Rivet Tool Help

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I need help in finding a riveting tool for sickel repairs.
My granddad had a tool that he would set the rivets with before cutting to lenth and then it would also round the head of the rivet nice also.
What is the best tool for doing this? I just can't keep the rivets tight. The ones I replace loosen up after a short time of use.
Thanks Jeff
 
Here's one type. Most implement dealer or farm parts stores will have some version or other in stock.


<img src = "http://www.smithtoolinfo.com/upload/stimages/R3030right.jpg">
ONE source
 
it want cut them to length, so you need to buy the right length. never saw a tool that would cut them to length. one side punches out the old and the other puts them in. i usually use a cold chisel to knock the head off flush to start with or a grinder if your at the shop. if your replacing them all, find something that the blades will fit down in and yet be narrow enough to catch and hold the backing bar. use a 2 lb shop hammer and drive down on the blade cutting the rivets off. the slot you put it in has to be deep enogh to allow the blade to drop off.
 
I have to agree with the nuts and bolts set up. I have switched more then one over to them and will never use rivets again. Now if you still think you need rivets use the ones that are the right length and do not try to cut them to fit. Also you need a good anvil of some sort to use a backing when hammering the rivets. I know I have never had any problems with my rivets getting loose. As for a tool most good farm and home places have them as do tractor deals or this site or nnalert. But that tool is not cheap at around $100 give or take a little bit
 
I'm with the others- Go with the bolts. You'll never look back. Our older New Idea 290 mow/ditioner has rivets but as we replace sections we're using the same bolts we use in our newer Hesston 1014+2 Hydro-Swing. Bolts are faster & easier to do repairs.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
I've used one of these several times with decent success on the combine. Also bought an never used an old JD riveting tool at a auction. Went to a SCH cutter bar on the combine which uses bolts, so probably will retire the Smith Tool. A lot of hassle cutting off long rivets so eventually decided to buy the correct length for the job. The bolts are easier but never really felt the rivets were that difficult and time consuming. I much rather do riveting than grease, but can't find anyone that I can bribe to operate a grease gun.
 
i was going to replace some rivets (before the bolts were invented) on an ihc 990 and the lift had leaked down. i told the boy with me that i was going to raise it back up and he said let me get my feet out from under here. we sat down on the ground and stuck our feet up under the header to make life easier on us all the time. he got out, i raised the lift and the weld joint holding the cylinder broke off. it could have trapped both of us under it. we never got under it again without having an 8 x 8 block under both ends of the slides.
 
You can get the bolts in three different lengths. Should be one that is right for his holdowns. His holdowns are probably shot anyway if he has an old knife and sections with rivets. Those went out with the horse.

Gordo
 
Old, Ive carried a small hydraulic jack on my swather for years for putting pressure under a sickle. It works slick but bolts are best. But they do not work on every thing. BTDT
 
That may be true, but we haven't had those problems just putting bolts in, and we don't use high arch hold down clips either. Just the normal ones sold at Fleet Farm and TSC.

Our Hesston does have 2 high arch clips on it, one on either end, but they're to clear the knife heads on it, not the bolts.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
A sledge hammer and a block of wood and a ball peen hammer also work well. Raise the head of the machine lay the block of wood and big hammer under where it need to be then lower it and whack away on the problem one
 
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