Rear lift Farmall 140

[Lucas_Hill]

Hi our vegetable farm has a Farmall 140 that I am trying to set up with rear cultivation. However, I need to purchase several parts, starting with the left hand hydraulic control rod, and working backward. (Note: I believe the connection into the hydraulic box is snapped off. We may have to sleeve it to get the control rod attached?) I am interested in setting up a standard 3 point hitch if possible, but I’m also not sure what the lift capacity is for this tractor, and I’m open to other hitch system if a standard 3pt is not practical. My primary goal is furrow cultivation, as we have the belly bar set up with baskets for bed top cultivation.

If anyone is able to provide advice about the best system for this tractor and a list of parts we will need I would sure appreciate it!

Thanks, Lucas

 

[grandpa Love]

JP Tractor is my go to parts guy

 

[Jim in NC]

I am unable to see everything that is missing, but I believe a parts tractor with a complete hydraulic system may be the better way to go for you instead of buying the individual parts.

 

[560Dennis]

Consider a one point fast hitch with a 144 cultivator attachment .

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Your double-wide seat will have to go. The rear rockshaft mounts to the fenders, and your left fender is not mounted in the standard location so the rockshaft won't fit.

Even an aftermarket 3pt hitch won't work on the tractor as it sits, as it needs that rockshaft.

 

[Lucas_Hill]

Your double-wide seat will have to go. The rear rockshaft mounts to the fenders, and your left fender is not mounted in the standard location so the rockshaft won't fit.

Even an aftermarket 3pt hitch won't work on the tractor as it sits, as it needs that rockshaft.

Thanks for the advice- I suppose that’s probably part of the reason why the rockshaft is missing in the first place. The previous owner installed the double seat, and we don’t have any of the required parts.

 

[RGMartin]

In addition, the front mounted cultivator is the best part of using a 140. I can't see why anyone would want one on the rear.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

In addition, the front mounted cultivator is the best part of using a 140. I can't see why anyone would want one on the rear.

If you look closely in the pictures he already has some kind of doodad mounted to the front cultivator frames.

 

[Janicholson]

Hi our vegetable farm has a Farmall 140 that I am trying to set up with rear cultivation. However, I need to purchase several parts, starting with the left hand hydraulic control rod, and working backward. (Note: I believe the connection into the hydraulic box is snapped off. We may have to sleeve it to get the control rod attached?) I am interested in setting up a standard 3 point hitch if possible, but I’m also not sure what the lift capacity is for this tractor, and I’m open to other hitch system if a standard 3pt is not practical. My primary goal is furrow cultivation, as we have the belly bar set up with baskets for bed top cultivation.

If anyone is able to provide advice about the best system for this tractor and a list of parts we will need I would sure appreciate it!

Thanks, Lucas

In your 5340 image, there are 4 bolts shown in the drop box casting that could be used for attaching a tool bar. the tool bar could be created with a hinge extending across the distance with two 30 inch extensions on it allowing a cross bar of 3X3 thick wall tubing to cross behind the wheels. this could be raised and lowered by the hydraulic arms up front using a bell crank attached to the 30 inch arms. Cultivator sweeps could be attached to the 3X3 tubing to work the ground behind each wheel. Adjustment of the depth would be by stops on the hand levers of the control. Jim

 

[Lucas_Hill]

In addition, the front mounted cultivator is the best part of using a 140. I can't see why anyone would want one on the rear.

Certainly- we’re very excited about the basket weeder set up. Getting the rear lift mainly about doing simultaneous furrow and shoulder cultivation so that we can avoid a second pass with a different implement.

 

[Lucas_Hill]

In your 5340 image, there are 4 bolts shown in the drop box casting that could be used for attaching a tool bar. the tool bar could be created with a hinge extending across the distance with two 30 inch extensions on it allowing a cross bar of 3X3 thick wall tubing to cross behind the wheels. this could be raised and lowered by the hydraulic arms up front using a bell crank attached to the 30 inch arms. Cultivator sweeps could be attached to the 3X3 tubing to work the ground behind each wheel. Adjustment of the depth would be by stops on the hand levers of the control. Jim

thanks for the suggestion! I’m imagining the bell crank being mounted to a round bar spanning between the fenders to the left of the gearbox. Would this replace the original rockshaft?

 

[MARK ROBKE]

140's and similar models are built for cultivation: they are offset for that reason. The cultivators mount behind the front tires and you set in the seat directly above the row you are cultivating, so that you can observe the plant as they pass beneath the tractor. The rear 'cultivators' just follow behind the rear tires to 're-loosen' the soil as you drive along. I don't know what you mean by furrow cultivation, unless you mean making a furrow to plant into. I live in tobacco country and have spent hours cultivating (plowing, as it is called here, colloquially) tobacco. The best job with rear cultivation is not as good as the worst job with front mounted cultivators.
There are probably thousands of these tractors setting unused anymore because of the decline in tobacco production. There were/are many attachments for these tractors and with the exception of a tobacco setter(transplanter) they don't work as well as conventional tractors and implements. If I was to add something to this model, I would consider attaching to the front. Mark.

