Shell Rotella?

[shaun wallace]

T4 is mineral oil , T5 is semi-synthetic, T6 is full synthetic . This what I have been told.

 

[Dingo3]

What exactly do you gain my using T6 vs T5 or T4? What is the benefit of synthetic? I use T4 for my diesels but am considering T6 for my new Mahindra.

More run time between changes with synthetic.

 

[moresmoke]

What exactly do you gain my using T6 vs T5 or T4? What is the benefit of synthetic? I use T4 for my diesels but am considering T6 for my new Mahindra.

I use the T6 synthetic in my snow removal machines for better winter starting.

 

[MarkB_MI]

What exactly do you gain my using T6 vs T5 or T4? What is the benefit of synthetic? I use T4 for my diesels but am considering T6 for my new Mahindra.

What exactly do you gain my using T6 vs T5 or T4? What is the benefit of synthetic? I use T4 for my diesels but am considering T6 for my new Mahindra.

For my Duramax, I could run T4 conventional oil, since it meets the CJ spec. But I feel it's worth the extra money to use either T5 synthetic blend or T6 full synthetic oil. In the summer I typically run 15W-40 T5, which is reasonably priced. But in the winter, I run the much more expensive 5W-40 T6 for better cold weather performance.

Although I usually buy Shell Rotella, I will use other brands such as Chevron Delo or Mobil Delvac, depending on price and/or availability.

 

[MarkB_MI]

View attachment 109016View attachment 109018
T4 has been spec. JASO MA for years. I use it in my wet clutch ATVs and it seems to shift better.

T4 has been spec. JASO MA for years. I use it in my wet clutch ATVs and it seems to shift better.

I stand corrected, Dingo. It seems that T5 doesn't carry the JASO MA spec while T4 does. I never buy T4 so I don't pay much attention to it. I suspect T5 has the sort of friction modifiers that cause problems with wet clutches, and T6 does not.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

For my Duramax, I could run T4 conventional oil, since it meets the CJ spec. But I feel it's worth the extra money to use either T5 synthetic blend or T6 full synthetic oil. In the summer I typically run 15W-40 T5, which is reasonably priced. But in the winter, I run the much more expensive 5W-40 T6 for better cold weather performance.

Although I usually buy Shell Rotella, I will use other ebrands such as Chevron Delo or Mobil Delvac, depending on price and/or availability.

Mark
I will admit I have no clue about the alphabet oersils. It is all Greek to me.
Her is the alphabet on my Kubota oil.
And reason rotella won't work in my old gasser tractor, lawn mowers and my Kubota
Below is a picture of the oil my Kubota dealer sells. My reason for asking is rotella is cheaper.

For a topic posted weekly there are a lot of replies.

 

[MarkB_MI]

showcrop
It may be asked her daily, but I only read post of interest to me.
I never considered using oil for diesel engines in my Old Farmall until I noticed was cheaper.
Go figure, add something to an oil , zinc, and charge less. LOL.
I remember SNL making a joke out of Lead free gas and it was more expensive. Take lead out of gas and it costs more.

I remember SNL making a joke out of Lead free gas and it was more expensive. Take lead out of gas and it costs more.

Well, yes. Tetraethyl lead is just the cheapest way to raise octane, certainly not the only way.

FWIW, there's a lot of work being done to come up with a lead-free avgas. It's not easy to make 100 octane fuel without TEL, but it can certainly be done.

 

[docmirror]

I've gone around on this subject a few times with a few different engines. To simplify, just for me any of the vintage engines designed when there was significant ZDDP in base stock need that ZDDP for the cam lobes. Without it, the cams will both pit, and scuff down the lobes. Newer engines with a changed profile cam lobe aren't affected much by levels of ZDDP, and as it's been considered an environmental negative, many modern oils have minimal ZDDP as additive.

