Row crop leveling box

[MarkB_MI]

Shouldn't it be possible to make the leveling box link shorter than the fixed link on the other side? My fixed link is about 29 inches from pin to pin, but I can only shorten my leveling box link to about 30. Once I screw it in that far the screw just spins without getting any shorter. Also, there's a groove in the screw shaft that I've always assumed marks the adjustment midpoint, but I can only get the lower link to within about 3/4 inch of that mark. So I assume the threads are trashed and I need a new leveling box assembly.

My tractor is a row crop four cylinder 4000, basically a 961. What have y'all used for replacement leveling boxes on your row crops? I'm doubtful I can find a serviceable one from a scrapyard. YT/ASAP sells a "901 Leveling Box Assembly", P/N HLBMF62, but it lists that same part number as being applicable to the non-row crop models. Also, they say it fits the 4000 EXCEPT row crop! My assumption is this doesn't actually fit the row crop tractors. Unfortunately no specs are given for this part.

I came across this post which says a leveling box assembly from one of the three-cylinder 4000 tractors will work, but there are no specifics. Has anyone tried a three-cylinder leveling box? What did you use and how did it work?

 

[Texasmark]

Ebay sells new ones, not too expensive. Or take yours off, get a grinder and a welder and cut yours off.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Ebay sells new ones, not too expensive. Or take yours off, get a grinder and a welder and cut yours off.

Yes, I looked at eBay. P/N C5NN569AM, intended for a three-cylinder 4000, looks promising. At least some of the eBay sellers give the basic dimensions. Most of YT's listings lack that info.

I'm not sure what you want me to cut and weld.

 

[shaun wallace]

The groove denotes lift rods same length. Think3 cyl used heavier lift rods , 1 inch vs 5/8 used on prior 4 cyl.

 

[MarkB_MI]

The groove denotes lift rods same length. Think3 cyl used heavier lift rods , 1 inch vs 5/8 used on prior 4 cyl.

Thanks for the info, Shaun. I think I'll order a three cylinder leveling box off eBay. Those use a 3/4 inch pin on the lower fork versus 5/8 on mine, but I should be able to make it work. My Woods HBL-84 rear blade is ridiculously heavy, so it's probably better to go with the heavier leveling box.

 

[Texasmark]

Yes, I looked at eBay. P/N C5NN569AM, intended for a three-cylinder 4000, looks promising. At least some of the eBay sellers give the basic dimensions. Most of YT's listings lack that info.

I'm not sure what you want me to cut and weld.

I may have missed something but I thought the problem was excessive length and that comment was a suggestion on just shortening the solid steel rod part of the assembly.

 

[MarkB_MI]

I may have missed something but I thought the problem was excessive length and that comment was a suggestion on just shortening the solid steel rod part of the assembly.

Ah. I'd say the issue is insufficient adjustment range rather than excessive length. I doubt the link has stretched in the 30 years I've owned the tractors.

When I get the replacement I'll unscrew the old link and see what's going on. I'm pretty sure the threads are worn out.

 

[Texasmark]

Ah. I'd say the issue is insufficient adjustment range rather than excessive length. I doubt the link has stretched in the 30 years I've owned the tractors.

When I get the replacement I'll unscrew the old link and see what's going on. I'm pretty sure the threads are worn out.

That's a reasonable assumption. Every time I look at the box, I wonder how this little sucker holds up with so much weight to support for as long as it does.....but it does. On stretching, unless you get fractions of an inch in length due to worn components, we are in agreement that under these conditions, steel doesn't stretch....course last time I thought about it it doesn't stretch anyway....molecules separate and it splits/breaks.

 

[MarkB_MI]

That's a reasonable assumption. Every time I look at the box, I wonder how this little sucker holds up with so much weight to support for as long as it does.....but it does. On stretching, unless you get fractions of an inch in length due to worn components, we are in agreement that under these conditions, steel doesn't stretch....course last time I thought about it it doesn't stretch anyway....molecules separate and it splits/breaks.

I didn't notice the problem until I mounted my heavy rear blade this fall. I think it weighs over 700 pounds, which doesn't sound like too much until you realize it's hanging out on a fairly long lever arm and is even further out when it's offset. I just hope I can make the three cylinder leveling box work without a lot of modification. My biggest concern is the bottom fork might be wider than the original which would require me to grind it down.

 

[Texasmark]

I didn't notice the problem until I mounted my heavy rear blade this fall. I think it weighs over 700 pounds, which doesn't sound like too much until you realize it's hanging out on a fairly long lever arm and is even further out when it's offset. I just hope I can make the three cylinder leveling box work without a lot of modification. My biggest concern is the bottom fork might be wider than the original which would require me to grind it down.

Foot-pounds....10' is 7000. Same thing with some of my plows and understand why you see a lot of tractors with front end weights....which I have put on some of mine like my 6' drum mower in the "transport" mode where its straight out the back of the tractor.

 

[Sean in PA]

It could have stretched just a bit at one specific point, and the threads now bind when it gets to that point and will not let you adjust it any further.

