Ring Gear

[moultrieman]

I have a 9n with front dist. I am trying to replace my ring gear! I heated it in the oven to 450 degrees and froze my flywheel and still cannot get it on... Is there another trick?

 

[AbvAvgJoe]

I've heard that the new replacements are very tight to get on. I haven't tried to do a new N ring gear myself but I've heard they have to heated a lot. You make need to heat it up until it just starts to turn dull red. It should expand enough then to drop on. I hope this helps and I'm sure the other guys will chime in too.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Moultrieman.......Joe is correct.......gotta REALLY heat that starter ringear......DULL RED. yer common household oven @ 450* ain't hott-nuff Yer common plumbers propane torch is TOO small to heat it all-round. Me? I'd taker into an automobile machine shop and PAY them $25 (cheap) to do it. .......Dell

 

[R Geiger]

I installed one this past winter and I heated it with a cutting torch, acelene, and it dropped right on. Did not get to the dull red stage tho. If i did not have good torch I would takes Dell's suggestion and take it to a machine shop.

 

[JMOR]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XW1-5mPSsY

 

[moultrieman]

Thanks guys will do!

 

[Art B+10]

I had to remove the yoke to adjust the draft control spring, and it wouldn't budge (Zane warned me -- and he was right again)! Driving around the Kansas countryside, I noticed a sign out front of a house - "Welding" with a phone number. I stopped by with my lift cover, and the guy heated up the yoke with his torch and we pulled it off in less than 10 minutes. He charged me $10 for beer money, but I also "invested" about 90 minutes in talk -- retired guy happy to have the company, and he also owns an 8N. We had plenty to talk about!

Don't discount finding someone in the neigborhood.

Cheers
Art

 

[ZANE]

REPLACE THE STARTER RING GEAR

Break the tractor at the clutch housing.

Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.

Grind or cut with a hack saw torch a place as far through the ring gear as you can get without cutting the flywheel.

With a large cold chisel finish breaking the ring gear at this point so that it can be removed.

Lay the new ring gear on a couple of bricks etc and heat it with an acetylene torch until it is a gun metal blue in color all around the ring gear.

Grasp the ring gear with a pair of vice grip etc pliers and drop it onto the flywheel with the beveled side of the teeth facing up. Lightly tap it as it cools to assure it is down all the way.

It should fall all the way on the flywheel when it is hot enough un aided. Do not hammer it on or use any force to get it down. If it won’t fall on of it’s own accord it is not hot enough.

When it is cooled it will be tight on the flywheel.
Zane

 

[Hobo,NC]

If you are going to heat it dull red order 2 of'em,,, one to fudge up heating dull red and one to heat up like Zane say's...

 

[KL-VA]

Check your flywheel. Some of them are slightly thicker at the edge before you get to the seating area where the ring gear goes. You can have the raised area machined off, or you need to get the ring gear as much as 750 degrees F. hotter than the flywheel so it will grow enough to slip over the larger diameter. If you freeze the flywheel, you don't need to get the ring gear as hot. The lucky guys get the parts that will go together with only about 350 degrees F. temperature like the FO-4 manual says. The last one I did took all the heat my woodstove could put into the ring gear. Maybe just a hint of brownish red color with minimal overhead lighting when I pulled it out and dropped it on the flywheel. The book says to quench with water to shrink the ring gear, some people say to let it cool slow. Either way, it will shrink to an interferance fit with the flywheel. I quenched mine, so it wouldn't set the wood floor in my shop on fire.