Break in oils usually have a 2000ppm ZDDP for cam/tappet success. I use Valvoline VR1 in older engines. It's not synthetic and tends to 'stick' to components much better than syn oils. Important to me where my engine sits idle for months at a time.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Mark
I will admit I have no clue about the alphabet oersils. It is all Greek to me.
Her is the alphabet on my Kubota oil.
And reason rotella won't work in my old gasser tractor, lawn mowers and my Kubota
Below is a picture of the oil my Kubota dealer sells. My reason for asking is rotella is cheaper.View attachment 109050
For a topic posted weekly there are a lot of replies.

Her is the alphabet on my Kubota oil.
And reason rotella won't work in my old gasser tractor, lawn mowers and my Kubota

George, it doesn't really matter what specs are on your 'bota oil. What matters are the specs called out for your TRACTOR.

CK-4, CJ-4 and CI-4 are all API diesel oil specs. ("C" is for "compression ignition"). SN and SM are gasoline oil specs ("S" is for "spark ignition"). But what does your Kubota's manual call for? Diesel engine oil or gasoline engine oil? If it says to use, for example, CK-4, Rotella meets that spec and should be fine. But if it says to use SM, then you'd better not use Rotella because Rotella doesn't meet API SM. Never mind that the oil in your Bota Bag meets BOTH specs.

 

[560Dennis]

Vice grip uses this

Shop Valvoline VR1 Full Synthetic Racing Motor Oil SAE 10W-30 | Valvoline

Until 1965, there was no high-performance racing oil. So we engineered one. Specially designed for pushrod and flat-tappet engines, Valvoline VR1 10W-30 Full Synthetic Racing Oil includes premium Moly-based friction modifiers to boost horsepower at high RPMs. Our exclusive formula features...

shop.valvolineglobal.com

 

[Mcrafty1]

What exactly do you gain my using T6 vs T5 or T4? What is the benefit of synthetic? I use T4 for my diesels but am considering T6 for my new Mahindra.

Extended oil change intervals for one, Better cold flow abilities is another, more stable viscosity through temperature ranges. I usually double my oil change interval with synthetic oil. I know many who stretch it out beyond that.

 

[wore out]

I have been told by a very seasoned tractor mechanic NOT to use it in any flat tappet engines. Especially the old fords. He has seen it wear out the cam and tappets because Rotella doesn't have good wearing properties for those types of engines. Just passing it on ,if it helps you. Don't know what the farmall engines have.

Sounds like an "old mechanics wives' tale"!

The Cummins/Dodge engines use flat tappets and I haven't heard of any massive outcry of destruction there from using Rotella oil.

Those tappets, for sure, are "loaded" a LOT more than those in an old gasoline-powered tractor!

 

[Texgasser1]

My mechanic friend tells me to run Shell Rotella T4 in everything. Seems to work well. JD 3010 JD 4010 Ford 4000 and Farmall H and M.

 

[Gary Alford]

For my Duramax, I could run T4 conventional oil, since it meets the CJ spec. But I feel it's worth the extra money to use either T5 synthetic blend or T6 full synthetic oil. In the summer I typically run 15W-40 T5, which is reasonably priced. But in the winter, I run the much more expensive 5W-40 T6 for better cold weather performance.

Although I usually buy Shell Rotella, I will use other brands such as Chevron Delo or Mobil Delvac, depending on price and/or availability.

I have great luck with 15W40 Chevron Delo the last 30 yrs, when I set the valves the motors always look like new inside ! and never use any oil summer or winter.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Well, yes. Tetraethyl lead is just the cheapest way to raise octane, certainly not the only way.

FWIW, there's a lot of work being done to come up with a lead-free avgas. It's not easy to make 100 octane fuel without TEL, but it can certainly be done.

