Question for DELL

[Ken Cepek]

In March, '07, you answered my question on the clutch disk freezing on seldom used (8N) tractors. Then you suggested to ALWAYS shut the under the tank fuel valve OFF. Does shutting the gas off have anything to do with the clutch freezing up?
Thanks for all of your help.
Ken

 

[Brian Bell]

I'll catch this one for Dell. Not really is the best answer. Shutting the fuel off prevents it from flooding out the engine and filling the crank case with gas. See tip 9 on the link. The sticky clutch comes froma leaky rear seal on the engine or leaky input shaft seal on the transmission.
Bruces 50 tips

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:42:54 07/26/09) In March, '07, you answered my question on the clutch disk freezing on seldom used (8N) tractors. Then you suggested to ALWAYS shut the under the tank fuel valve OFF. Does shutting the gas off have anything to do with the clutch freezing up?
Thanks for all of your help.
Ken

ust poking a stick in his eye aren't you? :wink:

 

[Dell (WA)]

Ken......didja gitt yer clutch unstuck??? Once yer clutch starts to stick, it will alway be succeptable to sticking. I made a neat bracket that bolts to the lip of my 8N footboard that I can swivel up and capture the clutch pedal. Others just use a big rock or wedge a 2x4 to keep the cutch pedal down so it don't stick with long term idleness.

The under the gastank valve has 'nuttin' to do with the clutch pedal sticking, but it is a very good idea to turn yer fuel valve OFF at the end of yer tractoring day. HTH.......Dell

 

[Ken Cepek]

Yes, I got the clutch working, thanks. Then I cut about a 6" piece of aluminum or magnesium bar stock, ground the bottom to fit the clutch shaft by the pedal. Then
I insert the top end under a bolt, Push the clutch down, & fit the bottom on the shaft. It's easy to carry with when I go on tractor rides & use it. Other wise if I don't, I start up & can't shift. I still need to do some serious clutch slipping & see if that helps.
Thanks again, Ken

 

[Ken Cepek]

I never really know unless I ask. Ended up sounding dumb.
Ken

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 18:58:46 07/27/09) Yes, I got the clutch working, thanks. Then I cut about a 6" piece of aluminum or magnesium bar stock, ground the bottom to fit the clutch shaft by the pedal. Then
I insert the top end under a bolt, Push the clutch down, & fit the bottom on the shaft. It's easy to carry with when I go on tractor rides & use it. Other wise if I don't, I start up & can't shift. I still need to do some serious clutch slipping & see if that helps.
Thanks again, Ken

If it's the front tranny seal leaking on the clutch plate, the clutch plate will continue to get stickier, and swelled till it won't release at all, at least mine did.

I took mine apart, and did a clutch job, ring gear, and front tranny seal, and now it is awesome.

If it is just rusting to the the flywheel/pressure plate, you may be alright keeping it held down.

 

[Ken Cepek]

Thanks, Brian.
It's hard for me to imagine that oil, a lubricant, can somehow make the clutch stick to the pressure plate/disk, especially in as little time as 45 min. after shutting off the tractor. I've read on other posts about rust forming on the pressure plate/disk causing the clutch to stick. If I lock my clutch pedal down, it works OK every time.
Ken