Rear main

[rube2112]

Hi, has anyone replaced the rear main seal on a ford 960 without splitting the tractor? I've never been inside these engines before. Thanks, Robb

 

[Hobo,NC]

B

Thread 'Please help!! Ford 800 rear main'

Jan 12, 2026

I’m trying to help my dad, he’s had My papaws 1963 ford 800 gas tractor apart 4-5 times and can’t keep it from leaking oil out of the rear main, He’s tried the rubber and rope seal he’s tried taking one out he’s tried silicone on the side holes and everything. Every time it starts back leaking bad. I feel bad for him as this was his dad’s tractor and he keeps trying and trying but nothing is fixing it. Any help is very much appreciated!! Local Ford dealer doesn’t know

• Bandit7
• Replies: 25
• Forum: Tractor & Farm Talk

 

[rube2112]

B

Thread 'Please help!! Ford 800 rear main'

Jan 12, 2026

I’m trying to help my dad, he’s had My papaws 1963 ford 800 gas tractor apart 4-5 times and can’t keep it from leaking oil out of the rear main, He’s tried the rubber and rope seal he’s tried taking one out he’s tried silicone on the side holes and everything. Every time it starts back leaking bad. I feel bad for him as this was his dad’s tractor and he keeps trying and trying but nothing is fixing it. Any help is very much appreciated!! Local Ford dealer doesn’t know

• Bandit7
• Replies: 25
• Forum: Tractor & Farm Talk

This thread didn't discuss whether it can be done without separating the transmission. Or i missed it?

 

[ErnieD]

I did it on a 871, there is a kit to help extract the rope seal. I broke the seal extractor after I got it started. Ended using a punch and short wooden dowels to chase the bits out. Use neoprene half seals as a replacement. The side seals are a pain, use the fel pro kit.. The nails went in not quite all the way and bent. If I did it again I would goober the side seals with rtv and forget the nails. Don't forget a dab of form a gasket on the main bearing halves. Youtube is your friend.

 

[pomester]

This thread didn't discuss whether it can be done without separating the transmission. Or i missed it?

Yes, it is possible to replace the rear main seal without splitting the tractor on these models. Drop the pan, drop the rear main cap (and if necessary the other main caps to allow the crank to drop a bit). Likely it is a split seal, hopefully someone didn't glue it into place, might be a rope seal. Remove the easy piece and use a stiff wire or some such to push the remaining piece around and out. It can be easy-peasy or a PITA. Lubricate the new seal, rotate it into place, goop up the sides of the rear main with an appropriate RTV type product, torque the caps.

 

[john in la]

You can remove the oil pan and rear cap to gain access to the rear main seal without removing the transmission.
It is a tedious job that based on past post by others I would say it has a 50/50 success rate.

If the crank has a worn spot from years of running on the seal you are just pissing in the wind because you can not get a speddi sleeve on the crank. In this case the crankshaft will have to come out so a machine shop can fix the journal.
I willing to bet this is 50% of the failure rate and the other 50% of the failure rate is just not getting a good seal because you are working on your back in a cramped area.

 

[showcrop]

The side seals are a pain in the but with it upside down on a stand. I did two of them two years ago, and if I were doing another, I would build a substantial pad from wood that I could fasten to steel uprights. You want to support it so that the back of the motor and the two side rails are supported at exactly the same height in relation to each other as they are when attached to the transmission.

 

[Plays with toys]

How much is it leaking? Some stop leak might help. Previous posters advice sounds acurate. I did a chevy350 way back in the day that way. pita. As long as there aren't major cross members in the way and yoy have clear access to the oil pan it shouldn't be that bad.

 

[Hobo,NC]

The side seals are a pain in the but with it upside down on a stand. I did two of them two years ago, and if I were doing another, I would build a substantial pad from wood that I could fasten to steel uprights. You want to support it so that the back of the motor and the two side rails are supported at exactly the same height in relation to each other as they are when attached to the transmission.

I never worked on a 960.

Will the pan come off in a normal fashion, why I ask I don't understand this.

" You want to support it so that the back of the motor and the two side rails are supported at exactly the same height in relation to each other as they are when attached to the transmission."

 

[pomester]

I never worked on a 960.

Will the pan come off in a normal fashion, why I ask I don't understand this.

" You want to support it so that the back of the motor and the two side rails are supported at exactly the same height in relation to each other as they are when attached to the transmission."

The pan will come off without any heroics. It's easier if you drain the hydraulics and remove the pump to transmission manifold.

 

[showcrop]

The pan will come off without any heroics. It's easier if you drain the hydraulics and remove the pump to transmission manifold.

Yes, you have to remove the manifold to split them, and with the row crops if you support just the side rails you can get it apart but back together it is very difficult to line both the motor and the rails up with the transmission. IIRC the manual says to remove one side rail, but I don't recall specifics.

 

[pomester]

Yes, you have to remove the manifold to split them, and with the row crops if you support just the side rails you can get it apart but back together it is very difficult to line both the motor and the rails up with the transmission. IIRC the manual says to remove one side rail, but I don't recall specifics.

"you have to remove the manifold to split them"

Agreed. The thread is about rear main seal replacement without splitting the tractor. Which is theoretically feasible, tho can be technically challenging.

I've split 900/901s several times and never had any real difficulty bolting them back together. I've supported them on the pan or block tho, not on the side rails. The hydraulic manifold is captive between the block and right side rail, I've only ever loosened the side rails to remove the manifold or to remove the engine for overhaul. The one time I did remove the engine I found the attachment of the rails to be kluged-up at the front. I don't remember the specifics right now, but there was some bushings or some pieces missing which wasn't obvious until disassembly.

 

[Btzj02]

If you choose to replace with the new style two part seal vs the original rope seal I would suggest ordering two sets of seals and pay shipping once. The edges of the seal spaces are sharp and I ruined the first seal when trying to slide it round the shaft. The sharp metal edge pealed off the edge of the seal almost immediately. If splitting a Row Crop the manual does say to completely remove the right side rail to allow clearance for the hydraulic pump and manifold, then remove the rear bolts only on the left rail and then roll the front axle away from the engine with left rail attached to the axle. Don't forget the front engine mount bolts.

 

[Btzj02]

You can see where the oil pan sits and once removed your job will be to pull out the indicated block to get at the seals.

 

[showcrop]

"you have to remove the manifold to split them"

Agreed. The thread is about rear main seal replacement without splitting the tractor. Which is theoretically feasible, tho can be technically challenging.

I've split 900/901s several times and never had any real difficulty bolting them back together. I've supported them on the pan or block tho, not on the side rails. The hydraulic manifold is captive between the block and right side rail, I've only ever loosened the side rails to remove the manifold or to remove the engine for overhaul. The one time I did remove the engine I found the attachment of the rails to be kluged-up at the front. I don't remember the specifics right now, but there was some bushings or some pieces missing which wasn't obvious until disassembly.

Yes the flex mounts at the front can be problematic. What is off to the right in the third picture? blocking? trailer jack?

 

[pomester]

Yes the flex mounts at the front can be problematic. What is off to the right in the third picture? blocking? trailer jack?

That's a fixture I made to keep the narrow front end stable while having the tractor split.