have 8n and probably wont do more than maybe level little gravel with back blade, but need expanation of small lever behind left heel. am i right in that it will try and keep plow at same level in ground by exerting down pressure if plow tries to come up out of ground?. if im not plowing which position should this lever be forward or backward. would like laymans explanation of what it does and proper name for lever. thanks
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Well....if'n I am read'n your post right....the small lever is either the pto engagement lever, or what some consider DRAFT control.
HTH John,PA
HTH John,PA
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD 21773
That lever engages/disengages the rear PTO. And since th hydraulic pump is driven by the PTO disengaging it turns the pump "off" and disables the 3pt lift operation. It should be engaged at all times you are using the 3pt lift.
The lever that controls the function you are describing is next to the 3pt control lever on teh right side of the seat. It should be down (horizontal) for draft control - e.g. plowing fields and UP (vertical) for position control - e.g. dragging gravel with a back blade. In draft control mode the hydraulic system automagically adjusts the height of the 3pt to keep the pulling load from the plow constant. In position control mode it automagically adjusts the height of the 3pt to keep the implement it at a constant ground height as the tractor moves over uneven terrain.
TOH
I'm left and your are right. No sir, I'm right and your are left. See my left foot, it's on the left side, and the other foot is on the right side.
I have an 8N Ford. The lever you are talking about engages the pto. Pushed to the rear, the pto is engaged. Forward is disengaged. You can disengage it without using the clutch, but must push in the clutch to engage it. The lever that is supposed to make the implement follow the terrain is a smaller lever on the right side, under the seat. (this is to the left of the lever that raises and lowers the implement.) This little (shorter one) is known as the Draft Control lever.
I have an 8N Ford. The lever you are talking about engages the pto. Pushed to the rear, the pto is engaged. Forward is disengaged. You can disengage it without using the clutch, but must push in the clutch to engage it. The lever that is supposed to make the implement follow the terrain is a smaller lever on the right side, under the seat. (this is to the left of the lever that raises and lowers the implement.) This little (shorter one) is known as the Draft Control lever.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Welcome back.
The last time you were here on Jan 2, you were asked a lot of questions about some advice you had given that was clearly erroneous. You never replied to our individual questions, so I just listed the questions for you in a reply to "new feller" on Jan 2. In case you don't remember, just follow the link. If you like, I'll be glad to post some more links to other questionable advice you've given out here over the past few months.
So, why don’t you just answer the questions?
more bad advice
The last time you were here on Jan 2, you were asked a lot of questions about some advice you had given that was clearly erroneous. You never replied to our individual questions, so I just listed the questions for you in a reply to "new feller" on Jan 2. In case you don't remember, just follow the link. If you like, I'll be glad to post some more links to other questionable advice you've given out here over the past few months.
So, why don’t you just answer the questions?
more bad advice
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Here you go. Just want to save you the time of looking this thread up. Nice exchange of info here.
And yet another link in that thread to your advice about how an EI works w/o transistors. And that new 8N Boomer.
more bad advice part II
And yet another link in that thread to your advice about how an EI works w/o transistors. And that new 8N Boomer.
more bad advice part II
thanks for the info, sitting in den writing this I dont know my right from left but the draft control is the lever i was referring to. As to the input from Bruce I have never given advice of any kind as I am a newbie and always looking for advice, hope his posts were sent to wrong place. pixer
I see you love to hijack our member pixer's thread here. And you accuse me of doing such. It seems you are good at that. Why don't you put that facet in you Tips and call it "My Greatest 51 Tips." For the record I knew all about those - operational levers on the "N' tractor way back in 1945 when I got a job mowing the Hickory Hill Country Club golf course fairways on a Ford 2N...at least it was gray in color. Oh, I was a young 16 years old when I started mowing on the 2N.
I've got you pegged on this forum. You think you know it all, having pushed all the other knowable members here aside with your 50 Tips.
