.

 

[pomester]

it's been a long time since this tractor has had a thorough lubrication - it's not seen much love for many years - - just got an owner's manual when the mail came today, I expect it will identify all the grease points -

 

[pomester]

nice...

I took the spindles and hubs and caps over to a place where they will sandblast them - this enterprise restores tractors as a business, I forgot my phone or I'd have taken some pictures - a shop of which to be envious - but they don't do this type of machining, they source it out - we looked over the spindles and decided they would clean them up and when the kits come (should be tomorrow) I'll run them over and we'll evaluate -

there are quality machine shops in the area with the equipment and ability to do whatever is asked, but they are run for profit and pieces I have had made are expensive - I had a reclusive machinist not far from me who used to do good work for a farm price, but he has now passed and I have to enter thru the front door of the various other shops in the area -

we'll see what the options are here - would you have an interest in doing the job if it's necessary? - UPS runs all the way to TX I think...

 

[ptfarmer]

The 4500 spindle should just need to reamed to a bigger size. A reamer has to long enough to do both bosses on the spindle at the same time so they are parallel to each other. Just about any machine shop should be able to the job.

 

[ptfarmer]

On spindles that are the knee type I build them up with weld, then turn them back down to the original diameter.

 

[Check Break]

(quoted from post at 08:45:56 02/08/17)
... it would appear that I am looking at the 'cast bronze sleeve bushings' for this application? do you know?

Their vehicle style bushing with the internal grease grooves is more similar to OEM.

Something else. If your OEM bushings work but there's not enough interference fit to make you comfortable, you may be able to use some bearing lock (similar to threadlock) to keep them firmly cemented in place. It requires heat in the 400F range to break the bond between the bushing and spindle.

 

[pomester]

so - the kits for the spindles came yesterday, but the weather was so nasty I just stayed home and worked the shop - a nicer day today and I ran some errands that included picking up the spindles and associated parts from the sandblasting place - they had three JD's in the shop getting the full treatment -

nice to have clean parts - I sat them by the stove and gave them a zinc primer -

the very good news is the bores are in good shape, my judgement about their condition was flawed - bushings fit tight - I started to drive one home with a block of wood and a hammer, got about half way and decided that a press was in order -

first place I took them was an automotive machine shop run by a neighbor - they didn't have the tools to ream the bushings, but still a good PR move on my part - I then took them to the big league shop just a block away - they do tremendous work, but not cheaply - the guy at the counter looked at a spindle and kit and said "ya, we got an old guy that'll know how to do that" - "well, call him in, it's still 2 hours to quitting time" - "chuckles" - - - "OK, I'll get the rest out of the car" - - I come back in and a young pup was looking over the first pieces - - we go back and forth a bit, he says "well, we'll turn down the kingpins to match the bushings" - I say "no, that's not how it's done, what time is the old fellow going to be here monday morning?" - "he gets in around 10, but has to have coffee and check out the card game - give us a call about 10:30" - - I think this young man will learn something on monday -

if you need head gaskets they make them....

 

[Check Break]

They look great. Now you have another problem. With spindles like that, they'll need a front pivot pin to match. Time to remove the axle from the bolster and make all the pins match.

 

[pomester]

"...need a front pivot pin to match..."

ya - no...

I need to get this thing back together and it needs to return on my investment this spring - I'll be making a list while I'm using it - I'm not adverse to overhauling the engine at some point in the future if it needs it and that would be the time to do the pivot job - I'm guessing its current condition is serviceable, if it's not, I'll deal with it sooner -

this tractor's weight and mass strains some of my shop situation - I keep looking at it, trying to figure out how the loader could be detached so I could have this shop sandblast it - looks like a big heavy dangerous job to me - left brake is not right, low pedal, there was a calcium chloride leak on that side at some point and things are rusty - - I'm guessing that trumpet needs to come off to make things right and I don't see how that is possible with the loader frame there - all projects for another season -

This beast was very close to being a parts tractor, I'd guess - I do enjoy making things right even tho I'll probably wrap more $$ up in it than it will be worth -

 

[Check Break]

Just trying to give you a hard time, but on second thought, our 535 came from a cement contractor who never heard of grease. In addition to the king pins, the pivot pin was so worn we had to bore and sleeve the front bolster back to standard before installing new pins and bushings. You might want to take a look at your pivot pin before you grease it. It's probably similar to the spindles and your bolster is intact. New bushings might buy you thousands of hours for nearly nothing.

