Rod bolt washers

[Anonymous-0]

So I am doing pistons, rings, sleeves on my 1950 TO-20. This engine has been apart before me as there are welds inside the block. Question is this, some of the piston rod bolts have a lock washer on them and some do not.These are the style washers that have two small flaps that you bend up after the bolt is tightned. Seems strange to me some have them some don't and I did not think you would even use a lock washer on a bolt that has been tightned to spections.

 

[Richard L]

Those are called, connecting rod bolt washer tabs, and the part number was 825 140 M1. They helped to keep the bolts from loosening and causing a big problem. They are not available any longer. In the archives it has been mentioned to use a drop of "locktite red" which will help to hold the bolt and it can be broken loose if you ever need to disassemble it. I would think it would lock up before you could get them properly torqued. I know when my Z 129 was restored he used locktite and it is still running in good shape.

 

[Tony in Mass.]

I have been thinking about this since you posted it, though I might have some around- but if anything, they are extras I got with my other block, but they were for the mains, not rods. you could try fabricating some out of sheet metal, but then, maybe not such a good idea? you could throw the engine off balance? So, like Richard said, just use a drop of locktite, unless you want to wait and locate some. And don't leave one or two off, if you don't have all 4, leave the others off and put the blue drop on all 8 bolts. Ask Ron8N? in the posts on this forum.

 

[John UK]

The parts you refer too are Lock-tabs and even though the original type may no longer be available, there are other types available from other engines that will fit and should be used if at all possible as they are a more positive way to lock the nuts....John

 

[Anonymous-0]

Don't use any soft metal under capscrew or nut. It will deform and loosen. Any washers or spacers should be very hard, heat-treated steel.
Critical screws should be torqued to just below yield, which you can only determine by testing a bunch of them. Even then, you might not always have the same wrench or the same grease in the threads. The repair manuals usually list a value well below yield, and the designers may use more screws to compensate.

The automatic tightening machines actually sense when yielding begins. These screws are used once and not reused.

Gaskets are a whole different story. Not easy to determine the ideal torque without some testing program.

 

[2tractors]

I would not expect an engine that turns at less than 2500 rpm to need any retainers or wire locking,BUT I'm new to tractor rebuilding so whatever makes you sleep better at night , I'd go with that, BUT taking shortcuts will come back to haunt you.Could be these engines have less RPM but with all the torque it requires the locks.Would like to hear more input on this subject as it has been addressed but not clarified.