You're just a "little Banty Rooster---small but spirited and ready to attack anything anyone might post that over shadows your 50 Tips.
You can't stand someone to make a statement that may be helpful as it removes you off your Throne in the rooster yard.
I have you pictured as this photo.
I've got you pegged on this forum. You think you know it all, having pushed all the other knowable members here aside with your 50 Tips.
You're just a "little Banty Rooster---small but spirited and ready to attack anything anyone might post that over shadows your 50 Tips.
You can't stand someone to make a statement that may be helpful as it removes you off your Throne in the rooster yard.
I have you pictured as this photo.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Yea, it was directed to 8N1949. Not you pixer.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Lets not try & divert the discussion. It's not about me. It's about you. Just answer the questions.
Can't click & follow the link? Well, I've done a cut & paste for you.
On Dec 23, 2011, you responded to a question about a 8N grill by saying “With a worn (out) axle bushing this causes the radiator-hood dog legs support bracket to move up and hit the fan” Because that simply can not happen, I asked you to explain your statement......and you never have.
On Dec 27, 2011 you responded to a question about engine knock on an N by saying “" Rod knocks are loudest at higher speeds (over 2500 RPM) " and " Valve train noises generally are loudest up to 1500 rpms" " Dirt contamination on a sludged engine is the number one cause of true lifter noises," I replied that “That's nice info; too bad it doesn't apply to a N engine. Unless you are suggesting that he unhook the governor”. TOH asked “Now what valve train parts would that be on a flat head?” I found your “reply”, verbatim, on another web page. Because you posted the reply w/o quotes or attribution, I asked you “Why didn't you just provide the link to your source rather than cutting & pasting it?”. The article you copied about engine noise had nothing to do w/ a flathead engine.
No replies to any of those questions.
On Dec 28, 2011 you responded to a question about an oil filter canister overflowing at start-up by saying “Something has to be installed wrong, and that requires a new disassembling the engine.” I said “Why do you continue to waste our time w/ inane statements like this? Your replies to most questions are either incomplete, misleading or just plain wrong. “ TOH asked:
1) By what means and at what locations in the engine would a blockage in an internal oil passage cause oil to flow out the filler tube on an N tractor? How much of a teardown is needed to determine if there is such a blockage?
2) What is the purpose of the baffle in the N tractor filler tube if it is not meant to help contain the oil mist picked up in blow by gases? If it has no purpose is it OK to remove it so I can pour fresh oil in more quickly?
All that got us, as I noted at the time, was a grammatically challenged & ill tempered rant as you attempted to divert attention from your clear & obvious lack of knowledge of automotive mechanics in general & N's in particular.
Unfortunately, you have a history on this forum of making ludicrous statements and then getting in a snit when you are asked to back up the statements. For example, in 2010, you told us your EI didn’t have transistors or a rotor. You also said “Ford New Holland is coming out with a "Original" 8N tractor, just like the old one...same engine, same fenders, hoods, you wouldn't tell the old versus the new apart." And you advised a poster w/ stripped out threads in his sediment bowl to buy an electric fuel shut-off valve for $60……which must be screwed into those stripped threads in the sediment bowl.
You were asked to explain those statements and you ignored us. Well, you didn’t really ignore us; you just never answered the questions & simply responded w/ a tirade of insults sufficient to get you banned from the board.
So, why don’t you just answer the questions? Surely it can’t be because you do not know what you’re talking about, is it? More to the point, why do you consciously choose to publicly embarrass yourself over & over by posting here at all?
Can't click & follow the link? Well, I've done a cut & paste for you.
On Dec 23, 2011, you responded to a question about a 8N grill by saying “With a worn (out) axle bushing this causes the radiator-hood dog legs support bracket to move up and hit the fan” Because that simply can not happen, I asked you to explain your statement......and you never have.
