resistor

[Jimbos 8n]

Does a 1950 8n have a ballast resistor? And where would it be located, how can I tell if its bad, and where do I get a new one. The 6v coil I just put on says "not for use with external resistor". Did I get the wrong coil? Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[old]

Front or side mount distributor??? A 1950 could be either one since the end of the front mount run ended in 1950 and the start if the side mount started in 1950. I figure since you say what you did about the coil it is a side mount. Now is your tractor 6 or 12 volts?? If it say no external resister needed sounds like you have a 12 volt coil as in it is wound in such a way the is is made to work with a 12 volt system. If it said external resister needed then that would be one wound to work on a 6 volt system or a 12 volt with a resister

 

[Jimbos 8n]

Mine is a side mounted 6v distibutor. The coil is a 6v with the saying" Not for use with external resistor". I got it from TSC.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Jimbos........would you believe ONLY the 4-nipple squarecan frontmount dizzy uses the "infamous ballast resistor" mounted on the backside of the dashboard underneath the AMP meter. Would it surprize you to learn that the "infamous ballast resistor" is like yer litebulb, it either works or it don't. The 6-volt 5-nipple sidemount NEVER used enny resistor. Some bubba 12V conversions use a ceramic 12-to-6V converting resistor (burnie-burnie).

There are OTHER 6V roundcan ignition systems that use EXTERNAL resistor. The 6V 5-nipple roundcan dizzy NEVER used a resistor. ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[Bruce (VA)]

The short answer to your question is no, a sidemount 6v 8N did not come w/ a ballast resistor.

But the bigger question is: why are you replacing the coil in the first place? A bad 6v round coil is pretty rare.
50 Tips

 

[Jimbos 8n]

Because after it has been running it wont start again until its cold. It's the only thing left. I have new wires, new ignition switch, new condenser, and new points. Dont know what else could be causing it.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 06:21:52 07/26/12) Because after it has been running it wont start again until its cold. It's the only thing left. I have new wires, new ignition switch, new condenser, and new points. Dont know what else could be causing it.

s I understand you, it runs, runs even when full warmed up (hot), but when you turn it off, it won't re-start until cold. If this is correct understanding, then it will probably re-start hot if you pull start it & your problem is likely a worn out engine with low compression. Please post back upon new coil installation.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Jimbos........replace yer frickin' weaksister ignition switch AGAIN!!! They are known to be bad right outta the box. And it takes about 1-hr to cool down to restart again ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[Anonymous-0]

I actually only run the tractor for a minute or two and then it wont start. I wouldnt say the engine is hot, warm at best. Do you still think its low compression? The engine sounds good and feels like plenty of power. Doesnt smoke or burn oil, just leaks a little from the drain plug. Thank you.

 

[oldtanker]

(quoted from post at 03:02:37 07/27/12) I actually only run the tractor for a minute or two and then it wont start. I wouldnt say the engine is hot, warm at best. Do you still think its low compression? The engine sounds good and feels like plenty of power. Doesnt smoke or burn oil, just leaks a little from the drain plug. Thank you.

Check the fuel flow.....and spark both when it quits right way. What you are describing sounds like you need to check out Bruce's 50 tips.

Rick

 

[Anonymous-0]

I noticed on the 50 tips that they said on the can type coil with positive ground that the positive lead on the coil should go to the distibuter (points). I currently have my negative side of the coil going to the distibuter.(I only did this because thats how the old one was wired) Do you think this could be the problem? It is getting fuel.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 07:37:33 07/27/12) I noticed on the 50 tips that they said on the can type coil with positive ground that the positive lead on the coil should go to the distibuter (points). I currently have my negative side of the coil going to the distibuter.(I only did this because thats how the old one was wired) Do you think this could be the problem? It is getting fuel.

No, +/- wiring is not your problem (swap it for a 'feel good') and I back off on the compression since you now tell me that "running" means 0ne or two minutes. I still have the qiestion, however, of Does it stop running after the 1 or 2 minutes on its own accord, or does the operator turn it OFF after the 1 or 2 minutes?

 

[Anonymous-0]

I turned it off. The tractor will run all day if I let it.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" I actually only run the tractor for a minute or two and then it wont start."

Ahh hah!

Three days later & 6 replies, and we finally get some precise information.

With that little tidbit, we are now back to a simple diagnostic check: spark or fuel?

Next time it refuses to start, check quickly for fuel then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. Do not wait a minute or two. First, check for fuel. Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. Let it run for at least 30 seconds. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel problem. So, next, turn the key on, crank the engine & look at the ammeter. What is the needle doing? Does it show a constant discharge, no movement at all, or does it move back & forth slightly? Next, get the old plug, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine, turn the key on & crank the engine. If the spark jumps the 3/16” gap, you probably don’t have a spark problem. If it won’t jump the 3/16” gap, you have a spark problem. If the ammeter needle shows a constant discharge, or doesn’t move at all, that also tells you that you have a spark problem. Jump the ignition switch w/ your jumper wire & see what happens. If it runs, you found the problem. If it doesn’t have spark after you jump the ignition switch, post back for more info on further troubleshooting. (and do not forget to turn the ignition switch off; see tip # 38)



If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9)



There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! That’s why removing the 7/16” bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to check for fuel. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ¼” in the open air. Remember, it’s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air creates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running. A store bought plug checker will work better than an old plug because it won’t shock the snot out of you like an old plug might!
50 Tips

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 12:44:15 07/27/12) " I actually only run the tractor for a minute or two and then it wont start."

Ahh hah!

Three days later & 6 replies, and we finally get some precise information.

With that little tidbit, we are now back to a simple diagnostic check: spark or fuel?

Next time it refuses to start, check quickly for fuel then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. Do not wait a minute or two. First, check for fuel. Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. Let it run for at least 30 seconds. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel problem. So, next, turn the key on, crank the engine & look at the ammeter. What is the needle doing? Does it show a constant discharge, no movement at all, or does it move back & forth slightly? Next, get the old plug, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine, turn the key on & crank the engine. If the spark jumps the 3/16” gap, you probably don’t have a spark problem. If it won’t jump the 3/16” gap, you have a spark problem. If the ammeter needle shows a constant discharge, or doesn’t move at all, that also tells you that you have a spark problem. Jump the ignition switch w/ your jumper wire & see what happens. If it runs, you found the problem. If it doesn’t have spark after you jump the ignition switch, post back for more info on further troubleshooting. (and do not forget to turn the ignition switch off; see tip # 38)



If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9)



There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! That’s why removing the 7/16” bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to check for fuel. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ¼” in the open air. Remember, it’s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air creates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running. A store bought plug checker will work better than an old plug because it won’t shock the snot out of you like an old plug might!
50 Tips

ometimes, Bruce, extracting information is like pulling teeth. I think you will take good care of him now. See ya later.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Amen.