Road building

[Awlknottedup]

I recently had my road torn up then fixed and new gravel brought in. In the process they left it a little rough in a couple of places and I plan to bring in some more gravel to fix a low spot.

I pulled out the little Farmall DX29 and started playing in the rock with the front end loader but soon realized that what little I did know I have long since forgotten. I grew up around construction equipment and worked a D4 on finish work while in high school

What I need are comments on how to smooth a gravel road. I have the front end loader, scoop, and box blade. I would like some suggestions on how to smooth out the gravel road and if I need other tools and how to make them.

 

[old]

Get your self a log, or I beam etc and hook a chain on both ends and drag it across the road. Shoot even an old bed spring will do the job. Now if it was me I would just fire up my Allis W Speed patrol and do it but not many own equipment like I have. Years ago when I first moved where I am I used a big heavy I-beam on my road and it did a pretty good job but my W Speed Patrol does a better job. I still have to old I-beam out back

 

[BCnT]

in addition to the tools you already mentioned...a 3 point angle blade sure makes the finish work alot easier...or a maintainer if you got access to one.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Biggest thing is do not level the road - crown it leaving the center high so water runs off the road. I see too many roads left level, then water cannot get off, then you end up with either pot holes, or ruts from water running off in the road. Water runs down hill, so make your road the high point so no water can get on it, and what does get on can run off before it gets any momemtum. You could tilt you box blade for this. Then once you have it the way you like it you will just have to touch it up once in a while

 

[spritzer1]

Try something like this-------

Use 3-pt. w/drawbar & receiver hitch with ball.

Uses hydraulics for tilt control.

 

[spritzer1]

Sorry--No picture---

 

[Flurette Farm]

I can tell you its very hard to do with the equipment you've got because of the short wheel base. If you have the manual for your box blade review it and see what the best settings are for what you are trying to achieve. Don't worry about putting a crown on the road until you have it leveled out.
With your small short wheel based tractor its very hard to keep your blade from dugging a hole when your tractor tire drops off in one. You'll be better off dragging the loader bucket in reverse. Work in small areas and have patience. Don't use so much down pressure on the bucket that you can't steer the tractor. Remember, patience. Good luck.....

 

[Joe N E Texas]

Since you have a box blade you shouldn't need any thing else It may just take some time to get used to it. Like Old said a drag works well you just drive and it does the work.If you just want an excuse to buy some more toys a landscape rake is really handy to have.

 

[Leroy]

To compansate for the ups & downs of the box blade make a caster wheel bracket that will stick out about 3+' in back of the blade and have the depth of that wheel set just so it touches the ground when the box blade is an the ground the way you want it. That way any time the front end of the tractor hits a high spot it will keep the blade from dropping down and making a bigger hole. They used to make the 3 point back blades with that as an option. I need to do that on by blade as well.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Just something I have experienced, or at least in the type soil and conditions here, is that it is better to work the material when it is pretty damp. Not necessarily 'mud', but not dry either. It will take some time to get it the way you want it, but just keep working it, and you may have to let it settle, rain on it, then work it again until you get it how you like. Biggest challenge is on hills.

 

[rwskinner]

Something we use to maintain a one mile gravel road is a section of chain link fence wire.

We tie a section about 10 or 12' long behind the 3 pt. blade. The blade is turned backwards and angled towards the center of the road.

I sure does a good job smoothing out the road and filling in the low spots.

 

[johndeerefan]

I fixed my new 1000' driveway with a tractor about the same size as yours. All I used was the front end loader bucket and a rear blade. I packed rock to the low spots, dumped it out, and semi smoothed it up using the bucket going backwards. After you get it fairly level, turn the blade around backwards, and just keep driving back and forth over it. It will eventually smooth out level. You might have some small ups and downs since the blade floats, but you can go back and drag the front bucket over the areas and level them out. Just take your time and you will be fine. This is all based on using #57 (1 to 1-1/2" gravel) or dense grade. For a 3" rock base, I have no idea.

I can drive as fast as I want to on my road and it is just as smooth as the asphalt highway. Like it was mentioned before, drainage is key to the road holding up. Make sure the road is higher than everything around it. It doesn't necessarily have to be crowned, but ditching is a must.