On Dec 27, 2011 you responded to a question about engine knock on an N by saying “" Rod knocks are loudest at higher speeds (over 2500 RPM) " and " Valve train noises generally are loudest up to 1500 rpms" " Dirt contamination on a sludged engine is the number one cause of true lifter noises," I replied that “That's nice info; too bad it doesn't apply to a N engine. Unless you are suggesting that he unhook the governor”. TOH asked “Now what valve train parts would that be on a flat head?” I found your “reply”, verbatim, on another web page. Because you posted the reply w/o quotes or attribution, I asked you “Why didn't you just provide the link to your source rather than cutting & pasting it?”. The article you copied about engine noise had nothing to do w/ a flathead engine.
No replies to any of those questions.
On Dec 28, 2011 you responded to a question about an oil filter canister overflowing at start-up by saying “Something has to be installed wrong, and that requires a new disassembling the engine.” I said “Why do you continue to waste our time w/ inane statements like this? Your replies to most questions are either incomplete, misleading or just plain wrong. “ TOH asked:
1) By what means and at what locations in the engine would a blockage in an internal oil passage cause oil to flow out the filler tube on an N tractor? How much of a teardown is needed to determine if there is such a blockage?
2) What is the purpose of the baffle in the N tractor filler tube if it is not meant to help contain the oil mist picked up in blow by gases? If it has no purpose is it OK to remove it so I can pour fresh oil in more quickly?
All that got us, as I noted at the time, was a grammatically challenged & ill tempered rant as you attempted to divert attention from your clear & obvious lack of knowledge of automotive mechanics in general & N's in particular.
Unfortunately, you have a history on this forum of making ludicrous statements and then getting in a snit when you are asked to back up the statements. For example, in 2010, you told us your EI didn’t have transistors or a rotor. You also said “Ford New Holland is coming out with a "Original" 8N tractor, just like the old one...same engine, same fenders, hoods, you wouldn't tell the old versus the new apart." And you advised a poster w/ stripped out threads in his sediment bowl to buy an electric fuel shut-off valve for $60……which must be screwed into those stripped threads in the sediment bowl.
You were asked to explain those statements and you ignored us. Well, you didn’t really ignore us; you just never answered the questions & simply responded w/ a tirade of insults sufficient to get you banned from the board.
So, why don’t you just answer the questions? Surely it can’t be because you do not know what you’re talking about, is it? More to the point, why do you consciously choose to publicly embarrass yourself over & over by posting here at all?
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
What are you trying to do Bruce, run him off the board?
What good does that do?
Show me someone here who hasn't made mistakes.
Go pour your self a couple of fingers of good malt or something.
Relax.
What good does that do?
Show me someone here who hasn't made mistakes.
Go pour your self a couple of fingers of good malt or something.
Relax.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Go read what he has posted at the links.
Yea, we all make mistakes. And we all readily admit them.
Not this guy.
Check out the links.
Yea, we all make mistakes. And we all readily admit them.
Not this guy.
Check out the links.
Jim in Ma.
Well-known Member
It's gonna be a looooong Winter!
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Didn't read the links Bruce. Don't really care who was right or wrong.
I don't think you'll get the man to humble himself. Nor admit or apologize for giving bad advice - if he did.
Playground bully pushes me into the corner and demands an apology I wouldn't either. I'd stand and fight. Even if I knew I was wrong.
If some malt wont do
I've got some Hennessy in a cabinet somewhere here. Let me pour you one.
I don't think you'll get the man to humble himself. Nor admit or apologize for giving bad advice - if he did.
Playground bully pushes me into the corner and demands an apology I wouldn't either. I'd stand and fight. Even if I knew I was wrong.
If some malt wont do
I've got some Hennessy in a cabinet somewhere here. Let me pour you one.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
" Show me someone here who hasn't made mistakes."