Mark,
You expect me to remember where I put the Kubota manual?
I put it someplace safe, so safe I forgot where I put them.
I'll just buy oil and filter from the Kubota dealer.
EDITED:
I noticed all oils are like Alphabet soup.
I could be wrong. The Diesel oils I looked all begin with a C.
I wonder if the C rating has something to do with Compression ignition, diesel engines.
Gas engine oil is anyone's guess, Alphabet soup.
Next year I will buy the cheapest oil I can find for The Farmall C, Jubilee and lawn mowers.
My GM dealer changes the oil in my car for $39.99. Full Synthetic Valvoline.
That is all I have to say about that. FG

 

[scootergmc]

Vice grip uses this

Shop Valvoline VR1 Full Synthetic Racing Motor Oil SAE 10W-30 | Valvoline

Until 1965, there was no high-performance racing oil. So we engineered one. Specially designed for pushrod and flat-tappet engines, Valvoline VR1 10W-30 Full Synthetic Racing Oil includes premium Moly-based friction modifiers to boost horsepower at high RPMs. Our exclusive formula features...

shop.valvolineglobal.com

I don't know what or why vice grip is or would use that, but as a side note, I just got a smoking deal on that stuff @ ~$1/qt...

 

[kencombs]

I'd be surprised if your 'bota doesn't specify a diesel-rated (CJ/CK) oil. If it doesn't there must be a good reason. I'd stick to the manufacturer's recommendation. The 'C', on the otherhand, was built long before modern oils and pretty much anything you can buy at Wally World today is far better than what was available back then. I tried 15W-40 diesel oil in my old Ford, but found it was a bit too stiff to crank over when it got down to -20F, so I now use 10W-30 whatever. It may have 5W-30 Rotella T6 in it now, but I'm not sure.

Just saying 'Rotella' doesn't mean much, as there are several different versions of Rotella with different specs. A little-known fact is that Rotella T6 carries the JASO MA spec, which means it's perfectly fine to use in motorcycles with wet clutches. Rotella T4 and T5 are NOT JASO MA rated.

Agreed!! The old tractor will be good with most any current oil. The diesel Kubota should get any current oil that meets the specs listed in the owners manual. My personal preference is to use only full synthetics in newer engines.

 

[kencombs]

I've gone around on this subject a few times with a few different engines. To simplify, just for me any of the vintage engines designed when there was significant ZDDP in base stock need that ZDDP for the cam lobes. Without it, the cams will both pit, and scuff down the lobes. Newer engines with a changed profile cam lobe aren't affected much by levels of ZDDP, and as it's been considered an environmental negative, many modern oils have minimal ZDDP as additive.

Break in oils usually have a 2000ppm ZDDP for cam/tappet success. I use Valvoline VR1 in older engines. It's not synthetic and tends to 'stick' to components much better than syn oils. Important to me where my engine sits idle for months at a time.

According to the oil info I've read, ZDDP was not really a thing until the advent of higher reving OHV engines in the 50s. Think Olds, Cadillac, Chrysler Hemi and such. Much heavier valve springs due to the higher rpm requiring them to get the valves closed quickly and heavier valve train due to rocker arms and pushrods. Lower speed OHV engines didn't need heavy springs as the valves moved much slower. So, on my flathead Mopars I just use a good dino oil. Toyota v8, Chysler v6, Chevy Cruze, Toyota 4 and Ford 4.6 in my family household get Mobil 1.

 

[Dingo3]

According to the oil info I've read, ZDDP was not really a thing until the advent of higher reving OHV engines in the 50s. Think Olds, Cadillac, Chrysler Hemi and such. Much heavier valve springs due to the higher rpm requiring them to get the valves closed quickly and heavier valve train due to rocker arms and pushrods. Lower speed OHV engines didn't need heavy springs as the valves moved much slower. So, on my flathead Mopars I just use a good dino oil. Toyota v8, Chysler v6, Chevy Cruze, Toyota 4 and Ford 4.6 in my family household get Mobil 1.

Actually ZDDP first got its start in the late 1930s and received a patent in the early 40s. It came into its own during WW2 with high revving airplane engines.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Mark
I will admit I have no clue about the alphabet oersils. It is all Greek to me.
Her is the alphabet on my Kubota oil.
And reason rotella won't work in my old gasser tractor, lawn mowers and my Kubota
Below is a picture of the oil my Kubota dealer sells. My reason for asking is rotella is cheaper.View attachment 109050
For a topic posted weekly there are a lot of replies.

I use Delo 15w40 and would have no issue with Rotella in my L4600.