That loader would come off easier if you had the bucket on it instead of forks. If the frame is your hydraulic tank, you'll have to drain it. Since I haven't done this since 1988, any other advice I have re this issue is likely to be wrong. If I get a chance to look at our 535 tonight, maybe some dead brain cells will revive.

Yes, the trumpet will probably have to come off but for now you may be able to adjust the pedal up and run it like it is for a thousand hours. The sub frame will pivot and drop down in the back to give you access to the trumpet if you remove one bolt from each side of the subframe where it attaches to the front bolster and back off the other. Still leaves you with the subframe hydraulic tank issue to deal with but much easier than removing the whole loader.

 

[pomester]

"Just trying to give you a hard time..."

ya - I understand - but it does touch on a difficult issue which is 'where to stop' - in another thread about crankcase ventilation the question was posed, 'why don't you fix...?' - the answer is 'because I need to use it' - I didn't get this machine because I needed something to do, I got it because it will (potentially) do a job I need done - that I also enjoy fixing things is just a side benefit -

this is also stretching the budget...

 

[ptfarmer]

(quoted from post at 11:40:23 02/11/17)
This beast was very close to being a parts tractor, I'd guess - I do enjoy making things right even tho I'll probably wrap more $$ up in it than it will be worth -

Sounds just my 4500 "pretty much a parts tractor". Number 1 rod bearing spun, ruined the rod journal so the crank along with the connecting rod is junk.

Engine out, loader off. Removed the lift cylinders first, capped all the hydraulic lines off, then removed the loader. Had my brother running the forklift while I got the loader arms off.

Now just waiting on money, and ordering parts.

 

[pomester]

My hat's off to you - that looks like some heavy dangerous work to get to this point -

sounds like you are going to rebuild the engine, that'll take some $$ - the machine otherwise appears to not have been abused or used up -

I have searched the web quite a bit for 'Ford 4500 tractor' over the last two weeks - praise for the model is near universal - gas units have the Holley carb blues, the second most common problem is malfunctioning steering mechanisms - rivets holding the ring gear to the carrier breaking are occasionally an issue -

built like a tank, strong hydraulics, the good 3 cylinder engine (your experience notwithstanding) - a heavy duty small machine - but unless you got yours for free, I doubt you'll turn a profit on it...

 

[ptfarmer]

I paid $1400 for it (diesel), once I get it back together I will use it on my farm. I'm not going to sell it, I have been wanting a TLB to have at the farm for many years. This was the only way I could afford it, buy one cheap, fix what needs fixing as money allows to buy any parts I need. I also can fabricate/fix (weld, and or machine) some of the old parts to be good as new (which will be quite a few parts). I'm going to take before, and after pictures of those parts, and or assemblies.

 

[ptfarmer]

Took about 4 hours to take it from a complete machine to what you see in the bottom picture. I turned 51 a few months ago so it's taking me a little longer to get things done these days.

 

[Check Break]

(quoted from post at 18:28:37 02/11/17) 'where to stop' - I need to use it' ...

Well, when I looked at the 535 tonight I realized we just pulled the loader and subframe off in one piece out the front when the bolster and front axle were off for repair. Not as easy when the axle is in place.

I thought of something else as well; not sure why it took so long. Have you looked at your pump drive. If the previous owner didn't grease the spindles, he didn't grease the pump drive. Now is the time to give it a look, not after a u-joint lets go and it takes out the radiator.

After that I'd look for little things while you're getting the motor going, then change all the fluids and get some use out of it as soon as the weather allows. Paint it next winter if you have time. I was in the same kind of boat as you. I was building my house at the time and needed a skiploader. The front end of the 535 was a disaster but the transmission was fresh and the rest of the machine in decent shape so we welded up the loader, made new pins and bosses for the bucket, rebuilt the bolster, pump drive and steering cylinder and ran the hell out of it for more than a year. If you decide to paint the tractor next winter, you can take the loader off like ptfarmer did and then remove each side of the subframe. A bit more work than removing the loader in one piece but something you can do yourself when you don't have any help.

 

[ptfarmer]

That is a good point about the front axle pivot, and hydraulic pump driveshaft. If the pivot pin is loose it can start on putting the pump driveshaft under a load, and the parts connected to it. It wouldn't hurt to take a look at it, and now would be the time to do it if its needed.

