I bought a good tractor a year ago, and with my tractor came a complete H. The guy I bought it from took it completely apart to restore and never got around to working on it. I have pictures of what it looked like before and it's almost a shame to just part it out. I would like to get it back together, but I've never done anything this big and not taking it apart myself, I'm kind of lost. I'd appreciate any tips on getting it back together.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I'll tell you what my neighbor told me when I said I never overhauled a 1955 model Oliver Tractor or know much about them, YOU WILL WHEN YOU'RE DONE. Good luck chris, p.s. Did another engine after that for him that came in coffee cans and boxes, since I was the most familiar with them in the area.
Is that all you have is what is pictured ?
You are missing the main case and the engine parts if so. And if so then either sell what you have for parts or buy another complete tractor to restore and use some of what you do have.
A parts book for that model will be most helpful as it is fully illustrated in great detail and shows items in proper order and even gives bolt sizes and description.
You are missing the main case and the engine parts if so. And if so then either sell what you have for parts or buy another complete tractor to restore and use some of what you do have.
A parts book for that model will be most helpful as it is fully illustrated in great detail and shows items in proper order and even gives bolt sizes and description.
Pictures would help a lot - everybody's definition of "completely apart" is a little different.
First of all - depends on what your goal is - just get it together into basic running condition - or are you trying to restore it?
You're at a distinct disadvantage not knowing how it ran before.
You COULD just bolt everything back together as-is and hope for the best, but what you'll probably end up with is a tractor you'd like to take apart and fix up. Before doing anything - you might want to invite somebody over who has some experience to see if you even have all the parts you need. If you don't, a project like this can quickly get more expensive than buying a restored tractor.
First look at the rear tires. If they're junk - you're already in a pretty deep financial hole.
Check the fuel tank for holes - another potentially expensive problem.
But - assuming you have everything, and it's all in good shape...
Buy a service manual - don't go any further till you get one. That'll answer a lot of questions for you.
Then just start with the engine -- head/block/crankshaft - it's the area that's most likely in need of TLC that you need to rely on somebody else for. Bring the parts to a machinist to evaluate.
But you have to be careful - a machinist who builds race car engines is going to recommend a whole lot more work than a guy who's done some old tractor engines.
Then get into the transmission case. It's the most complicated area. Make sure everything is there, and you can shift gears. No missing teeth, no broken gears, etc. Go through the clutch. Make sure the clutch is tight on the crankshaft end... if not - could mean you need a new crankshaft $$$.
If you've got a good enough engine - and a complete tight transmission -you'll find the rest is pretty easy.
All the parts only go one way so to speak. It may be a little overwhelming to look at them now - but as you add parts to the tractor, the pile shrinks - and it just keeps making more and more sense as you go along.
But - you really have to WANT to complete it. It's GOING to be expensive.
Price the engine gasket kit - and the transmission gasket kit - you'll need those. That right there's a couple hundred dollars.
if you do paint it - the paint's expensive - and then there are decals...
And on and on - all the little parts add up.
Just the consumables alone - the cleaners, the rags, the wirebrushes, sand, gasket sealer, then tools you may not have, etc etc. You'd be surprised - it really all adds up, and up
First of all - depends on what your goal is - just get it together into basic running condition - or are you trying to restore it?
You're at a distinct disadvantage not knowing how it ran before.
You COULD just bolt everything back together as-is and hope for the best, but what you'll probably end up with is a tractor you'd like to take apart and fix up. Before doing anything - you might want to invite somebody over who has some experience to see if you even have all the parts you need. If you don't, a project like this can quickly get more expensive than buying a restored tractor.
First look at the rear tires. If they're junk - you're already in a pretty deep financial hole.
Check the fuel tank for holes - another potentially expensive problem.
But - assuming you have everything, and it's all in good shape...
Buy a service manual - don't go any further till you get one. That'll answer a lot of questions for you.
Then just start with the engine -- head/block/crankshaft - it's the area that's most likely in need of TLC that you need to rely on somebody else for. Bring the parts to a machinist to evaluate.
But you have to be careful - a machinist who builds race car engines is going to recommend a whole lot more work than a guy who's done some old tractor engines.
Then get into the transmission case. It's the most complicated area. Make sure everything is there, and you can shift gears. No missing teeth, no broken gears, etc. Go through the clutch. Make sure the clutch is tight on the crankshaft end... if not - could mean you need a new crankshaft $$$.
