Sediment bowl

[Ken/Wa]

What is the secret to keep the sediment bowl from leaking. I
bought a new gasket and put it on, leaks. I put the gasket up into
the shut off assembly, then put the bowl on and tightened.I have
had problems years ago, but ave had no problems for at least 10
years.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

The secret is to slow down and take a breath.
Loosen the bail and remove it, the bowl and gasket.
Take a small piece of Scotchbrite and clean the mating surface on the valve body.
Now take a bright light and carefully examine the mating surface for pits or a crack. Pits can be lessened with 180 grit paper, a crack may take some imagination.
Reassemble and when you turn the fuel on for the first time have your bright light aimed at the valve body. If it leaks, exactly where is the leak??
Go from there. Good luck.

 

[Ken/Wa]

Thanks, about ready to put a in line fuel filter.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Turn the knob off fully, remove the bowl & carefully check the groove in the top of the assembly for dirt/crud/old gasket material. Most leaks on a new gasket are caused by:

1. An incorrectly seated gasket.

2. An incorrectly seated screen.

3. A screen just slightly too big . (get out the scissors)

4. Using gasket sealer

5. Incorrect assembly of the screen/gasket

Don't forget to check the bowl rim for chips; if it's chipped, you will never get it to stop leaking. Clean or replace the screen. You can get both the cork gasket & the screen from TSC; p/n 0237144. A cork gasket will work if you soak it first in gas, but I like rubber. Check out tip # 10 at the link below for the correct NAPA part number. However, the newer ones aren't as thick as the old ones and the price is now $4 each. I've got the new ones to work, but it takes a few tries. And, at $4 for a thinner gasket, I'm not planning on using the NAPA gaskets anymore.

Look at the bowl; see the groove in the lip? That's for the screen. Put it in there & make sure it does not extend over the lip. If it does, trim it, but not too much or it will fall in the bowl. See the square hole in the screen? That because it needs it fit around the square fuel port in the top of the bowl when you assemble it. The gasket goes on next, on the lip of the bowl. Once you get it assembled on the tractor, hand tighten the thumb screw. (if it make you feel better, turn it about 1/8 turn w/ channel lock; no more, or you will distort the bail) Turn the gas on & look at the bowl.

If it starts to fill the bowl, turn the gas off & start over; it has a leak. You will know it's sealed when gas does not flow into the bowl w/ the engine off. It won't fill with the bowl securely on because the float has closed the needle valve in the carb and there is nowhere for the air in the bowl to escape. (assuming the carb bowl is full) When the engine is started the needle valve will open and the trapped air will escape through the carb vent. If you loosen the bowl, it will fill.....and leak.
75 Tips

 

[Hobo,NC]

Let me make this a little more simple...

3. A screen just slightly too big . (get out the scissors)

 

[Ken/Wa]

Had this tractor 20 years, never knew this stuff. Good stuff. Thanks.

 

[Ken/Wa]

I have a new cork gasket, is the outside diameter supposed to be
bigger than outside diameter of the bowl? I have a new bowl and
bail coming from this site.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 07:27:01 10/12/22) Turn the knob off fully, remove the bowl & carefully check the groove in the top of the assembly for dirt/crud/old gasket material. Most leaks on a new gasket are caused by:

1. An incorrectly seated gasket.

2. An incorrectly seated screen.

3. A screen just slightly too big . (get out the scissors)

4. Using gasket sealer

5. Incorrect assembly of the screen/gasket

Don't forget to check the bowl rim for chips; if it's chipped, you will never get it to stop leaking. Clean or replace the screen. You can get both the cork gasket & the screen from TSC; p/n 0237144. A cork gasket will work if you soak it first in gas, but I like rubber. Check out tip # 10 at the link below for the correct NAPA part number. However, the newer ones aren't as thick as the old ones and the price is now $4 each. I've got the new ones to work, but it takes a few tries. And, at $4 for a thinner gasket, I'm not planning on using the NAPA gaskets anymore.

Look at the bowl; see the groove in the lip? That's for the screen. Put it in there & make sure it does not extend over the lip. If it does, trim it, but not too much or it will fall in the bowl. See the square hole in the screen? That because it needs it fit around the square fuel port in the top of the bowl when you assemble it. The gasket goes on next, on the lip of the bowl. Once you get it assembled on the tractor, hand tighten the thumb screw. (if it make you feel better, turn it about 1/8 turn w/ channel lock; no more, or you will distort the bail) Turn the gas on & look at the bowl.

If it starts to fill the bowl, turn the gas off & start over; it has a leak. You will know it's sealed when gas does not flow into the bowl w/ the engine off. It won't fill with the bowl securely on because the float has closed the needle valve in the carb and there is nowhere for the air in the bowl to escape. (assuming the carb bowl is full) When the engine is started the needle valve will open and the trapped air will escape through the carb vent. If you loosen the bowl, it will fill.....and leak.
75 Tips

You need to drop that "A cork gasket will work if you soak it first in gas" crap that's old bad advice.

 

[grandpa Love]

Hobo, correct! I have installed 25-30
cork gaskets on sediment bowls this
year ( all from tractor supply) never
soaked one in gas, never had a leak.
25-30 gaskets are on different
tractors! Lol. The key is clean
surfaces on glass and metal.