On another note wait until you see what work I'm going to have to do with the with the swing, and lower boom pivot pins for the backhoe, it will be very interesting.

 

[Destroked 450]

4500 has a different front axle bolster with the pivot pin under the bolster similar to a 5000. The pump drive doesn't go thru the pin like on older four cylinder models.
It's a good idea to grease the pump drive splines and ujoints but on these models a worn axle pivot pin won't cause pump dive issues.

When splitting a 4500 make sure not to loose the shims that go between the front bolster and oil pan.

 

[pomester]

"Have you looked at your pump drive."

yes - I have a new fan/gen belt and have to disconnect the pump drive from the front pulley to get it installed, I'll check on u-joint conditions then, they look good superficially - hopefully this is the last disassembly associated with this session and things can start going back together - the carburetor hasn't arrived (Farmer said it might be a little while) and this afternoon I'm having a friend over with his little MIG welder and we'll see about welding nuts on the exhaust manifold bolts - the bolt heads are so eroded that sockets don't fit -

valve cover was leaking a bit on the exhaust side so I pulled it - a bit crusty around the rocker arms, but I've seen worse - I'll re-install the distributor and adjust the valve lash -

note the primary ignition wire where it hangs over the bracket - it was loosely wrapped in hard oily electrical tape...

wish I would have purchased several of the $2 cans of carburetor cleaner when they were on sale - I could clear the block of a lot of crud -

 

[ptfarmer]

(quoted from post at 09:04:17 02/12/17) "Have you looked at your pump drive."

yes - I have a new fan/gen belt and have to disconnect the pump drive from the front pulley to get it installed, I'll check on u-joint conditions then, they look good superficially - hopefully this is the last disassembly associated with this session and things can start going back together - the carburetor hasn't arrived (Farmer said it might be a little while) and this afternoon I'm having a friend over with his little MIG welder and we'll see about welding nuts on the exhaust manifold bolts - the bolt heads are so eroded that sockets don't fit -

valve cover was leaking a bit on the exhaust side so I pulled it - a bit crusty around the rocker arms, but I've seen worse - I'll re-install the distributor and adjust the valve lash -

note the primary ignition wire where it hangs over the bracket - it was loosely wrapped in hard oily electrical tape...

wish I would have purchased several of the $2 cans of carburetor cleaner when they were on sale - I could clear the block of a lot of crud -

Between the both of we probably could have put one 4500 together out of the two without spending a bunch of money LOL.

 

[Destroked 450]

(quoted from post at 11:04:17 02/12/17) "Have you looked at your pump drive."

yes - I have a new fan/gen belt and have to disconnect the pump drive from the front pulley to get it installed, I'll check on u-joint conditions then, they look good superficially - hopefully this is the last disassembly associated with this session and things can start going back together - the carburetor hasn't arrived (Farmer said it might be a little while) and this afternoon I'm having a friend over with his little MIG welder and we'll see about welding nuts on the exhaust manifold bolts - the bolt heads are so eroded that sockets don't fit -

valve cover was leaking a bit on the exhaust side so I pulled it - a bit crusty around the rocker arms, but I've seen worse - I'll re-install the distributor and adjust the valve lash -

note the primary ignition wire where it hangs over the bracket - it was loosely wrapped in hard oily electrical tape...

wish I would have purchased several of the $2 cans of carburetor cleaner when they were on sale - I could clear the block of a lot of crud -

I reworked my 4500 recently and converted to a alternator. To replace the belt I not only had to unbolt the drive from the pulley but also had to loosen the pump inorder for the drive to clear the pulley.

The wiring should run along side the valve cover with clips holding it in place, also no wires should be running over the top of the battery tray support.
They should be run around the front between the valve cover and battery tray support with the temp sender wire going under the support to the sender.
Try using brake cleaner instead of carb cleaner, it does a better job and doesn't evaporate as fast, it also doesn't leave a film on parts that needs to be cleaned off before painting.
Be careful of back spray from brake cleaner, it burns my skin. Best to wear a face shield or at lease safety glasses.

 

[pomester]

I find the same situation in regards to the pump drive - loosening the bolts does not gain clearance between the pulley and drive shaft - - I'm looking at the two bolts holding the pump to the bracket and while I can loosen them, I don't see where that will gain me enough clearance to slip a belt between the pulley and drive shaft, I doubt there's a half inch between the front of the pump and the housing and what space is there is somewhat packed with oily dirt -

I could see this turning out to be the most difficult task associated with the current maintenance - everything else has been straightforward, albeit encrusted in dirt...

