Rear link arms castellated nut question!

Tp1987

New User
Hi , bit confused here… I’ve got an oil leak from the plate where the rear link arms join the trumpet housing , that’s my first query, how do I fix this?

my second dilemma is in order to do so I’m guessing I’ll need to remove trumpet housing but trying to undo the castellated nut I am turning the whole spindle on which it sits (rather than the nut itself) it seems this shouldn’t be loose, I 7nderstand it’s on a taper but how do I go about tackling this ?

many thanks ,pics below !
 

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Hi , bit confused here… I’ve got an oil leak from the plate where the rear link arms join the trumpet housing , that’s my first query, how do I fix this?

my second dilemma is in order to do so I’m guessing I’ll need to remove trumpet housing but trying to undo the castellated nut I am turning the whole spindle on which it sits (rather than the nut itself) it seems this shouldn’t be loose, I 7nderstand it’s on a taper but how do I go about tackling this ?

many thanks ,pics below !
Make and Model of your Tractor....
If a MF,or Harry Ferguson, and or an "N" Ford ?
Do as per these pics of my 2-N Ford.
Same idea as I followed these pics for my MF 35. as well as my Harry Ferguson TEA-20.
I would remove the LEFT side AXEL / Housing ...
Left viewed from the REAR looking forward.
Bob..
 

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Make and Model of your Tractor....
If a MF,or Harry Ferguson, and or an "N" Ford ?
Do as per these pics of my 2-N Ford.
Same idea as I followed these pics for my MF 35. as well as my Harry Ferguson TEA-20.
I would remove the LEFT side AXEL / Housing ...
Left viewed from the REAR looking forward.
Bob..
Does the ring gear assembly just slide off the right axle then? Nothing else holding it in? How heavy is it?
 
Does the ring gear assembly just slide off the right axle then? Nothing else holding it in? How heavy is it?
Yes,the Ring Gear assembly just slides off the RIGHT AXEL.. (MF Service Manual)
Yes...Nothing else is holding the Ring Gear in.
Pics from an original MF service Manual..
MF 35,TO-35,50,202,& 204 Tractors
I was in my 20's when I removed the Diff, as per these pics (MF 35),by hand...:)
I'm in my 70's now. I would use a nylon sling and an over head lifting device,..eg chain hoist..

The pics of the 2-N FORD.....Differential,seemed easily handled.....I was in my late 60's.....:)

Harry Ferguson Original service manual,TEA-20 Ferguson,
Remove Differential assembly..same procedure As MF 35...and 2-N Ford.
 

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Hi , bit confused here… I’ve got an oil leak from the plate where the rear link arms join the trumpet housing , that’s my first query, how do I fix this?

my second dilemma is in order to do so I’m guessing I’ll need to remove trumpet housing but trying to undo the castellated nut I am turning the whole spindle on which it sits (rather than the nut itself) it seems this shouldn’t be loose, I 7nderstand it’s on a taper but how do I go about tackling this ?

many thanks ,pics below !
Your pic, indicates there is a strengthening plate attached to the AXEL Trumpet / Housing,that is leaking OIL. My experience with this type of arrangement is.......the LOWER LIFT pin likely shall have a STRAIGHT SHANK........Not a Tapper .
At some point, in the Serial numbers of the Ferguson Tractors,the Axel housings were designed thicker,with a FEMALE tapper ,as the NEW pins are a MALE Tapper.
Try binding the lower lift ARM and SELF ALIGNING BALL against the Lower lift pin portion that's inside the SELF ALIGNING BALL.
I have seen, the NUTS on the lower lift pins, CUT OFF the pin,and a new pin installed.
 

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Thanks John Deere D , I should have mentioned in the post it’s a TED20 ( uk built ) but looks very much the same process as your manuals for the 35, seems like I’ll need to tighten that nut on the other side but as far as stopping the leak goes from that cover plate would you try gasket sealant ? There is a gasket menti9ned in the workshop manual for later models but nothimg seems to exist!
 
