Right or Wrong???

[Keith-IN(US)]

I have a 1950 TO-20, and I am kind of curious about something.. I am going to call them radius arms, because I am lacking a better term for them right now.. But the they ar the arms that go from the center of tractor down below the steering cloumn up to the front and then are "C" shaped around the front axle with a bolt going thru them.. Well anyways if you are sitting on the tractor the on the left of the tractor has slight upward bend in it, while the one on the right of the tractor is fairly straight.. I didn't know if the left one is bent for a reason or if has been damged before.. If so do I need to replace it, or try to bend it back, or just leave it alone.. Anyone have any insight on this I would appreciate it...

 

[Jerry/MT]

It's bent for a reason. The reason is that someone hit something with the left wheel hard enough to bend it (Grin). It's called a Radius Rod in parts manual.
How does it steer? If it were me and it pulled to that side, I'd replace it right away. If it steered Ok I'd keep an eye peeled for another one and replace it when I had the chance. If it was a show tractor, I'd replace it right away, too.By the way, left and right interchange.

I think that it may be a forged part so I don't know how you'd straighten it. Maybe with a big press? There are guys on the forum that could probably tell you how to though. What does the LH axle extension look like? It could be damaged also.

 

[Anonymous-0]

it is hollow, and can be re-bent, not uncommonly broken

 

[Anonymous-0]

The usual reason for both radius rods being bent is a very worn center axle pivot pin. Fairly straight forward job to replace the pivot pin and bush.
Pivot pin & bush

 

[Keith-IN(US)]

It does tend to pull to this side while driving it.. I work INa Toold&Die shop, we worj with presses everyday, maybe I will give it a shot at rebending it... The axle exstension on this side looks to be fine to me, the only thing that I can see that might be wrong it where this piece mounts to the front axle, where the bolt goes thru it is a little sloppy. I just figured that I could make a brass sleeve to slie down in it and take the slopp out of it, what you think good idea or not.. If I am unable to bend it back and make it look right, does anyone have an idea where I could possibly find one???

 

[Keith-IN(US)]

It does tend to pull to this side while driving it.. I work in a Toold&Die shop, we work with presses everyday, maybe I will give it a shot at rebending it... The axle exstension on this side looks to be fine to me, the only thing that I can see that might be wrong it where this piece mounts to the front axle, where the bolt goes thru it is a little sloppy. I just figured that I could make a brass sleeve to slie down in it and take the slopp out of it, what you think good idea or not.. If I am unable to bend it back and make it look right, does anyone have an idea where I could possibly find one???

 

[Keith-IN(US)]

Sorry for the duplicate reply above.. I walked away and forgot that I already hit the buton and then hit again.. SORRY... Once again thanks again for the quick replies.. So does anyone have any ideas where I could possibly find one of these parts to replace the bent one??

 

[greenbank]

Fortunately, my radius arms aren't bent, but this is how worn my piot pin and bush were today when I removed them from my TO-35. I could rock the axle through an arc of 45 degrees once I removed the radius rods. Worth checking if you're in there.

 

[GrampaJack]

Keith, keep an eye on ebay. There is regularly people parting out tractors and one will show up. Right now a guy called "fatherof14" has a lot of parts. You might be able to contact him and see if he has them. Jack

 

[gerard]

As post above says, these arms are hollow tubes. Doesn't take much to bend (or straighten) them. Either take it off & put it in a press, or use a piece of hardwood and a lump hammer.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Using a press is worth a try. The worst thing that can happen is that you'll break it and have to get a replacement and if you can't staighten it, you'll have to do that anyway.

Make sure that the bolt is the right size. The parts manual calls for a 5/8" x 2-7/8" NF hex bolt. It's probably a grade 5 or 8 bolt. There shouldnt be much slop in these holes unless someone ran it loose for a while. Take a real close look at that axle extension and the axle itself to make sure that it isn't bent also.
I don't see anything wrong with trying to bush it but you'll have to ream it to a uniform size to do that and you'll loose some strength depending upon how much you ream out. May have to drop a bolt size also.

A far as a replacement, look on ebay or check a local tractor salvage yard

 

[gerard]

As post above says, these arms are hollow tubes. Easily bent (and straightened). Either take it off & put it in a press, or use a piece of hardwood and a lump hammer in situ.

 

[Jerry/MT]

These radius rods on my TO-30 are a forged part and not a hollow tube. They have an I beam cross section.

 

[Anonymous-0]

You could use a front end loader on another tractor to apply upward or downward force. Don't concentrate it, or you'll make a kink. Because the rear ball joints are about 12 inches apart, you will always be flexing or twisting something in the front end if you go over bumps. It's the physics of the thing. This may cause holes to loosen, until they allow the motion without bending. The center pin joint doesn't have near as much "wheelbase" as the radius rods front bolts. If they are tight, they'll keep the stress off the center pivot. I wouldn't drill out the axle holes. Thin sleeves wouldn't hurt. Enlarged bolts or machined pins would be better. If you were near such a place, you can build up the bolts with hard-chroming. (mask the threads.) Make sure they bake the bolts afterward,(routine in a plating shop) or they'll develop cracks.

 

[Anonymous-0]

You are referring to the Radius Rods. If they bend up-wards in the middle this is due to the Front Axle pivot pin and bush being worn and all the thrust is being taken on the Radius Rods instead of the Pin and Bush. If you cross rough ground you may find that the Left side of the axle beam will hit the bottom hose connection on the Radiator and could knock it off, depending on how bad the wear is. The Radius Rods can be straighted, but no use straightening them without replacing the Pin and Bush or it will do it again.
The Radius Rod needs changing or straightening as it changes the castor angle of the steering and will make the tractor hard to steer
If you need info on how to do the pivot pin & bush, email me at:-
fergusontractors(at)tiscali.co.uk
tell me again what you need in that mail....John

 

[Anonymous-0]

Hi, please, do not heat the radius rods when you try to straighten them, they are hardened. I see some people say they use a use a hammer,,, well, I am not that strong, so I used a hydraulic press, and it takes some tons to straighten them. Do a little and then move it back and forth in the press so you do not get a sharp bend. Use your sight to see where the bend is and then apply some pressure. And then when you loosen it, it goes back to where it was, and you add a little more pressure, and finaly it gives in and gets a litte better.... but remember as I said, move the rod back and forth to avoid getting a sharp bend. AND NO HEAT...


Bill

 

[hamx15]

Hi.....If you have access to the materials......
I would consider making the bushing you mentioned,from bronze.....not brass....Brass aint gonna last,with this kinda weight,relating to PSI relevance.Brass may be better than nothing,but use Bronze,if you can get it.As an after thought,if you have to go with brass....you better make two.... You'll already have a spare in hand.....