 

[Destroked 450]

Loosening the pump will allow it to move back about a 1/4" which is enough for the drive adapter to clear the pulley, then you can swing the adapter and drive shaft over out of the way in order to replace the belt.
You don't have to completely remove the nuts or take the bolts out, just loosen enough for the adapter to clear the pulley.
I left mine disconnected until I was finished working on the engine, that allowed me to start the engine without running the hydraulics because I had the loader off of the frame with hoses loose.

 

[pomester]

I removed the mounting bolts, not that difficult - but the pump/manifold is right up against the frame and there's no space to move it forward -

it appears the the yoke should slide on the splines to provide for fit/flex, barely visible in the picture - - but it does not move freely, maybe not surprising after years in one position - I'm spraying it with penetrating oil but there's no place to get any leverage on it or to tap, not to mention the danger of damaging the pump - there's already a fair amount of end play on the shaft coming out of the pump, I don't really want to put much stress on it -

I ordered an adjustable link v-belt that can be installed without separating the pulley/adapter - I'll fuss with this a little bit more, but am not going to force anything -

 

[Destroked 450]

Your's appears to have the early vane pump, mine is a late 69 with a gear pump that's not as long, gives me a little more working room.
Sorry that didn't work, not sure how the belt's replaced with that pump but I'd think there's a way without major parts removable.
As I said I only have to move the pump 1/4" to get the adapter loose.

 

[pomester]

After a couple days that were too nice not to work outside a brisk NW wind was blowing today so I decided to get back to work on the tractor - meaning running after parts - I recovered some sheet metal that was at the sandblaster's and stopped by NAPA to pick up some filters, odds and ends, and supplies - bought some fluids at TSC and picked up the spindles at the machine shop -

Ron was not quite done with them - but we had a nice conversation and he showed off his shop - it's housed in a building that is mainly a metalworks, he's related somehow and wanted something to do - he's very proud of his machines and talked about how he bought many of them new - I don't have the full story -

he actually built a sleeve, pressed the bearings in, and turned them down on a lathe to get close - he said they were so oversized that it was unreasonable to try to get home with just a reamer - I'd guess these bushings are 'off the shelf' with the right OD and 'close enough' ID -

his adjustable reamer for the final sizing -

he had one of them done and was working on the other - I had to return in the afternoon to pick up the pair -

very nice - kingpins slide and turn sooo smooth -

I degreased them and got the first coat of paint on - they are setting near the stove, probably will be too tacky to work with tonight - there's plenty of other stuff to do tho...

 

[JoeM(GA)]

good to have friends with toys, and knowledge to use them!

 

[pomester]

One thing I have found out during this adventure is that it is possible to have a rattle can made of whatever paint you might want - discussing painting at the sandblasting place, the main man there told me that they purchased/run a CarQuest franchise just so they could have the paint - I drove over to the place, located in a small town near not much, to check it out -

I had the number for the paint that's recommended for this vintage Ford and worked thru it with the counter guy - the bottom line was it was going to be $110 for a quart of color and the reducer and catalyst - - not right now... the counter guy says that he can make a rattle can of that color, ready to spray complete with catalyst - $18 -

I decided to take a chance and bought two of them -

The can has the catalyst in some sort of containment - there's a tool to break that containment, shake the can and spray away - the guy said that the paint is good for 24 hours after being mixed -

here's the valve on the bottom of the can, one uses the red tool to push it in which releases the catalyst -

dunno - still expensive, but I will get a lot of the sandblasted stuff covered - should I get around to painting the tractor someday I won't have to disassemble the front corners to get a well detailed job -

something to keep in mind, it might be a reasonable thing to do under certain circumstances -

I will say that I am not impressed with the color match of the recommended paint - the original Ford paint formula is apparently lost in the mists of time and this is some Chrysler color that is suppose to be close - think I'll do a bit of research before I'd buy enough of this to paint a tractor -

 

[Destroked 450]

I had forgotten that ford used two different yellows on the 4500's,
65/66 models used a color called Buff that I believe is the same as earlier 1801 industrials used, my 1990 parts catalog shows only spray cans available then with part # M1J-1640-SE4
67/74 models used yellow # M20J-3132A-SE5 that was changed to # 7078DSLF and showed it being used on all 65/74 models.
A recent search showed a # 70106DSLF for 67/74 models and didn't list anything for 65/66 models.

