bluediesel
Member
I just received my YESTERDAY'S TRACTOR rebuilt Delco Remy distributor. My question is what does most gear heads do on the lubrication of the shaft. Do you still use oil, or grease, synthetic grease? Just would like your opinion. Thanks for your time!
I'm old school, just turned 68, and remember "rebuilt" generators, starters, etc. When you got them back (our 30' store front rebuilder had a lot on the shelf ready to go)they had all new hardware, painted, ready to go. I had to send mine in to the rebuilder 2 days after paying for the rebuilt one. They were out of the drive dog to complete a rebuild. So I sent mine in right away. I had to anyway for the core charge. I had removed the cap,rotor,dust shield,points,condenser,and the points and condenser screws. All were shot including the screws that were original(1956)and they showed it. I found the shaft bouncing around and figure it needed a shaft or bushing or both. I figured I would treat myself and I would "Pay The Man" to get this distributor worked on by a professional. I sent a note along stating that I want new clips for the cap, and a NEW name tag, which I would pay for if it wasn't included. The unit came back with my old bushing,and my old dog! They must have gotten them in which was cool. My tag was wasted, had a cut in it, and I could only read 1111 out of 1111558. I wanted a new tag because I would scratch there paint job if I ordered one and had to get out the old rivets to replace it.BUT NO PROBLEM, they were out of Delco Remy tags, and out of the spring clips. PLUS they DO NOT paint them because they do not know what COLOR my tractor is. Wouldn't black be a good substitute? A REAL purest could scuff up the black and shoot it whatever. By the time I got it back it had surface rust in spots, being bead blasted clean (nice job of cleaning, thanks!). It had new tune up components, but the points and condenser screws were from the "coffee can" and both pan heads. No cam lube (that's OK), points were at a loose .024 not .022 (that's OK also).
Sorry to be so negative, but they must have hardware stores where a guy can buy two screws in Ohio. I do not usually "PAY THE MAN", I do my own work, just thought it would be a treat, to go from box to tractor, without getting my hands dirty. It will be 2017 and I better get used to it. If you took the time to read this, Thank You. (Please remember my original question and vote for which lube to use and THANKS again.)
I'm old school, just turned 68, and remember "rebuilt" generators, starters, etc. When you got them back (our 30' store front rebuilder had a lot on the shelf ready to go)they had all new hardware, painted, ready to go. I had to send mine in to the rebuilder 2 days after paying for the rebuilt one. They were out of the drive dog to complete a rebuild. So I sent mine in right away. I had to anyway for the core charge. I had removed the cap,rotor,dust shield,points,condenser,and the points and condenser screws. All were shot including the screws that were original(1956)and they showed it. I found the shaft bouncing around and figure it needed a shaft or bushing or both. I figured I would treat myself and I would "Pay The Man" to get this distributor worked on by a professional. I sent a note along stating that I want new clips for the cap, and a NEW name tag, which I would pay for if it wasn't included. The unit came back with my old bushing,and my old dog! They must have gotten them in which was cool. My tag was wasted, had a cut in it, and I could only read 1111 out of 1111558. I wanted a new tag because I would scratch there paint job if I ordered one and had to get out the old rivets to replace it.BUT NO PROBLEM, they were out of Delco Remy tags, and out of the spring clips. PLUS they DO NOT paint them because they do not know what COLOR my tractor is. Wouldn't black be a good substitute? A REAL purest could scuff up the black and shoot it whatever. By the time I got it back it had surface rust in spots, being bead blasted clean (nice job of cleaning, thanks!). It had new tune up components, but the points and condenser screws were from the "coffee can" and both pan heads. No cam lube (that's OK), points were at a loose .024 not .022 (that's OK also).
Sorry to be so negative, but they must have hardware stores where a guy can buy two screws in Ohio. I do not usually "PAY THE MAN", I do my own work, just thought it would be a treat, to go from box to tractor, without getting my hands dirty. It will be 2017 and I better get used to it. If you took the time to read this, Thank You. (Please remember my original question and vote for which lube to use and THANKS again.)
