Spark Plugs

I've noticed it's been a few months since we have argued about spark plugs, so here goes.

I have a Massey Ferguson 202 with Continental Z134 gas engine (think MF 35/ 135). I was out on Saturday to pull two Holley stumps.

It wasn't running (idling) great. I presumed it was the fact that I haven't used it much in two months and the temperature went from the 90s to the 50s. I got it warmed up good and proceeded to adjust the idle mix screw and adjust the idle speed. Well, that didn't go so well. Next, I hooked up the timing light to check that and get a read on the RPMs. Timing looked good, so I moved the pickup to #2. Nothing. I screwed around and finally pulled the #2 plug (25 hours on it) it was fouled a bit. I cleaned it up, reinstalled, and it fired for about 30 seconds, then quit firing. Autolite 3116. I replaced it with a used plug (same) re- adjusted the carburetor and all as well.

I'll be replacing the Autolite 3116 with NGK 2910 (AB-6).

Thoughts?

Comments welcome!
 
Can't go wrong with NGK. That's pretty much all I use anymore. The car manufacturer I worked for had a TSB saying to quit using Champions (they were OE at one time) and use only NGK. That was in the mid 2000s. Denso are good too, they are now part of NGK. I only used Autolites once and wasn't impressed at all. They used to have good plug wires though. I have an orange set on my 56 Chevy that have been on it since the mid 90s. That pickup has AC Delco plugs that are from the same time. They used to be good but I haven't put any new ones in since about 2005 so I don't know how they are anymore. 2 of my Ms have AC Delcos that were put in around 2000 and they are still running just fine.
 
Since GM stopped making spark plugs in-house, quality has been a real crap-shoot. The Denso and NGK plugs are pretty reliable, and I beleive are some of the OEM sources for what are now labeled as "AC-Delco" plugs. A forging shop where I worked in the '80s used to head/extrude the shells for AC division, doing the heading, thread rolling, ID stamp and knurl rolling, and everything but welding on the side electrode. They were shipped to GM by the tens of thousands back then.
 
I'm a probably a bit younger than most on here. 25 years ago Champions seemed to be a a problem so I switched to Autolite. I had some issues with two-stroke motors (mostly Stihl) and NGK was recommended. No regrets.

As a side note, I was able to look my engine up on NGKs website. That site did provide a part number for the correct plug.
 
I run ngk in the Farmall c cause I can easily get a wrench on it.
But I put ngk in ., so I never changed them , I guess there is no advantage to the wrench size .
 
My 1970s Arctic Cats would run good on NGK or Bosch. Champions would usually run for one trip but the next time I wanted to start it I'd have to replace the plugs again. Especially the 1 lunger 292 Lynx.
 
Did someone buy Autolite and start up manufacturing again? They had been shut down because the parent company of fram and them went bankrupt so ngk is what I received for the Deeres
 
Did someone buy Autolite and start up manufacturing again? They had been shut down because the parent company of fram and them went bankrupt so ngk is what I received for the Deeres
Premium Guard inc bought Fram, Autolite and other brands. I haven't seen anything about them being back in production though. Most of the Autolite plugs were made in China with a few being made in Illinois and Ohio. This from Wikipedia:

Most Autolite spark plugs are manufactured in China, where FRAM GROUP OPERATIONS LLC Imports from SHANGHAI SWEET AUTO PARTS CO LTD in through the Port of Oakland;[5] some are made in FRAM Group's factories in Greenville, Ohio, and Albion, Illinois, USA.
 
When adjusting your idle mixture were you tuining it the correct direction? The Marvel Schebler low speed screw controls air, so it is out for leaner
 
When adjusting your idle mixture were you tuining it the correct direction? The Marvel Schebler low speed screw controls air, so it is out for leaner
I was. The carburetor probably didn't need any adjustment. It just didn't idle that well on three cylinders. I thought it was just idling a little rich. We'll it was!

When I first got the tractor, about 5 years ago, it wouldn't idle below 600 rpms. I did bother to investigate further because of low oil pressure. When I rebuilt the engine last winter, I took a close look at the carburetor. Someone had the throttle plate upside down and backwards.
 
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