Rockshaft/3 point issues on a 60

[WeirdDeere]

Rockshaft/3 point issues on a 60. Drifting down quickly, spongey as well.

JUST got a 3 point on my 60. It's been setup with a 45 loader for as long as I've known the tractor. I know that I can't separate the loader and rockshaft functions, I'm working on getting a Baker Valve on to solve that.

Right now, with the proper plug adjustment, I can raise and lower the rockshaft just fine, but the 3 point drifts down fairly quickly even with no weight on it, and if I stand on it it drops even faster. When I do stand on it, it seems spongey, it drops, and when I get off, it springs up slightly.

I have cycled the rockshaft up and down 10 times or so, I don't believe it's air in the system. The loader has worked for years under this setup, it stays up with no problem. (though I did notice up on the loader is down on the 3 point, and vice versa). I have an adjustable plug in the top port.

I stupidly thought that since the loader worked just fine that the rockshaft would work just as well since it's basically the same hydraulic circuit, but I'd love to know what I'm missing.

Thanks,
Brandon

 

[Tx Jim]

My guess is gasket(item 35/A1447R) between valve housing & differential housing or rockshaft piston seal has failed.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/60864/referrer/navigation/pgId/120168

 

[Dan in Ohio]

Brandon,

You mention I have an adjustable plug in the top port (selector valve). How is that valve set? For rockshaft operation it
should be set with the inside of the knurled knob set even with the valve housing (pic on page 51 of 70D OM). The selector
valve is used to get two way cylinder action out the side ports. This selector valve setting as well as the metering valve
set at approximately two turns out should get your rockshaft to work although the loader will not work. My 70D with snow
plow operates both remote cylinder and rockshaft together (no selector valve) green remote cylinder. Those selector valves
cause some confusion for me in the past.

 

[WeirdDeere]

When trying the rockshaft, I had the selector valve moved out, just like the manual said. Honestly I can never remember which direction to go until I try it hahah but I know to unscrew until the inside knurl is even with the outer plug. I also moved it with the valve screwed in, moving both the loader and rockshaft, I noticed I had the loader go up/rockshaft down with my arrangement of hoses haha

I never messed with the metering valve, I might have to try it at least.

Brandon

 

[WeirdDeere]

That makes me hopeful, I plan on taking the valve housing off anyway to put on a Baker valve. And I think pulling the piston at that point isn't too bad

Brandon

 

[Tx Jim]

Replacing A1447R is relatively easy. IIRC R&R of rockshaft piston seal requires R&R of rockshaft housing from differential housing.https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/60864/referrer/navigation/pgId/119627[url]

 

[WeirdDeere]

OK good to know. The manual seems to show you can pull it out without taking the rockshaft housing off. Maybe it's just too much of a pain.

Brandon

 

[Dan in Ohio]

How has your loader been operating? If all is fine and it does not drift down then I would say the piston and it's related
seals are just fine, replace them if you like. Bad seals on that piston will effect loader operation in specific ways.

 

[WeirdDeere]

Thanks Dan,

The loader has been working fine, no drifting, holding up just fine (though I noticed that up on the loader is down on the 3 point, so I wonder if I flip the hoses...)

That's why I wasn't worried about throwing a 3 point on, I know the circuit is all interconnected and since the loader was good.

Now I'm back to being confused LOL

Brandon

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 11:05:20 07/25/21) OK good to know. The manual seems to show you can pull it out without taking the rockshaft housing off. Maybe it's just too much of a pain.

Brandon

You're probably correct. I think I was thinking of R&R of failed gasket where RS cyl housing bolts to rockshaft housing.

 

[Dan in Ohio]

Try setting the metering valve two turns out, that should allow the rockshaft to operate. I do not know what the loader will do with the metering valve set that way. To be safe I'd block it up. I think one of my 70D's is set that way with the snow plow and both rockshaft and cylinder operate together(one after the other). Now throw in a selector valve and I get confused too. Be safe whatever you decide.

 

[WeirdDeere]

I will definitely try the metering valve now. I'm only trying the rockshaft right now just making sure that it functions, I'm not really planning on using it with the loader attached at the same time, I'm just testing before I throw on a Baker valve (actually TWO) and make even MORE variables to figure out why won't this work?!?!?

I've used my 70D with the selector valve and a remote cylinder, and I noted it did the same thing you said, I'd raise the implement and my three point would do the same and vice versa, though I can't remember the order they moved in. I believe the 3 point moved first because it's easiest (no load) then the implement.

Brandon

 

[WeirdDeere]

I'm hoping that gasket is good (and I assumed EVERYTHING was good) because the loader functions just fine

I'm trying not to pull the rockshaft off, because not only is it a pain, I'd be working on a lot more. Because if I go that far I'm going to go into the non functioning PTO.

Brandon

 

[WeirdDeere]

DaninOhio and anyone else who cares,

Checked the metering valve, and it was already two turns out, so, setup for rockshaft operation already. I did not restart the tractor to recheck the symptoms, but since I didn't really move the adjustment, it shouldn't have affected operation. I must have some other problem

Brandon

 

[PJH]

The leaking gasket that Jim mentions will allow hydraulic fluid to leak into the final drive. If you raise the rockshaft and let it settle many times, you will see the hydraulic fluid level go down and the transmission fluid level go up as it leaks past the loose or blown gasket. That would give you a possible clue as to what you're up against in the form of repairs.

I'm betting your problem will be a worn out piston seal. It's not a real bad job to replace the seal, [or cup, I think they call it]. If you replace the piston seal, take pictures and notes as you take it apart, particularly in the area of the rockshaft/piston crank arm area. It is easy [at least for me] to clock the crank arm/rockshaft wrong and then have to remove the valve housing again to correct the mistake. A real mechanic probably wouldn't make that mistake, but then I'm not a real mechanic. The good part is - I was faster the second time, ha. If you get it clocked wrong, the three point lift arms won't be in the proper position.