Screw type fuel shut off

[Tom Bond]

Anyone have an old OEM screw type fuel shut off they would like to part with? I bought a 960 with a lever type that leaks like they normally do. Want to replace it with an original screw in type but not buy one of the junk ones off Amazon or Ebay. I assume the mounting screws and flange are the same size on both types. I've had great success using the brown Viton O'rings and never had one leak after installing those. I'd send you a check for your asking price and shippng. Thanks! Heck, if you hve 2, send 'em both. I'll reseal them both and send one back to you and we'll call it even if that works for you.

 

[Texasmark]

Check ebay if YT doesn't have one. They carry a lot of Ford parts as do Messicks Farm Parts and All States Ag. Parts.

 

[Keith Williams]

Anyone have an old OEM screw type fuel shut off they would like to part with? I bought a 960 with a lever type that leaks like they normally do. Want to replace it with an original screw in type but not buy one of the junk ones off Amazon or Ebay. I assume the mounting screws and flange are the same size on both types. I've had great success using the brown Viton O'rings and never had one leak after installing those. I'd send you a check for your asking price and shippng. Thanks! Heck, if you hve 2, send 'em both. I'll reseal them both and send one back to you and we'll call it even if that works for you.

I thought they changed the line size (Bigger line) when they went from the screw in type to the lever type.
Maybe the fitting is the same size though.
I have the lever type on my 1964 4000.
Keith

 

[MarkB_MI]

I thought they changed the line size (Bigger line) when they went from the screw in type to the lever type.
Maybe the fitting is the same size though.
I have the lever type on my 1964 4000.
Keith

I thought they changed the line size (Bigger line) when they went from the screw in type to the lever type.

Correct. But it's no big deal to adapt the line. I think the lever shutoff uses a 5/16 line versus 1/4 for the screw shutoff.

 

[DoubleO7]

Check ebay if YT doesn't have one. They carry a lot of Ford parts as do Messicks Farm Parts and All States Ag. Parts.

All States Ag Parts is the mother company of YT and this forum.
They both sell the screw type shutoff for $17
And.........................you can add more needed items to your order and only pay a total of $15 for shipping.
Does not include oversized parts.

 

[Btzj02]

Anyone have an old OEM screw type fuel shut off they would like to part with? I bought a 960 with a lever type that leaks like they normally do. Want to replace it with an original screw in type but not buy one of the junk ones off Amazon or Ebay. I assume the mounting screws and flange are the same size on both types. I've had great success using the brown Viton O'rings and never had one leak after installing those. I'd send you a check for your asking price and shippng. Thanks! Heck, if you hve 2, send 'em both. I'll reseal them both and send one back to you and we'll call it even if that works for you.

Recently I replaced the screw type valve, 1/4 inch fitting. I was having trouble with leaking through the valve stem, of the on/off screw, there is no packing gland like a "normal" valve. I know this is a simple thing but I finally just cut open the old valve to understand how the seal works. I found that the seal used is such that the valve must be firmly closed with a screw driver or firmly opened to back seat the seal or the valve stem will leak. Can't say if this is the original design but my beautiful painted rocker cover gained a little pantina from leaking gas before I figured it out.

 

[shaun wallace]

After getting pin out and unscrewing all the way out there is supposed to be a oring on brass part.

 

[Texasmark]

All States Ag Parts is the mother company of YT and this forum.
They both sell the screw type shutoff for $17
And.........................you can add more needed items to your order and only pay a total of $15 for shipping.
Does not include oversized parts.

REALLY!!!!!!!! That is an interesting piece of information. I was wondering who was paying the salaries and operating expenses of this sited besides YT sales. Thanks

 

[Texasmark]

I thought they changed the line size (Bigger line) when they went from the screw in type to the lever type.
Maybe the fitting is the same size though.
I have the lever type on my 1964 4000.
Keith

Doesn't matter....NPT brass adapters can take you up or down.

 

[Texasmark]

After getting pin out and unscrewing all the way out there is supposed to be a oring on brass part.

Well there has to be a sealing mechanism....either a friction fit metal to metal seal, or a rubber to metal seal. If there isn't an obvious tapered male to female interface, and a ring with no threads or other sealing hints, the ring is made to accept a rubber (Neoprene) Oring.

 

[Hemmjo]

I have repaired 3 of the screw type fuel shutoff valves on my 860. The original started leaking about 15 years ago. I bought a new one from Steiner. It lasted about 5 years before it started leaking. Setiner sent me a new one to replace the one I got from them. It started leaking a year later.

I decided take a look inside. On the original, the valve/screw is held in with a steel drive pin. I was able to file "flats" on the head, and twist the pin out using vise grips. Then I tapped that hole, and used a brass screw to hold the valve/screw in.

The aftermarket replacements, that I got from Steiner, the pin that holds the screw/valve in is soft aluminum. You can "shear" the aluminum pin by forcing the screw/valve out. Then file the pin head flat and use a punch to push what remains of the pin through the hole. Then you can tap the hole and use a brass screw to hold the valve/screw in.

I think this is what happens, Every time mine have leaked it has been shortly after I ran out of fuel with a hot engine. I think heat from the engine boils away any remaining fuel, leaving the o'ring dry, hot and squished in the valve. The heat then hardens the o'ring, then is soon wears and begins to leak.

The secret to making them not leak is the type of material the o'rings are made of. There are many types. Most you cannot tell by looking what they are made of. The one I have found that has not yet leaked is Hydrogenated Nitrile. Sometimes called HNBR, or HSN

(from the link above)HNBR is made via selective hydrogenation of the NBR butadiene groups which improves the temperature and ozone resistance considerably. HNBR is widely known for its physical strength and retention of properties after long-term exposure to heat, oil, and chemicals. HNBR has better heat resistance; oxidation resistance; tensile strength and abrasion resistance than standard nitrile (NBR). Also an excellent choice for automotive refrigerant service.

I have notes someplace on the o'ring sizes required for the valve, but I cannot find it right now right now. I did get mine from The O'Ring Store. There is a minimum order for each size which bumps up the cost a bit. Since I ordered mine I did find an assortment of HNBR o'rings at HF, but, I cannot I have not used any yet so I cannot comment on the quality.

I do burn E10/15 in my tractor, that my very well contribute to the leaks, but, knock on wood, it has not leaked for at least 5 years. I also keep keep enough fuel in the tank to finish any job I start.