If you've got a good enough engine - and a complete tight transmission -you'll find the rest is pretty easy.
All the parts only go one way so to speak. It may be a little overwhelming to look at them now - but as you add parts to the tractor, the pile shrinks - and it just keeps making more and more sense as you go along.
But - you really have to WANT to complete it. It's GOING to be expensive.
Price the engine gasket kit - and the transmission gasket kit - you'll need those. That right there's a couple hundred dollars.
if you do paint it - the paint's expensive - and then there are decals...
And on and on - all the little parts add up.
Just the consumables alone - the cleaners, the rags, the wirebrushes, sand, gasket sealer, then tools you may not have, etc etc. You'd be surprised - it really all adds up, and up
Sheet metal looks great - that's a big plus.
Doesn't look like a lot of rot over all.
I'd say on the surface it's a worthwhile project.
But step number one really is to define exactly what you want the outcome to be, AND how much you are willing to spend to get there.
You are going to hit many decision points. Having a solid goal is going to help you make those decisions.
For example - do you just put the engine back together and live with the slop in the pistons and burn a little oil - do you hone the cylinders and put new rings to make it a little better - or do you bore them out and buy oversized pistons/rings. What about wrist pins... then you might want tighter bushings on the connecting rods - those are probably $50 each...
Do you go with the $30 a gallon fade paint, or the $300 a gallon good stuff.
Your end goal is going to make those types of decisions easier. As will a budget.
I'd guess you'd dump $1000 into it no matter what you do. Go up from there for a more thorough restoration.
Doesn't look like a lot of rot over all.
I'd say on the surface it's a worthwhile project.
But step number one really is to define exactly what you want the outcome to be, AND how much you are willing to spend to get there.
You are going to hit many decision points. Having a solid goal is going to help you make those decisions.
For example - do you just put the engine back together and live with the slop in the pistons and burn a little oil - do you hone the cylinders and put new rings to make it a little better - or do you bore them out and buy oversized pistons/rings. What about wrist pins... then you might want tighter bushings on the connecting rods - those are probably $50 each...
Do you go with the $30 a gallon fade paint, or the $300 a gallon good stuff.
Your end goal is going to make those types of decisions easier. As will a budget.
I'd guess you'd dump $1000 into it no matter what you do. Go up from there for a more thorough restoration.
41B-boy
Member
- Location
- Chehalis, WA
BEFORE and AFTER pics can be kinda heartbreaking, eh?
If that pile 'o iron was in my yard I'd be going for it all day long. I'm a bit envious; I have ALWAYS wanted an H!
If you part it out, you'll make lots of other H owners happy, if you re-assemble, you'll make yourself happy. Win/Win.
Bob
If that pile 'o iron was in my yard I'd be going for it all day long. I'm a bit envious; I have ALWAYS wanted an H!
If you part it out, you'll make lots of other H owners happy, if you re-assemble, you'll make yourself happy. Win/Win.
Bob
Mike Aylward
Well-known Member
The first thing you should get is a parts book for the tractor. Everyone who expects to work on their own tractor should have one. The exploded views in them will help you immensely in reassembling your tractor. That is too nice a tractor to part out, in my opinion. Mike
41B-boy
Member
- Location
- Chehalis, WA
JR,
Your comments are always so thoughtful and well reasoned. Your FFA kids are fortunate to have you as an adviser.
Bob
Your comments are always so thoughtful and well reasoned. Your FFA kids are fortunate to have you as an adviser.
Bob
Cockbird_Hunter
Member
Get the late Pat Browning's books from Charles Lindstrom to start. For this one I had 1.5 years labor & $8K in parts as I had to replace everything..... Outside too long w/ a freeze crack in every casting!
James Howell
Well-known Member
Nice looking tractor; very good work.
Thanks for sharing your photos with us.
Thanks for sharing your photos with us.
but I do appreciate the kind words. 41B-boy
Member
- Location
- Chehalis, WA
SUUWEET!!!
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Get a parts book and a Deere service manual and study the info in them. I bought a 2030 a few years ago and it was literally a basket case. Finally got it done and sold it. My manuals sure got a workout. There are just some adjustments, settings and clearances that have to be correct and the Deere manuals have this info. Aftermarket manuals are hit and miss.
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