rubber grease boot replacement

[Anonymous-0]

To replace the rubber grease boots on a TO 30 does the adjustable steering drag link seperate by striking it with a BFH to remove it from the steering sectors front and rear? That's what it looked like in the repair manual I have. I am assuming the cups with the grease fitting "snaps" over a ball joint on the sector arms?? To reinstall it I suppose one way would be to line it back up and put a socket over the cup and strike it with a hammer back over the ball joint reseating it . Can this procedure be done without disturbing the existing link adjustment?

 

[Richard L]

when you buy the drag links they come assembled you do not have to do the "some assembly required" deal like they are toys. You just have to screw them into the ends of the steering link assembly. I suppose you could take one side off at a time and replace the drag links and it would be very close but why not line up the front end according to the way your books says to do it? It is really simple to do that, just follow what the book says.

 

[Richard L]

If you are only changing the rubber part on each drag link just take off the nut then separate from where it is held onto, change the rubbers and reinstall.

 

[John UK]

Do not attempt to take the joints apart. To replace the rubber boots, remove the nut that holds the joint onto the steering arm and strike the arm with a medium size hammer to shock the joint out of the taper in the arm. Don't worry about breaking anything, because it wont, just hit it and then you can fit the new boots. They are a pest to fit, if they are the original type,they are rather like fitting a tyre on a bicycle only much smaller and can be difficult. Just be careful you don't push a hole through the new boots. The later type fit quite easily and just slot over the taper. To refit, just fit it into the lever and tighten the nut, that is all and it does not alter the steering in any way unless you unscrew the joints on the rods..John

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks you all, glad I asked. I started removing it as you stated John, but stopped because I really wasn't 100% sure I was correct and didn't want to screw something up. Always good to check with the pros before you go beating on something with a big ole hammer.

 

[Jeff-oh]

Just to clairify for future readers. Do not strike the threads of the drag link. You want to strike at a 90 deg angle to the drag link threaded stud. i.e. horz. for the wheel end and vert. for the steering wheel end.

i.e. strike on the end of the King pin's short steering arm in the direction along it's length.

For the steering wheel side strik up-wards in a line along the steering column arm.

It also helps to have a lever (12" stick or so) applying a little up ward force on the drag link to pop it out when it let's go.

the goal is to slightly compress the taper in one direction and open it up on the sides, thus the link come out.

Jeff

 

[Mike(NC)]

The easiest way to get the links loose is to back the nuts off till they are just past flush of the thresds. Then slip a metal spacer and shims between the nut and the housing behind the nut till it is snug. Then tap the arm firmly towards the nut and spacers and the link will come loose. Replace the boot and put the nut back on and tighten.