 

[Janicholson]

thanks for the suggestion! I’m imagining the bell crank being mounted to a round bar spanning between the fenders to the left of the gearbox. Would this replace the original rockshaft?

The bolts I refer to are on the cast iron Drop Boxes, (not being used, but in the threaded holes) the plate (two needed) attach there and hold the shafts sticking out of the bar. The vertical lever is what attaches to the Hydraulic arm with a fabricated rod. The sketch is a bit crude, but I hope works. Jim

 

[crsutton81]

Hi our vegetable farm has a Farmall 140 that I am trying to set up with rear cultivation. However, I need to purchase several parts, starting with the left hand hydraulic control rod, and working backward. (Note: I believe the connection into the hydraulic box is snapped off. We may have to sleeve it to get the control rod attached?) I am interested in setting up a standard 3 point hitch if possible, but I’m also not sure what the lift capacity is for this tractor, and I’m open to other hitch system if a standard 3pt is not practical. My primary goal is furrow cultivation, as we have the belly bar set up with baskets for bed top cultivation.

If anyone is able to provide advice about the best system for this tractor and a list of parts we will need I would sure appreciate it!

Thanks, Lucas

As some of the other gentlemen have stated, the tractor will have to have the left fender along with another long list of missing pieces that I can see. As Jim in NC suggested, buying a complete junker will by far wind up being cheaper than piecing back the missing parts. You should also have a good working hyd control box also with that route. If you already have something to work the actual row with on the front cultivator lift, the only thing you should need for the rear is a factory set of middle plows. They will need the rear lift to be operable but will not require a fast hitch or a 3 pt hitch to be mounted to work. Above pictured is a early model 140 that I'm working on for a friend.

 

[Brian_J]

Where are you located at??
I have a complete Farmall 100 that I started a restoration on several years ago before health and family issues took over. I have been kicking around the idea of parting it out because I have come to the realization that I will never finish it like I had once intended. It has the fast hitch like crsutton posted an image of. I have front and rear cultivators. I have all the hydraulics, linkages and touch control assembly. Additionally I have a front blade for it and a single bottom plow. I have basically the complete tractor, but in pieces. These items should bolt right up to your 140, If I'm wrong about that, someone please correct me.
I am in SE Michigan

 

[Jim in NC]

View attachment 60715
As some of the other gentlemen have stated, the tractor will have to have the left fender along with another long list of missing pieces that I can see. As Jim in NC suggested, buying a complete junker will by far wind up being cheaper than piecing back the missing parts. You should also have a good working hyd control box also with that route. If you already have something to work the actual row with on the front cultivator lift, the only thing you should need for the rear is a factory set of middle plows. They will need the rear lift to be operable but will not require a fast hitch or a 3 pt hitch to be mounted to work. Above pictured is a early model 140 that I'm working on for a friend.

What does the 140 need done to it?

 

[crsutton81]

What does the 140 need done to it?

This one is in for preparation to fertilize, bed up, and knock off the rows for planting. I'm doing a little fab work to get a bed shaper mounted on the FH.

 

[crsutton81]

Hi our vegetable farm has a Farmall 140 that I am trying to set up with rear cultivation. However, I need to purchase several parts, starting with the left hand hydraulic control rod, and working backward. (Note: I believe the connection into the hydraulic box is snapped off. We may have to sleeve it to get the control rod attached?) I am interested in setting up a standard 3 point hitch if possible, but I’m also not sure what the lift capacity is for this tractor, and I’m open to other hitch system if a standard 3pt is not practical. My primary goal is furrow cultivation, as we have the belly bar set up with baskets for bed top cultivation.

If anyone is able to provide advice about the best system for this tractor and a list of parts we will need I would sure appreciate it!

Thanks, Lucas

After having a chance to further look at things, yes the connection for the hyd control rod on your tractor has snapped off. It could be worth a try, assuming that the hyd box is working the rear lift, to spot weld a bolt to the remaining stud to enable fitting the linkage rod back in place. The lift capacity on the 100 & 140 tractors tops out around 800 lbs capacity with the helper arm on the rockshaft lift arm. After that it starts to get into tripping the relief value and it will drop the load. As for the cultivation part.....it appears that you are setup for 4 row narrow cultivation. That is not a common thing at all, atleast in my area, as most were used on 38" to 48" single row cultivation which allowed the traditional belly mount tools to work the row top and shoulders while the rear plow shanks finishes out the row middles along with wiping out the tire tracks. Upon looking and thinking some more, the only economical thing I can think of to accomplish this is to obtain a rear set of cultivators then fab up some clamps to attach the needed length 1 1/4" solid square bar to them that will span the 4 rows. You will still need the rear rockshaft working. A Super A style rockshaft without fast hitch is far more easily found and adequate so long as there is not a need for a FH. The wedge type clamps can be obtained new from Agri-Supply. This option should allow whatever shank spacing that is needed to drop down into the row middles while using easily obtainable parts. Some of the special clamps that were offered to make odd connections are hard to come by like on the model 252 front mount cultivator. Just a suggestion and hope this helps.