Replacement Coil

[super99]

Is this one of them Olivers with a vacuum advance? I know in the automotive world the pivots in the points mounting plates could get worn and then the points gap would not be kept the stable through the advance stroke. Ford Autolite distributors were bad for that.

Yes it was. John Schwiebert told me to unhook it and drill a hole in the plate and bolt it solid. Did that a couple of years ago and it worked good. Checked it also, everything still tight.

 

[super99]

If the distributor cam shaft bushing is worn, it will act like that. If you can move that shaft Up Bown Toward engine or away it is in need of a rebuild. Jim

I think it's OK but I'll double check it.

 

[John T]

Thanks for the update here are my thoughts now ifffff the points, plugs, wires, cap n rotor snd condensor are all okay ????

Maybe it’s a fuel instead of an ignition issue ???????????????????????????

For no more cost or trouble go ahead and swap out the condenser. If that’s not the problem sure check for excess distributor shaft wobble as that can cause problems or try a different one ?

Insure fuel delivery to the carb Via any filters or sediment bowls etc is good and full. Insure there’s good flow to and through the needle and seat. Insure float level is adequate. Does choking seem to help ???

Lots of good advice above let us know what you find

John T

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

It has a 12 volt coil with built in resistor on it now, that way when I got it. Wiring harness was new put on by previous owner. New plugs, wires and cap 200 hours ago. I looked at points and they look new, wondering about the condenser, I have a new one I could put in the next time it rains. Inside of the cap looks good. If had been running great, idle to full throttle with no hesitation and then started sputtering when under a load from 1700 to 2000 rpm and then smooth out to wide open, steadily got worse to sputtering anytime I push throttle all the way open or under a load. Last resort, I have another 1550 that I could switch distributors to see if it changes.

Are you sure it's not a carburetor problem. Mine sputters and stalls easily till it warms up some. I think it's the carb, the idle needle has almost no effect and I think it may be a little too lean. I went through the carb when I got it, had some rust inside, but need to do it again, better. New condensers can be risky. I put new points/condenser in my AC G and it wouldn't start. It would sputter some at times. I got carried away cranking it till I let the smoke out of the starter. I put the old condenser back in and it ran fine.

 

[John T]

Are you sure it's not a carburetor problem. Mine sputters and stalls easily till it warms up some. I think it's the carb, the idle needle has almost no effect and I think it may be a little too lean. I went through the carb when I got it, had some rust inside, but need to do it again, better. New condensers can be risky. I put new points/condenser in my AC G and it wouldn't start. It would sputter some at times. I got carried away cranking it till I let the smoke out of the starter. I put the old condenser back in and it ran fine.

Looks like we’re asking the same question question (.my post below) if perhaps it’s a fuel instead of an ignition problem ?? If everything about the ignition is okay.

John T

 

[super99]

We got rained out this morning so I got to work on the 1550. I went thru my stash and have 2 sets of points, 3 condensers and a new cap. I changed the condenser and took it for a test drive. Definite improvement but still a couple hundred rpm hesitation. then I tried pulling the choke just a bit when it did it and it came right out of it and ran great. I tried opening the load screw a turn and then another but still had to pull the choke a little. Next step will be to take the carb apart and clean/check it over. Thanks for the help so far, As I think about it, when this all started a year or so ago the most common reply was to replace the distributor with a non vacume advance one and that's when John suggested bolting the movable plate solid. As soon as I can figure out why the ice maker in the fridge quit working, I can get back to work on it.

 

[John T]

We got rained out this morning so I got to work on the 1550. I went thru my stash and have 2 sets of points, 3 condensers and a new cap. I changed the condenser and took it for a test drive. Definite improvement but still a couple hundred rpm hesitation. then I tried pulling the choke just a bit when it did it and it came right out of it and ran great. I tried opening the load screw a turn and then another but still had to pull the choke a little. Next step will be to take the carb apart and clean/check it over. Thanks for the help so far, As I think about it, when this all started a year or so ago the most common reply was to replace the distributor with a non vacume advance one and that's when John suggested bolting the movable plate solid. As soon as I can figure out why the ice maker in the fridge quit working, I can get back to work on it.

Thanks for another update. For sure check the carb and gas delivery to it next as needing choke sounds like you may also have a fuel delivery or carb issue ???? In addition to any possible ignition … You will have her purrin like a cat in a creamery soon !!!

John T

 

[super99]

After I got the ice maker working, I took the carb apart and everything was clean inside, squirted carb cleaner thru all of the holes and put it back together. Cleaned the sediment bowl, just a little crap in the bottom and put on a new gas filter. Took it for a drive, still just a little hesitation about 1800 rpm but if I pull the choke out 1/4" it runs like a raped ape, good enough for now. I'm going on a church ride Sunday so I'll see how it runs on that. The distributor shaft is tight.

 

[JOCCO]

If you are pulling choke it is definitely a fuel issue. Could be seals or bushings on carb shafts.

 

[Princeton Bill]

We got rained out this morning so I got to work on the 1550. I went thru my stash and have 2 sets of points, 3 condensers and a new cap. I changed the condenser and took it for a test drive. Definite improvement but still a couple hundred rpm hesitation. then I tried pulling the choke just a bit when it did it and it came right out of it and ran great. I tried opening the load screw a turn and then another but still had to pull the choke a little. Next step will be to take the carb apart and clean/check it over. Thanks for the help so far, As I think about it, when this all started a year or so ago the most common reply was to replace the distributor with a non vacume advance one and that's when John suggested bolting the movable plate solid. As soon as I can figure out why the ice maker in the fridge quit working, I can get back to work on it.

Just got back from the WHO ride. Too bad you missed it, the temperatures were delightful. The 1550 Cockshutt was doing the same thing. Put in a set of points and adjusted the carb and she ran great the rest of the ride.

 

[John T]

After I got the ice maker working, I took the carb apart and everything was clean inside, squirted carb cleaner thru all of the holes and put it back together. Cleaned the sediment bowl, just a little crap in the bottom and put on a new gas filter. Took it for a drive, still just a little hesitation about 1800 rpm but if I pull the choke out 1/4" it runs like a raped ape, good enough for now. I'm going on a church ride Sunday so I'll see how it runs on that. The distributor shaft is tight.

Thanks again. If it takes choking to cure the problem and the ignition is all okay (still may be problem) again I suspect a fuel delivery getting to the carb (filter, gas tank outlet or venting, line or sediment bowl etc ) or carb problem Keep at it

John T

 

[Janicholson]

Thanks again. If it takes choking to cure the problem and the ignition is all okay (still may be problem) again I suspect a fuel delivery getting to the carb (filter, gas tank outlet or venting, line or sediment bowl etc ) or carb problem Keep at it

John T

Agree!!! If the engine needs a bit of choke (and can run that way for extended time) the delivery is not likely the issue. If it were, the added consumption from using the choke would be very temporary. It still has carb issues. Maybe a low float level, or a larger main jet. Jim

 

[racered57]

Might check the intake manifold bolts, and gasket.
I use a propane probe for air leaks.

 

[John T]

Might check the intake manifold bolts, and gasket.
I use a propane probe for air leaks.

Good point if she’s sitting there running badly and you direct some propane where there’s a possible vacuum leak and she speeds up and smoothes out you found it yayyyyy. A country boy can survive

John T

 

[JOCCO]

I have used a can of Eather for that to, some carb sprays will work.