Series one d17 starting problems

[jimmybeam01]

So had tractor running and all of a sudden she shut down. I changed the key switch. Checked everything. So before I changed the key switch I had constant 12 volts to the coil coming out of the coil and through the points. Changed key switch and with the test light at the wire post on the side of the dizzy when I hit the key the light blinks like its in sync with timing. So my question is. Wtf
Is it supposed to be solid 12 volts to the dizzy or intermittent through coil and all. But whats even weirder is when Im laying on the key through complete frustration which is wrong of me.. it will pop once. Like it catches power at the right moment. But even with 12volts solid to the dizzy it does the same thing!
So tell me. Whats the proper wiring. Whats the prob. I got juice to the points and the little capacitor, Im drawing a blank on the name of it right now. Snows coming! I need this turd!
Thanks for help and guidance l. I do got the IT shop manual that covers d17 but I dont care so much for this book. Would like a original shop manual..

 

[jimmybeam01]

Here are my books remarks and diagram. Everything looks same as what I got going on. Wondering if one of the electronic components are going to pot

 

[funky_g00]

Sounds like your coil is bad and your new switch is bad. With the key on you should have constant power to the points. A bad coil will give the symptoms you describe of dying suddenly and giving an intermittent spark when cranking.

 

[jimmybeam01]

Copy, just got a new switch rotor condenser and cap. Gonna see if I got a dif coil laying around the farm. Also it seems these need those ceramic resistors in line with the coil. But my book says nothing about that. This accurate?

 

[Jim.ME]

Key on with the points open your test light (on the distributor side primary terminal) will be luminated as there is no ground for the primary feed from the switch.

Key on with the points closed your test light (on the distributor side primary terminal) will not be luminated as the points provide a better ground for the primary feed from the switch, than your test light.

When the engine is cranked with the starter, a test light on the post on the side of the distributor will blink as the points open (no ground) and close (ground).

If that is occurring, you next check for spark at a plug. It should be white blue and jump at least 1/2" if good.

Edited to clarify the test light checks for point operation are on the distributor side of the coil. The ignition switch side terminal should have steady power at all times.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 12/02/2021 at 04:19 am.

 

[jimmybeam01]

Ok so everything is working properly. Blinking when I crank.
How come it fires once in a great while? Used to run strong and
just rebuilt the head

 

[old]

Is the firing order correct?? Did you reset the valve tappet gap when you put the head back on?? Either one or both could be your problem

 

[jimmybeam01]

Everything is set, ran it for a long while after the head rebuild. So firing order isnt off. Like I was sayin before I was doing work with it and it just shut right off

 

[old]

Do you have a good blue/white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more at the center wire of the cap and at all 4 plug wires??
If you pull the carb drain plug do you get a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 3 minutes and 2 is even better

 

[funky_g00]

You can either use a coil that requires an external resistor or you can buy one with an internal resistor. Using a regular automotive coil without a resistor will overheat and lose spark in a very short time. (Run 10 minutes no run/cool down for an hour, run 10min no run/cool down, repeat)

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 21:08:11 12/01/21) You can either use a coil that requires an external resistor or you can buy one with an internal resistor. Using a regular automotive coil without a resistor will overheat and lose spark in a very short time. (Run 10 minutes no run/cool down for an hour, run 10min no run/cool down, repeat)

A coil intended for a 6 volt system will check at about 1.5 ohms across the primary terminals. A ballast resistor is used when a 6 volt coil is installed on a 12 volt system to bring the resistance in the primary circuit up to 3 to 4 ohms. A 12 volt coil doesn't have a resistor inside it. It is wound different so that it provides the 3 to 4 ohms resistance in the primary circuit without needing a resistor. The resistance in the primary circuit is intended to keep the amperage at the points to about 4 amps so the points don't burn quickly.

 

[Jim.ME]

Did you check spark at the plug wires?

If you have a timing light you can hook it up and see if it is losing spark.

Check the gas flow out the carb drain, as old asked.

After you have been cranking it are the plugs wet?

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 12/02/2021 at 04:54 am.