Thanks John Deere D , I should have mentioned in the post it’s a TED20 ( uk built ) but looks very much the same process as your manuals for the 35, seems like I’ll need to tighten that nut on the other side but as far as stopping the leak goes from that cover plate would you try gasket sealant ? There is a gasket menti9ned in the workshop manual for later models but nothing seems to exist!
Here in Western Canada,any of my TEA 20 series Ferguson's(parts Tractors,6-Volt from Factory) that were assembled in Coventry England have straight shank lower pins. When these straight shank pins become loose in the Axel Housing,the female bore in the Axel housing becomes NO LONGER a ROUND BORE.
Oil then leaks to the outside as per yours. Replacing only the GASKET, most likely (99% sure)shall NOT STOP any oil leaking. On my Ford 2-N,I removed the Axel Housing,purchased a new lower pin,cleaned the BORE in the Axel housing with Starting Fluid / Either,made a new gasket,attached gasket to Axel Housing with Contact Cement,applied Blue Loctite to both the lower pin bore,as well as the new pin. Installed and torqued inner nut on Lower lift pin. I made sure the ambient temperature was 70 deg f >. I'm 100% satisfied.
I probably have 80 Hrs on the Tractor now and NO leaks.
You probably shall NOT be satisfied by only replacing the gasket.
There are those here on "YT" that have removed the PTO shaft,concocted some designed TOOL,inserted the tool into the PTO bore,and have reportedly tightened the inner nut on the lower lift pin.
Your $$$$'s your Tractor.
If the Tractor was mine,I would get the Tractor dismantled,with a micrometer etc,etc, measure the pin,and start checking into the 2-N,9-N, and Ferguson lower pin availability as well as those respective pin dimensions.
 
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Make and Model of your Tractor....
If a MF,or Harry Ferguson, and or an "N" Ford ?
Do as per these pics of my 2-N Ford.
Same idea as I followed these pics for my MF 35. as well as my Harry Ferguson TEA-20.
I would remove the LEFT side AXEL / Housing ...
Left viewed from the REAR looking forward.
Bob..
Hello, That stud leaked on my to35. I run the front end in a ditch so the oil would run to the front of the gear case, pulled the pto shaft out and got on the inside nut with a breaker bar and socket through the pto hole ........took it out......put sealer on it and put it back in and tightened it back up.....saves a lot of time and work.......Ed
 
Here in Western Canada,any of my TEA 20 series Ferguson's(parts Tractors,6-Volt from Factory) that were assembled in Coventry England have straight shank lower pins. When these straight shank pins become loose in the Axel Housing,the female bore in the Axel housing becomes NO LONGER a ROUND BORE.
Oil then leaks to the outside as per yours. Replacing only the GASKET, most likely (99% sure)shall NOT STOP any oil leaking. On my Ford 2-N,I removed the Axel Housing,purchased a new lower pin,cleaned the BORE in the Axel housing with Starting Fluid / Either,made a new gasket,attached gasket to Axel Housing with Contact Cement,applied Blue Loctite to both the lower pin bore,as well as the new pin. Installed and torqued inner nut on Lower lift pin. I made sure the ambient temperature was 7deg f >. I'm 100% satisfied.
I probably have 80 Hrs on the Tractor now and NO leaks.
You probably shall NOT be satisfied by only replacing the gasket.
There are those here on "YT" that have removed the PTO shaft,concocted some designed TOOL,inserted the tool into the PTO bore,and have reportedly tightened the inner nut on the lower lift pin.
Your $$$$'s your Tractor.
If the Tractor was mine,I would get the Tractor dismantled,with a micrometer etc,etc, measure the pin,and start checking into the 2-N,9-N, and Ferguson lower pin availability as well as those respective pin dimensions.
Thanks again John - that’s useful to know, yes I’ve just done some searching and looks like I can get the straight shanked one (original pre serial number 300,000 or so)

I’ve got to take the trumpet housing off in any case (well at least the axles themselves out to fit sure seals) so might as well have the trumpets off and inspect from there!
 
I too am interested in the sealer that Ed H.-OH used.

Hello JD. I have had my to35 for like 40 yrs, . I fixed that stud aprox, 20 yrs. ago and don't remember for sure, mine was tapered, and as long as it is tight there's little room for leakage, as i fixed mine as soon as it started leaking from loosening up, and it didn;t egg shape.....today i would use 100 pure silicone...thank you for responding........Ed
 

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