You can tell what year the engine is by the serial number. It's on the left side of the block, below the head & behind the oil filter canister. If the serial number & casting codes on other parts match (or are close) then the entire tractor is probably the same year as the engine.
John Smith's site can tell you all about casting codes.
http://www.oldfordtractors.com/idhistory.htm
To remove the hood, after you get the 4 bolts off of the dash, remove the wire going to the head lights. Then, w/ the gas off, unscrew the fuel line at the carb. If the tank is full, you should drain the gas out. Then, get a couple of saw horses to put the hood on when you get it off. Remove the two bolts at the bottom of the dog legs. The grill is held in place by to hinges at the top & the dog legs at the bottom. After the dog leg bolts are out, the grill will fall out.....usually on your foot. Pull the hood forward about an inch, then up to clear the radiator neck. It should be easy after that. A helper makes it much easier.
You will also need to remove the steering wheel.
There are a number of ways to remove the steering wheel, most of which work & some of which will damage the threads, column or wheel. The best way is a special puller (not a gear puller) that hooks under the spokes; you also need a rod to go inside the hollow steering column to keep the end of it from mushrooming when you screw down on the puller. The acorn nut is not strong enough the let you get away w/ this. Because I don't have a puller, what I do is remove the acorn nut the night before the wheel needs to come off & soak the column where the wheel attaches w/ PB Blaster. The next day, I put the nut back on 3 or 4 turns, get up on the tractor & start pulling/tugging on the wheel. 1 out of 3 times, it comes off. If it doesn't, I get out 2 hammers, a 2 lb & a 4 or 5lb. I place the head of the heavier hammer on the hub of the wheel just where the spokes attach & then start hitting it from the opposite side w/ the smaller hammer. I go all the way around the wheel like that 2 or 3 times. It's called "swagging" the metal. Then, back on the seat for a pull & tug session. The longest it has ever taken me is another oil soak & tapping drill to get one off. The last time I pulled one, it popped off as soon as I started tapping w/ the hammers. Some folks speed the process along by using an air impact tool with a blunt tool in it; they get under one of the spokes and push up. The vibration helps break the rust bond.
Once you get it pulled down that far, you will see 4 bolts hold the dash support on & 4 bolts holding the box on the chassis. And, of course, the nuts holding the Pitman arms on.
See tip # 39 for my suggestions on the manuals.
50 Tips
