Raty looking bales

[Najumade]

I bought a JD 375 Round baler with hydro tie. The baler is in great shape. It gobbles up the hay great. But the baler are not tighly packed and does not tie tight. The belts look good and there is no problems starting a bale in any condition. My tractor is about 95 HP at the pto. Don't know what to do. Any help would me greatly accepted.

 

[Allan in NE]

In the middle of January, those ol' cows really don't care what the bales look like . :>)

Allan

 

[bg/mo]

the way you drive while baling will make a difference in your bales also.

 

[randallinMo]

'Really insightful there Allan..........helpful too.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If your belts are in good shape you should be able to turn the pressure up on the baler. The front cover over the gear box there should be a valve that adjusts this. I believe you turn it clockwise to make a denser bale. Make sure you unlock it and lock it back in place when done (the inner "nut" locks and unlocks), don't turn it more than 1/4 turn at a time until you get the bales the way you want them. Get a manual too, there are lots of other things to adjust.

 

[RickB]

no, but if they are soft and stored outside half rotten, they won't much care for they way they taste.

 

[M Nut]

You know, you're right Allan. We ran short of hay a few years back and the only hay we could find looked more like blobs than bales. Had to haul them single as opposed to side by side because they wouldn't stay on a wagon otherwise. I had never seen such poor excuses for bales but those old cows never gave it a second thought.

 

[M Nut]

If it's anything like my Vermeer, it should have a valve that adjusts the amount of hydraulic pressure put on the bale. I only have mine at 700lbs, but it can be adjusted as high as 2500lbs. Dealer told me running it that tight would be hard on bearings and cause them to fail rather quickly. Running it at 700lbs makes a nice looking bale and in 14,000 bales I've never replaced a bearing yet.

 

[Celeriac]

As was mentioned, driving/operating technique seems to play a good part in the outcome of the bale. I run a JD 456, so I"m not sure how similar it is. Anyhow, using the tension monitor it works best, once you get a bale started, to feed one side until the other drops to the red line, then switch sides. It seems if I make more frequent alterations from side to side, keeping both sides higher on the tension, the resulting bale is softer. For me it"s still a learning experience to judge when to get things evened up for finishing the bale.

If I recall correctly the manual goes into detail about the procedure.

I run net wrap so I can"t speak to twine tension.



That"s my $.02

 

[cannonball]

feeding hay moving a lot right and left to make core, a tight core helps make a tight bale..the pressure gauge on the baler should go up and stay at set pressure even when you stop the gauge should stay up... the pressure from the tractor charges the hydraulics on the baler.. I run my pressure about 3000 lbs...



MAY GOD BLESS THE USA

 

[Tx Jim]

Najumade
As already stated good bales are from how one drives and amount of pressure. Larger,full pickup width/even windrows are easier to make tight ,flat bales. On smaller windrows on has to feed each side and the middle will be taken care of but side have to be packed for bales to be level.

Where does your pressure gauge set? On my JD 467 my gauge once a core is started bumps the red area. If tractor scv or a cylinder is leaking you can not make tight bales!!! Also pressure adjusting valv e on bale can malfunction.