Remove throttle spring 335MM

[Minniemo]

I have a Minneapolis Moline 335. The throttle does not stay down on its own. I have to hold it down. Does anyone know how to fix this problem or the steps to removing the throttle arm to get at the spring behind the dash?
Any help appreciated.

 

[Alan K]

As far as I know the only way to get at the spring is to remove the fuel tank. At least that is the way it looks on my 5 Star. I did buy the nylon "friction cone" for it but havent put it in yet. I dont remember what it cost. $12 to 20, somewhere in there. Not sure if a stronger spring will help or what to do with them. Kevin Moschenrose on here should know. He has a lot of 5 Stars and knows alot about them.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I think what you are saying is that the throttle doesn't stay in the open position when you pull it back.
This was happening on my 335. I got one of those plastic friction pieces from Welters. 417-498-6496. On mine it turned out the roll pin in the plastic had sheared, allowing it to turn on the shaft. It was pretty well worn too, so it was time for the new one anyway.

To get at it you will have to remove the top and right side of the hood. I was able to fix mine without removing the tank, but the clearances are tight and the arm at the bottom of the throttle shaft is cast and could break, so it might be best to remove the tank.

The tension spring has a washer and a cotter pin through the shaft below it. You will have to remove that cotter pin too.(I think-it may be another roll pin.)

You will have to remove the arm pinned to the lower end throttle shaft. It has a roll pin through it that you will have to drive out and in my case it was rusted pretty tight to the shaft so it took some working to get it to slide off the bottom of the shaft.

I am thinking that if you turn the steering wheel to the right place, the throttle arm will slide up and out between the spokes.

Then of course, you reverse the procedure to reassemble it.

One thing I did to mine was to add a 7/16 shaft collar to the top of the shaft above and against the friction piece. That way the roll pin in the friction piece doesn't have to take all the linear force of the spring as well as the twisting forces that are applied to it.

 

[Minniemo]

Thanks T.R.K. Do you remember if the part that the plastic cone fits in, unscrews from the tractor. I'm wondering if the roll pin at the bottom of the shaft could be replaced with a cotter pin if I ever get it out? Minneapolis definitely did not make this too user friendly, did they?

 

[JK2]

The piece that the friction cone seats in is held in the dash support by an allen screw accessed from the right side of the tractor. They are usually difficult to get out. The normal cause of the roll pin breaking is that the nylon cone rusts fast to the mating piece then someone pulls hard on the throttle handle. The inside of the mating piece becomes pitted and wears the nylon cone if it isn't smoothed when installing a new nylon cone. A cotter pin in the lower throttle lever won't last very long because they are soft.
John

 

[Anonymous-0]

actually, I am thinking it was machined in the housing on my 335, Or at least I didn't have to remove it to put the new friction cone in.

It is different from the Jetstar, and Big Mo 400M, Those tractors do have a removable piece with the taper for the friction cone machined in it.