I had first fixed my 4500 up in 2000 and I didn't like the looks of the pale yellow color so I repainted the tractor a later 75/up model Industrial yellow # M5394A-SE5 that has been changed to # M5394ASE5DSLF, looking at a recent paint chip shows they may have changed the formula some as it appears to have a more orange'er look to it like Case used, but it could just be the paint chip.

Edit: The paint numbers I used are all for spray cans, qrts and gals used a different last number.

 

[ptfarmer]

I just use the VHT epoxy paint http://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-epoxy-all-weather-paint

 

[ptfarmer]

(quoted from post at 10:10:03 02/16/17) I just use the VHT epoxy paint http://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-epoxy-all-weather-paint

It's half the cost of the spray/catalyst type.

 

[pomester]

color selection is rather limited - maybe make this an 'Emo 4500' and paint it all black! Bonus is the caked oil crust won't show much...

 

[ptfarmer]

Scuff it with 400 grit, and paint it whatever color you want, I use the white epoxy for primer.

 

[pomester]

 

[Check Break]

Nice job.

One thing I noticed a while ago is the o-rings that seal the kingpins top and bottom do not last as long as they used to. I was replacing them every year. I assumed it was sun damage so I covered them in grease when I lubed the spindles and now they last for years.

I hate to say it but you're going to have to remove that half inch of dirt between your hydraulic pump and front bolster to move your pump back. Those compartments are notorious for filling with dust. Add an oil leak or two for years and the heat bonds the crud together. It comes out easiest with a steam cleaner but I didn't have one my first time. No pressure washer either. I think I just poured boiling water and engine degreaser on it then hit it with the garden hose.

If I understand you correctly, your pump drive is frozen to the pump's input shaft. Never seen that before. Usually the pump drive is wallowed out and the input splines damaged due to u-joint failure. Maybe you're in good shape in that department.

 

[pomester]

"o-rings that seal the kingpins top and bottom do not last as long as they used to." - that's why I went ahead and painted them, maybe provide a bit of UV protection -

I was able to get the hydraulic drive u-joints to take grease, the one near the pulley was a bit of a fight - they appear sound - the yoke on the splines is frozen, I've been spraying penetrating oils of various concoctions on the area and I've bolted the adapter back up to the pulley - I purchased a linked belt that can be installed without moving the adapter - I've not used one before, but I've heard they work well - if it doesn't, I'll have to pull the front housing and radiator so I can get to the area to work on the drive shaft - there's no way to get leverage or to tap on the drive shaft, it's buried in the middle and I'm concerned about damaging the pump putting strain on the shaft - I'll keep applying penetrant to the area and deal with it later - when I get it running I'll pull it back outside and hit it with the pressure washer again -

I can turn the engine by hand using the crankshaft pulley (plugs are out) - I'm thinking that says a lot about the condition of the rings...

 

[Check Break]

When you get it running, the drive line will break it's bond with the input shaft. Now if only that carburetor would show up. Any luck with the exhaust pipe.

 

[pomester]

well, I'm out of state for a few days to attend a wedding so progress is stalled - the carburetor is setting on the bench - sorry about the upside down picture - I don't know how to rotate it on this phone

I pulled the used OEM exhaust manifold - I'm uncertain how I'll proceed - looks like someone may have glued a pipe into the manifold with some product that is well attached to the cast iron - I may let the sandblaster see if they can knock it off - a die grinder with a coarse stone maybe - when I get that done it shouldn't take but a long evening to hear it run again although there will be several details to attend to as I use it a bit

 

[pomester]

Well....

It runs - it moves - it starts easily - it sounds good -

filters go on sale one week from tomorrow at NAPA, I'm going to save about $15 and get the new air filter then -

distributor body has to be off by a position, but the engine is timed correctly and I'll be back to that area as a bit of fiddling is needed to reduce idle by a 100 rpm

still lots of things to lubricate, detail, and check on - but I'll clean the shop before moving it back into position - the right brake (the 'good' one) leaks oil like a sieve - the left rear tire is a little low, CaCl2 has leaked there before, I think the rim is serviceable, but it'll likely need a new valve which will potentially open a mess that could include rim, tube, and a service call - better to deal with it now rather having failure in some remote location - first step is to remove the fender whose fasteners are well rusted into position...

dunno - I still like it - only tractor I know of that can hit 17 mph in reverse....

