Serious Opinion Needed

[NCmau]

I am caught between a rock and a hard place. My Z134 Continental engine block has a small internal crack that allows water to slowly seep into the oil.

Option 1: I have used Irontite block sealer and followed the directions precisely. No help.

Option 2: I was thinking about using oil in place of water, maybe 10-30 or 10-40, and every so often drain a little oil from the engine, filter it and put it back into the radiator. If it would work, I can live with this small inconvenience, but I do have one or two questions.
First of all, will the oil cause some undue strain to the water pump?
Second, will the oil provide satisfactory cooling?
Third, I would like to use the same oil in engine and radiator. Currently I am using 20-50, would a lower viscosity of 10-30 be better?.

Option 3. Of course would be replacing the short block. An option that I am not ready to embrace in the near future. First obstacle would be to find one, then the rebuilding and installing would end up be an expensive option .

With exception of a cracked block, the tractor (MF202) overall is a fine machine. Has anyone heard of using oil in place of water? It is used for transmission cooling and other devices, so why not for an engine?

I welcome your thoughts.

 

[oldtanker]

I'm not sure it would work. Oil is thicker than water and your pump is designed to push water through the system. Plus antifreeze is also anti boil. I know that the boiling point of oil is higher. 500 or so F. So if you were to overheat it you wouldn't know till after the damage was done.

There are a few engines out there that use oil for cooling but that is under full pressure throught an oil cooler of the ones I'm familiar with.

Rick

 

[oldtanker]

ops

 

[trac]

My first guess would be a bad o-ring in cylinder sleeve old and dry rotten but it very well could be a crack. The z134 motor is not prone to break but there is very good and expensive additives with nanno technology it's worth a second try

 

[horsepoor]

(quoted from post at 18:52:49 03/18/11) I am caught between a rock and a hard place. My Z134 Continental engine block has a small internal crack that allows water to slowly seep into the oil.

Option 1: I have used Irontite block sealer and followed the directions precisely. No help.

Option 2: I was thinking about using oil in place of water, maybe 10-30 or 10-40, and every so often drain a little oil from the engine, filter it and put it back into the radiator. If it would work, I can live with this small inconvenience, but I do have one or two questions.
First of all, will the oil cause some undue strain to the water pump?
Second, will the oil provide satisfactory cooling?
Third, I would like to use the same oil in engine and radiator. Currently I am using 20-50, would a lower viscosity of 10-30 be better?.

Option 3. Of course would be replacing the short block. An option that I am not ready to embrace in the near future. First obstacle would be to find one, then the rebuilding and installing would end up be an expensive option .

With exception of a cracked block, the tractor (MF202) overall is a fine machine. Has anyone heard of using oil in place of water? It is used for transmission cooling and other devices, so why not for an engine?

I welcome your thoughts.

Did you see this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Massey-Ferguson-Continental-Z134-Engine-Block-/220755516125

Found this too, if you get the block.

http://www.agkits.com/search.aspx?find=Z134+Continental+engine

-Horsepoor

 

[NCmau]

Trac, you could be right about the sleeve O rings, but when I replaced the head gasket, I noticed two tiny cracks between cylinder walls. So I am pretty sure that's my problem.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I do not know what Ironite block searler is, but many many years ago my dad would use some stuff he called liquid glass for such a situation. My dad is long gone so I cannot ask him about it but there was a certain method to using it as well and I don't remember the details.

 

[Anonymous-0]

the ferg Z block is most often cracked. There is no ez fix. Using oil as coolant presents a serious fire hazzard. KW block sealer works if you follow it EXACTLY

 

[trac]

If you can see the cracks thats most likely the problem .I have a few of the continental motors the only one that gave me and others a severe headache was the z129 block

 

[B Bair]

Water Glass. Sodium carbonate or something like that. I have heard the older folks talk about that and had some at one time. I think it can be bought at drug stores. That was a lot of years ago.

 

[lha]

In my experience,the block sealers don't work.That being said,I haven't used them all.There are new ones coming out all the time.When I bought my little Toyota p/u,it had a blown head gasket,covered up by some block sealer.It came loose and overheated[almost] the motor,and I limped it back home thanks to a case of bottled water in the tool box.I took it apart,took it to a machine shop,milled,valves redone,pressure tested,etc.I put it back together,and to this day,I have to flush out block filler every 6 mos or so.---my$.02,lha

 

[DollarBill]

I'm not advocating the below process over the correct block repair but just passing along something that may get you by.

I tried the Iron Tight, K&W Block Seal and a few others with no positive results. As a last ditch effort, I tried the liquid glass - Works like a champ!!

You can find it at drug stores or just Google it for a supplier. It's also called water glass or sodium silicate.

It's what they use to destroy engines during the cash for clunkers campaign several years ago - Except they put it in the crankcase.

Instructions: System must be free of antifreeze and any other block sealant - Flush profusely with clean water - It might not be a bad idea to run some radiator cleaner thru it.

Refill with plain water and put in the liquid glass - You'll need less than a half a cup.

Start the engine and get the engine up to operating temp - You want it as hot as possible without overheating. You may have to put cardboard over the radiator to get the temp up. Let it run for 20-30 minutes and shut it down. When the engine is cool to the touch, repeat the above process. Just to be sure, I would cycle it 3 times.

Check your oil for water contamination and then change it if needed. Drain the water and liquid glass and flush the system of any remnants of the liquid glass. It's like microscopic sand and may chew up your water pump if left to circulate.

If the above process doesn't work, pull the block and have it repaired.

 

[NCmau]

DollarBill, I have tried K&W, Irontite and liquid Copper, but not
liquid glass. I have seen it on the shelves and I will definitely give it
a try. I am well aware of the laxative treatment. Thanks for the
input.