Spade connectors

I have had some trouble with using male and female connectors on spade connection points, the wire seems to pull out to easy after I ve crimped the end and my tractor gets used for a while, I shove the wire in as far as it will go and usually when my wires break it takes most of the stripped wire with it. Any suggestions on how to make these connections more strong or a different type of connector I can use? Thanks!
 

Sounds like you need better crimpers if the entire length of stripped wire pulls out of the crimp. If the wire is breaking inside the crimp, it is over crimped. That is most likely to happen with the type of crimper that has a point pressing into the crimp if you are too aggressive, the crimp actually severs the wire by compression. Someone trying to use cutting pliers to crimp with can do it as well.
 
Pull the plastic end off the spade connector, slide it down the wire, solder the stripped wire into the connector and slide the plastic back onto the connector. Makes a for-sure connection. And a new connector is tinned, so the solder flows right into it. steve
 

Automotive type crimping pliers generally have dedicated crimping points in the jaws. Use actual crimping pliers as recommended for the terminals you are using. What are you using now to crimp with? What brand and type (insulated or uninsulated) terminals are you crimping? With that info someone can likely give you info on the right type to look for.
 
I would solder all of my connections if I had the tools to solder my connections that kinda why I m asking what I can do to crimp my connections the best
 

No problem with what you are asking, but info of the terminals and what you are using for tools now will help get you the best answers. Pictures of the terminals you are using and what you are stripping and crimping with, is a start if you don't have brand or know the type.
 
You need the proper crimping tool and the proper size terminals for the wire
gauge.

Also use the proper stripping tool. Using the wrong stripper will 'ring' the
wire, which can cut into the wire, weakening the connection and causing it to
eventually break.

I much prefer to solder, coat with liquid tape, then shrink tube it.
Especially in harsh environments like under trailers or in fender wells.

Soldering equipment is cheap compared to having to go back and chase problem
later!
 
These
mvphoto95632.png

These are the style of pliers I am using to crimp, and do not know the brand name as I cannot find it, pretty sure they are not Klein tools though. I am also using Gardner bender 12-14 awg male and female insulated connectors would buy these in packs of 100 of male and female connectors
mvphoto95633.png[
 
The blue connectors (20-153P are Male and female pairs and are for 14-16 gauge wire. Yellow (10-155F and 21-155M) are for 10-12 wire.

If you are trying to use 10 or 12 gauge wire with the 20-153 terminals, it may not fully insert into the terminal crimp area so you may only be catching a bit of the wire. The pliers you have should crimp those terminals fine, I use similar ones. When you insert the wire look in the other end and see if you see a bit of the end completely through the crimp sleeve before crimping.

Also use care stripping. If you strip with too small an opening for the wire gauge it cuts into the wire strands. That can lead to the wire breaking off as well.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 08/07/2022 at 05:37 pm.
 
If you are trying to put these on too small a gauge wire, there can be slip out and breakage problems as well. Terminal size needs to match the wire gauge for best results. I solder some and crimp many, depends on what and where. I don't have breakage or slip out issues with the crimps.
 


For the past fifty years or so I have been using terminals of a size that allows me to double the wire. When it is doubled it tightens when pulled on. I use just cheap old crimpers and have rarely had a problem.
 
I have used the cheapest crimper/strippers ever made I think for forty years now.
Can't even find a pic.
I notice a lot of the new ones have spots for crimping insulated that just smash the barrel into pointed oval.
And have spots for uninsulated terminals that put a deep dimple in the barrel.

Mine are the dimple only style.
If I don't have the correct size barrel for the wire gauge, I fold the stripped wire onto itself.
Then I look in the barrel to see where the seam is and line up the dimple maker with the seam. I also put the handle up against a solid object like a work bench and lift myself of my feet when crimping if I can. 175lbs does a good crimp and no breaking of wires.

Maybe your breaking of wires is vibration fatigue?

This post was edited by DoubleO7 on 08/09/2022 at 07:40 am.
 
I like to use bare terminals (no plastic covered barrel) and use heat shrink tubing after crimping to insulate the terminal barrel and seal the joint. The
heat shrink tubing also provides support to the wire. The wire must be supported in a harness or other means; do not allow to dangle free air. NAPA and other
parts outlets should have heat shrink tubing. Good stuff, also available with a sealant inside if water tight joints are required.
 
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