Replace the tire or keep it?

[Brian60950]

2N.

11.2 - 28" paddle tread.

They're both dry-rotted and cracks are exposed when they're flat. Both need new inner tubes but the right needs a new outer rim too.

They have good tread on 'em so I'm wondering if it's worth risking the cost of labor, inner tube & ballast to re-use the tire.

Do these things ever explode?

 

[redcollector]

Iv seen a many dryrotted tires blow out. they are usually severly dryrotted when they blow out. all depends on what your plans are for the tractor. if the rim is just rotted out around the valve stem hole you can cut the bad section out and relocate the valve stem to a new spot. If its more than the valve stem hole than replacement is best. I know tires and rims are expensive but if your gonna use it and keep for awhile then atleast you will know what ya got. Is the rest of the tractor worth the price of new tires and rims as well?

 

[flembo]

I have 3 tractors with different degrees of dry cracked tires. They hold air and the tread is good so fine by me. Been using them for close to ten yrs.

 

[jon]

Every one I've seen was dry on the outside but dark & solid on the in.
Your mileage may vary but I'd run 'em til they did blow up.
Of course it all depends on funds & what you use it for.

 

[Brian60950]

(quoted from post at 19:04:21 02/19/14) Iv seen a many dryrotted tires blow out. they are usually severly dryrotted when they blow out. all depends on what your plans are for the tractor. if the rim is just rotted out around the valve stem hole you can cut the bad section out and relocate the valve stem to a new spot. If its more than the valve stem hole than replacement is best. I know tires and rims are expensive but if your gonna use it and keep for awhile then atleast you will know what ya got. Is the rest of the tractor worth the price of new tires and rims as well?

All of these 9N/2N/8N tractors are irreplaceable because they were built in the USA & prior to "planned obsolescence". They're good machines & it's no surprise that so many of them are still running & being worked in the fields.

Regardless of whether this particular machine is worth the investment for new tires/rims, there are still plenty of them around & if this one ever blows up or becomes too expensive to repair for some reason, I'll buy an 8N & have lots of interchangeable spare parts.

If I had the means I'd buy a whole bunch of these things before some evil farm version of "cash for clunkers" comes around & reduces their numbers.

But I'm not rich & my dad (who actually owns the tractor) is retired & not rich either. And even before he retired at 60% salary, he was always a cheapskate. I had a hell of a time the other day just convincing him the right rim needs replaced.

 

[old]

I have used many many used dry rotted tires over the years and as long as the tube is not sticking out of them I use them and some even have boots in them. Have one machine that I was told I needed to replace the tires on 15 plus years ago and have yet to replace them. Have new set in the back of the shed for it but so far have not found a reason to replace then yet

 

[Royse]

A little cracking on the outside doesn't bother them.
If they're cracked through and pinching holes in the tube
that's another story. Maybe a boot would help, maybe not.

As to the cost of labor, are you changing them yourself or paying
someone else to do it? Can be huge difference. I change my own.

I also watch auction sales and CraigsList for deals.
I bought this matched pair of Firestones a while back for $300 on
Case rims, then sold the rims for $100. So I got "new" tires and
tubes for $100 each. Not too bad a price in my opinion!

 

[TL (Va)]

At the correct tire pressure (12-15psi) I doubt that they will ever explode.

 

[Brian60950]

(quoted from post at 20:23:59 02/19/14) A little cracking on the outside doesn't bother them.
If they're cracked through and pinching holes in the tube
that's another story. Maybe a boot would help, maybe not.

guess I'll find out when I get the tire off the rim.

As to the cost of labor, are you changing them yourself or paying
someone else to do it? Can be huge difference. I change my own.

How exactly does one go about removing the tire from the rim? I figure you need a machine. But that's also what I thought a few years ago until I saw a guy change a semi-truck tire with two crowbars & a month later I did it myself when another truck tire blew out on me.

If I can do it myself I'll do it myself. But I always have bad luck with tires that have inner tubes. Several times on motorcycle tires I've punctured the inner tube with the prybar when I was putting the tire back on. I know what I'm doing, ... just clumsy I guess.

 

[Royse]

You change them the same way, but the bigger ones are actually
easier. Up to a point anyway. The 11.2/12.4 size are easy.
Hardest part is getting the bead broke loose.