 

[MarkB_MI]

It could have stretched just a bit at one specific point, and the threads now bind when it gets to that point and will not let you adjust it any further.

Thanks, but it isn't binding. It just spins. I suspect it would tighten further if I didn't have the weight of the blade on it.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Foot-pounds....10' is 7000. Same thing with some of my plows and understand why you see a lot of tractors with front end weights....which I have put on some of mine like my 6' drum mower in the "transport" mode where its straight out the back of the tractor.

The leveling box link attaches to the lift arm about a third of the way from the pivot end. So if half the weight of the blade is hanging on the right side lift arm, there's about a thousand pounds of force pulling the leveling box screw apart. (350 x 3 = 1050)

I've never had to add weight to the front of my tractor; I don't think the three point lift is strong enough to lift the front. Maybe if I ever overhaul the lift I might need additional weight. I do have ballasted front tires, but the tricycle front end is fairly light compared to a wide front end.

 

[Vito]

Call Long Lane tractor in PA. He probably has a good used one.

Vito

 

[MarkB_MI]

The three-cylinder leveling box I ordered, P/N C5NN569AM, came in yesterday. It looks promising, and I think I can make it work. The upper knuckle appears to be the same as mine, so no issue there. The bottom fork uses a 3/4 inch diameter pin instead of 5/8, which I knew when I ordered it. I got a 3/4" o.d. x 5/8" i.d. bronze bushing at the hardware store so it fits better. The bigger issue is the bottom fork is quite a bit wider, so the original pin won't work. I should be able to substitute a 5/8 x 3" bolt. Hopefully the weather will warm up a bit.

If I can't get the three-banger leveling box to work, then I guess I'll need to hunt down an original one in a scrap yard. Given that the one on my tractor isn't its original (red paint rather than blue), I think my chances of finding a serviceable one are slim. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

 

[ErnieD]

The three-cylinder leveling box I ordered, P/N C5NN569AM, came in yesterday. It looks promising, and I think I can make it work. The upper knuckle appears to be the same as mine, so no issue there. The bottom fork uses a 3/4 inch diameter pin instead of 5/8, which I knew when I ordered it. I got a 3/4" o.d. x 5/8" i.d. bronze bushing at the hardware store so it fits better. The bigger issue is the bottom fork is quite a bit wider, so the original pin won't work. I should be able to substitute a 5/8 x 3" bolt. Hopefully the weather will warm up a bit.

If I can't get the three-banger leveling box to work, then I guess I'll need to hunt down an original one in a scrap yard. Given that the one on my tractor isn't its original (red paint rather than blue), I think my chances of finding a serviceable one are slim. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Heat red hot (think rose bud torch) and squeeze the top shut (spacer at bolt hole). If it is wrong, can you make it more wrong?

 

[MarkB_MI]

Heat red hot (think rose bud torch) and squeeze the top shut (spacer at bolt hole). If it is wrong, can you make it more wrong?

Thanks for the suggestion, but I can think of at least a couple of reasons why I don't want to do that. First, I don't think the fork opening is enough wider than the lift arm that it can be squeezed enough so the original pin will work. Also, squeezing the fork is going to misalign the holes. I think I can make a longer bolt work.

Unfortunately the bottom pin is not a regular bolt but rather has a half-inch threaded portion while the shank is 5/8. I assume that's so it doesn't squeeze the fork. I may have to double-nut the bolt, which will require it to be even longer.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for the suggestion, but I can think of at least a couple of reasons why I don't want to do that. First, I don't think the fork opening is enough wider than the lift arm that it can be squeezed enough so the original pin will work. Also, squeezing the fork is going to misalign the holes. I think I can make a longer bolt work.

Unfortunately the bottom pin is not a regular bolt but rather has a half-inch threaded portion while the shank is 5/8. I assume that's so it doesn't squeeze the fork. I may have to double-nut the bolt, which will require it to be even longer.

McMaster Carr has socket head shouldered bolts with a 5/8" diameter shoulder and 1/2" threads.

If you use a 5/8 bolt (shank should be long enough for the nut to bottom against, no threads in the holes) and don't want the extra length of double nutting sticking out, run one nut on to where you want it and drill through the nut and bolt for a cotter pin or roll pin, then trim the excess thread off.

 

[MarkB_MI]

McMaster Carr has socket head shouldered bolts with a 5/8" diameter shoulder and 1/2" threads.

If you use a 5/8 bolt (shank should be long enough for the nut to bottom against, no threads in the holes) and don't want the extra length of double nutting sticking out, run one nut on to where you want it and drill through the nut and bolt for a cotter pin or roll pin, then trim the excess thread off.

I hadn't thought to check McMaster-Carr. Thanks. Looks like the size I'd need is 8 bucks plus shipping.

I bought a 5/8" grade 8 bolt at Ace and a couple of thin jamb nuts. I think this will work. I probably could have got by with a grade 5 bolt but grade 8 was only a buck more.