More to the point, nobody around here, least of all me, cares about how many N’s he's operated for however many years. And I doubt if anyone is amused by his adolescent attempts at humor or sarcasm either. And it probably doesn’t bother anyone that he is apparently semi-literate as evidenced by his 6th grade spelling & grammar efforts. None of that likely matters to anyone, but what does matter is his constant & never ending capacity to give out bad advice and then refuse to admit it. That really is a special kind of stupid rarely seen around here. Nobody cares what he thinks of me, 50 Tips, world peace, global warming or anything else. This is a Ford tractor board. We place a high value on factual answers. He has consistently failed to do that. Instead, as I’ve said before, he has a clear & obvious lack of knowledge of automotive mechanics in general & N's in particular but persists in giving advice, 95% of which is wrong.
As to your advice, two fingers of Jack Black works just as well..........
More to the point, nobody around here, least of all me, cares about how many N’s he's operated for however many years. And I doubt if anyone is amused by his adolescent attempts at humor or sarcasm either. And it probably doesn’t bother anyone that he is apparently semi-literate as evidenced by his 6th grade spelling & grammar efforts. None of that likely matters to anyone, but what does matter is his constant & never ending capacity to give out bad advice and then refuse to admit it. That really is a special kind of stupid rarely seen around here. Nobody cares what he thinks of me, 50 Tips, world peace, global warming or anything else. This is a Ford tractor board. We place a high value on factual answers. He has consistently failed to do that. Instead, as I’ve said before, he has a clear & obvious lack of knowledge of automotive mechanics in general & N's in particular but persists in giving advice, 95% of which is wrong.
As to your advice, two fingers of Jack Black works just as well..........
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Yeah, jack will do.
I got no dog in this fight ok? Well except towards all of you guys here for thinking that Ns are a holy relic or something. More and more I think less and less of the things and was always baffled by a guy that would own three of them.
But at least you're starting on a learning curve again with that 740. I do admire that.
But back to the point here, I just haven't seen you go off on a fellow like that too often. Well except on me
But we both know that I can take it as well as dish it out. So from one playground bully to another I was just advising that you weren't gonna win this one. Even if you're right.
I got no dog in this fight ok? Well except towards all of you guys here for thinking that Ns are a holy relic or something. More and more I think less and less of the things and was always baffled by a guy that would own three of them.
But at least you're starting on a learning curve again with that 740. I do admire that.
But back to the point here, I just haven't seen you go off on a fellow like that too often. Well except on me
But we both know that I can take it as well as dish it out. So from one playground bully to another I was just advising that you weren't gonna win this one. Even if you're right.Harry Wilken
Member
great reply/explanation. So what position is best for plowing snow with a back blade?
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Well, when we go off on each other it most always is opinion based. When either one of us makes a factual error in our efforts to beat each other over the head w/ our opposing opinions, we 'fess up & move on. Your opinion is that I'm not going to win this one.....and I'd say the facts are on your side!
That being said, there is some satisfaction in being right.
That being said, there is some satisfaction in being right.
DollarBill
Member
Harry, not to get in the way of the flame-fest, but the [b:84ca294557]draft[/b:84ca294557] position is for ground engaging implements like plows and sub-soilers. You will likely be happier with [b:84ca294557]position[/b:84ca294557] control because in the [b:84ca294557]draft[/b:84ca294557] mode, the blade will dig into your driveway before it generates enough force to cause the lift to elevate the blade - Make sense?
saguaro_squeezer
Member
saguaro_squeezer
Member
So, would position be the best way to use a gannon on a driveway? If so, I'd better get my Zane Thang installed on my 2N.
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD 21773
(quoted from post at 09:13:08 01/12/12)
LMAO
TOH
saguaro_squeezer
Member
Well, I'm new to all of this so I hope that I asked the question right. 2N has draft only and 8N has position or draft, right? The Zane Thang adds position to the 2N ... at least that's what I thought I read in all the writeups.
I know that with the 3point and Gannon on the back of the pickup, it felt more like position/bounce until I added the airbags. :lol:
Harry Wilken
Member
Thanks. I just got to wondering. I always thought don't talk religon or politics. Guess tractor falls somewhere in there as well
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