 

[Check Break]

Where's the leak from the right brake coming from. The brake rod seal is an easy fix.

 

[pomester]

Check - - it's the brake rod seal - I've got new ones on the way -

I believe it was you that earlier talked about the front axle pivot pins/bushings - that area is indeed in need of renovation - tho it's unlikely I'll do it before I tend to this job I have for the machine, I'd like to get the parts on hand - I'm not finding anything with the usual suppliers, not surprising maybe since there were relatively few of them made -

when you rebuilt the pivot on your tractor where did you shop for parts? I'll be going to Ford/NH pretty soon and I'll check there, sometimes that works and sometimes their pricing is just out of reason -

David

 

[Check Break]

Yes, I purchased all my pivot pins from FNH. I just looked up the prices online. Shocking. If your bushings are still tight in the casting (no air between the OD of the bushing and the casting) maybe you can get by for now, like you said, and finish your job. Just keep them greased. Your machinist may be able to reuse your pins and make you oversize bushings for a lot less money. They'll last for thousands of hours.

Removing the pins can be a picnic. You back out the bolt that holds the two pins together (a half inch ??? or so, it's been a while) and smack the head of the bolt with a sledge to free up the threaded pin. I don't remember how the hollow pin comes out. I think you can drive it out from the back after the threaded pin comes out if it doesn't pop out from beating on the bolt. If I read the book maybe it will refresh my memory.

 

[pomester]

Continued the saga this afternoon, among other distractions - on the chance that there are people interested here's another set of pictures -

the brake rod seals came in the mail - the 4000 series including this 4500 have wet brakes located in the trumpets - where the actuating rod enters the housing there is a flexible boot that keeps the oil inside and the rest of the world out - - the oil level is above the seal, so if damaged or worn out the differential lubricant leaks out - there remains quite a bit of fluid in the differential, but not as much as there should be -

I removed the running boards for access - the parking brake mechanism is missing - if anyone has the pieces they'd consider selling let me know - the foot throttle mechanism is there and works, after a fashion, but needs refurbished - I hadn't planned on doing that right now, but I went ahead and disassembled all the pieces and took them over to the sandblasting shop that did the spindles -

I pried the old seal out of the housing - here it is next to a new one - I'd say it's used up...

the seal has a spring that holds it tight in a rebate(?) on the shaft and the outside presses into the axle housing -

it's difficult to get the small diameter over the rod and seated in the rebate - I got the seal nice and warm in hot water and used a couple of dull screwdrivers to encourage the seal into position, then used an appropriate sized socket to drive and seat the seal into the axle housing -

I did both sides - it is a PITA, despite being described as an 'easy fix' --

while I'm in the area I'll refurbish the linkages - the clutch rod was in rare condition and one thing I did a few years back is to get a bag of 3/8" pins the length that is commonly used in a lot of linkages on many models of Ford tractors - whenever I'm dealing with worn pins I just replace them -

the pins take care of half the slop, the clevises are often worn also - I braise them and drill to get back to a nice comfortable fit -

I'd guess I'll not get the sandblasted parts back till next week - I've got a short list of things to pick up from Ford/NH and I've got to decide what I'm doing about paint -

I also adjusted the valves hot and believe I have all the gasoline leaks/seeps tightened up - the two fittings on the lift pump did not want to seal - the neutral safety switch is bypassed and using a continuity tester I've determined it does not work - whether it's a bad switch or a problem with the shifter mechanism remains to be determined...

 

[Dinnie]

I have a Mahindra 4500 2WD, I have had my tractor front wheels jacked up for two months, working with a front wheel cylinder issue. Now that has been corrected, I notice now that my right wheel, appear to be locked. The wheel/tire turn around, but the whole wheel will not turn right or left. The spindle with the large castle nut will not budge. This maybe called the tractor right arm that the front tire mounted to. The ball joint assembly knuckle arm end turns. What can you think may have the large castle nut/hub spindle locked???

 

[Destroked 450]

Sorry but youre attaching this to a 5 year old thread, anyone using classic view (an many do) will never see your post
You need to start a new thread about your issue
Id post it on tractor talk to get the most views
Im not familiar with the brand you have but if your talking about the castle nut that holds the wheel bearings in there should be some type of lock to keep the nut from backing off, and that has nothing to do with the steering