grandpa Love
Well-known Member
Simple fix..... Sold this 8n. The buyer used it a while, then rebuilt the motor and did a nice paint job....... This post is 4 years oldROOT CAUSE: Worn Engine. DO NOT BUY another engine until full testing is done. How do you know yours is blown? Rebuild yours. We will need more info too. Is it 6V or 12V? Front Mount or Side Mount Distributor? Wired correctly for your system? So, your 8N tractor is 75+ years old. Did you think it would last forever? When was engine last rebuild? Do you check the oil level with the dipstick as part of your pre-starting procedure/check list? Engine must be cold to get an accurate reading. If level is in an acceptable range, leave it alone. You can add more or do an oil change once tractor is running efficiently. If oil is low can add fresh to within range. At start up, engage IGN key ON but do not crank. Observ AMMETER immediately. Needle on Gauge should bump slightly to the "+" region. OK? Start engine. No AMMETER reading or starter motor/relay just cranks but won't turn over is sign battery is weak or dead. Get it tested at a shop. Next, if engine starts up, observe Oil Pressure Gauge. What does the Gauge read? Normal should be about 25 PSI plus or minus at idle start up. Allow engine to warm up. A worn engine will start to lose oil pressure as it gets hot. Operating tractor under load like mowing at 7/8 Throttle will show a higher oil level but that will start to drop as it runs more. Throttle down to idle and will show how low and bad it really is. DO NOT OPERATE TRACTOR with Oil Pressure below 10 PSI at idle. At risk now to blow the engine. Time for a rebuild. Best to use a good,relable machine shop who knows old FORDS for a rebuild. Take tractor in to him, or, If you like to wrench, can strip engine down to the bones and take it in to a shop. Machinist will boil the block and head, Magna-Flux and inspect for cracks or any weld jobs, then advise the next step. If block is OK, he'll precision measure the bore diameter and crank journals and then tell you exactly what size engine kit you need or will supply the correct one. Kit will have new pistons and sleeves. Get them. Do not try reusing any old parts. FORD engine blocks til 1950 used steel cylinder sleeves and were ID'g as such by a STAR (★) symbol prefix and suffix on the serial number stamp. In April, 1950 FORD changed sleeves to cast iron and ID'd with a DIAMOND (⬦ ) symbol in s/n and never looked back. It's all a moot point now because they no longer make steel liners. Machinist will regrind crank and get correct new bearings for it. If head needs re-decking he can do that but not required -he will inspect and advise. Rebuilding the oil pump and system is part of the rebuild job. Forget 'trailering' or attempting to pull-start, or jump starting. Do you know the correct way to jump start? Avoid buying any new parts and replacing without testing them first. Invest in The ESSENTIAL MANUALS and read religiously.
Tim Daley (MI)