Many ways to do that, use a bumper jack under a truck/tractor,
drive over it (I don't like this method), use a front end loader to
push it down, there's a tire slide hammer that works well, or the
little press things like the one I use to break them loose.

After that, it's basically the two pry bar method. Use round nose,
not sharp tire tools or pry bars to avoid poking holes in the tube.
Keep the opposite side of the tire in the center of the rim and
they come off easily.

I change them with the rim on the tractor now days. The tractor
holds the rim still for you and if it were to fall it only drops to the
rim instead of the axle hitting the ground.

To prevent pinching the tube, put the tire half on the rim, then
put the tube in the tire and air it up. Not overly full, but firm.
Aired up the tube will slide away from obstacles and your pry
bars so you don't pinch it.

Use one of the wire valve stem guides to pull the stem into the
hole in the rim.

Here's a video of about what I'm talking about. This guy does
not air the tube up first. You Tube

Here's the tool I use to break the beads.

 

[maxwell99]

I just bought a new set of rear tires for my little ferguson to-35.
new tires, tubes and fluid transferred
$900 out the door

so I guess its worth working on the old tires, the used tires I had were still up and running.
I sold them to another guy for $50 each.

in fact the tire dealer told me, If he was going to do a lot of bushhoging he would rather have my old tires so as not to ruin a new tire.

 

[old]

I have a tool sort of like that but better. It has 2 air cylinders on it. One clamps the tool to the rim and the other pushed the foot down to break the bead loose. It say it is a truck tire bead breaker tool. I found it in a person junk pile years ago after he told me to take anything and all I wanted. Opened it up cleaned it up oiled it up and have used it now for over 2 decades. Works the same as that one just uses air to do the work

 

[Colin King]

You'd be surprised how much use you can get out of a badly checked set of tires. They're tough buggers. As long as they're not falling apart on you, try to use them and save your $$$.

Colin, MN

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 23:19:36 02/19/14) You'd be surprised how much use you can get out of a badly checked set of tires. They're tough buggers. As long as they're not falling apart on you, try to use them and save your $$$.

Colin, MN

No argument with that Colin! That was my thinking with
watching the auctions and CL until you can find a deal.
Then change them yourself to save even more.
One trip to the tire shop will pay for the bead breaker.

 

[souNdguy]

checks and cracks aren't a deal kilelr.

bead seperations are.

if the tire casing can be removed from the bad rim and put on the new one with a new tube I'd run it.

I'd do them myself and save the labor. rear tires are easier to break down than fronts IMHO

 

[Anonymous-0]

1953 NAA here. Just replaced a rear, with new. Dry rot thru and pinched tube = flat tire. Dry rotted so bad, did not even try boot. Tire guy did not have used ($100+), so had to go with new at $300. Tire that was replaced was better than 20 years old. Been so cold and so much snow here this year, just been using tractor a lot. Not made of money, but she has been a very good tractor, so....spending $ does not bother me. So confident on new tire, drove it a couple miles down the road to plow a good neighbor out.

 

[WW2N]

I have access to all the tire hand tools my buddy owns they will not fit my hands. I go to the tire shop and pay,to me its money well spent. I refuse to abuse my body with tires. If you don't have cord showing use them.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you fix the tube but still have rot at the valve stem and don't want or have access to a welder try some JB Weld. Place a washer over the hole with the approximant opening for the valve stem and JB Weld it to the rim. This will keep the valve stem in place. I've done this myself.

 

[Brian60950]

(quoted from post at 18:12:48 02/20/14) If you fix the tube but still have rot at the valve stem and don't want or have access to a welder try some JB Weld. Place a washer over the hole with the approximant opening for the valve stem and JB Weld it to the rim. This will keep the valve stem in place. I've done this myself.

hen I was about 13 I had a rock make a hole in the crankcase of a 2-stroke dirtbike.

The hole was on the part that shrouds the flywheel, not the crankcase itself. I pulled the points cover off & put electrical tape over the outside of the hole & painted JB Weld onto the tape from the inside. The next day I peeled the tape off, put the points cover back on & the repair lasted at least two years until I gave the bike away.