Stabilizer Bar Problem

[Caryc]

I ordered a set of stabilizer bars for my brush hog. I thought I'd play it smart and order one adjustable one. I figured I'd put the non adjustable one on first, then the adjustable one would be a piece of cake.

Well, that cake turn out to be moldy and stale.

As you can see in the picture below, the angle on the end is so drastic that I can't get it on. I'm holding it in the position that it needs to be when it's on. Even if I enlarged the hole to get it on, with it at such an angle like that it covers half of one side of my pin hole.

I tried this thing every way I could. I turned it around, flipped it end to end and backwards. It just doesn't work.

My question is this. Can I heat that cast brass and straighten out that angle or is it just going to break on me? If the darn thing didn't have any angle at all it would probably work fine. It's almost a dead straight shot from the pins on my axles to the pins on the brush hog.

I wish now that I'd just ordered two of the cheap ones. Well, that's what I get for trying to do things the easy way.

 

[Trucker1290]

I may be wrong, but it looks like if you rotate it 180 degrees it will slip right o

 

[dont_know_a_thing]

I dont know, but I'd agree with Trucker1290 on this one.. Or leave it and try it put it on the other side....

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 16:53:38 06/21/10) I may be wrong, but it looks like if you rotate it 180 degrees it will slip right o

Do you honestly think I'm that stupid that I didn't try that? I said I tried every way I could to get that thing on. If I turn it around the angle is just as drastic the other way.

As I said if you stand in back of my tractor and look at it, It's pretty much a straight shot from the axle pins to the brush hog pins. I'll say it again, it just doesn't need any angle there.

Look at the angle between the threaded body of the bar end and the body of the brush hog pin. I's just about 90 degrees.

I'll ask one more time. Can this cast brass be heated and straightened out without it breaking?

 

[rmlarsen]

I use 2 straight bars on mine. Don't see any need for an angled one.

 

[tractorfix]

That's a really nice way to respond to someone trying to help you. Why did you even bother asking if you're going to go off like that? I personally would have had enough common sense to realize if I posted that pic, it would illicit that response.
I really doubt the ends are cast brass, they would break instantly. They're likely cast steel with a yellow cad plating. Try to stick a magnet to it.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 17:28:21 06/21/10) That's a really nice way to respond to someone trying to help you. Why did you even bother asking if you're going to go off like that? I personally would have had enough common sense to realize if I posted that pic, it would illicit that response.
I really doubt the ends are cast brass, they would break instantly. They're likely cast steel with a yellow cad plating. Try to stick a magnet to it.

OK, I'm sorry, but I've been screwing around with that thing by myself for two hours trying to pry that brush hog around and slip pins in. I just didn't have enough hands. That can be very frustrating.

I was very careful to tell you in my original post that I tried to fit that thing every which way it could be fitted so I would not get a "just turn it around" response.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 17:27:02 06/21/10) I use 2 straight bars on mine. Don't see any need for an angled one.

It was supposed to fit a Ford "N" tractor. I did not specifically order it for an angled end, I ordered it because it was adjustable.

 

[Brent 41 9N]

I will have to agree with Tractorfix on this one. IT IS NOT BRASS. You should have no problem heating and bending. Just be carefull no to bend it all at once. They can still break, even heated.
Yes, all you should have bought was the cheap straight one. I will have to agree that yours looks pretty dang good though.

 

[Caryc]

OK guys, once again, my sincerest apologies. I'm just very frustrated. Here it is turned around.

By the way I did try the magnet and of course you guys are right, it's not brass so I wil try to straighten it.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Can you move your implement to get it on?

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 18:08:44 06/21/10) Can you move your implement to get it on?

Nope. It took a lot of prying around with a 4 X 4 just to get it that close. It only goes on that far because of the taper on the end of the pin.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

I tried one about three weeks ago and it didn't fit either. I sent it back.

 

[BillM (OH)]

Torch, BFH and anvil should make short work of it. I use 2
straight bars, but it would be easier to hook up heavy stuff
with one adjustable, I suppose. Probably worth straightening.

 

[sfurn52]

I have one just like your bar -- I fought with it & did get it on -- but I only use one bar.

The real hassle was / is the box blade since it has a closed opening -- meaning it has two pieces of metal with holes & you must get the lift AND the stab bar into them -- I made a heavy duty 4 wheel cart & I drop the box blade on it & then I can roll it around until I get it right -- cussing helps.

Depending on what implement I'm putting on I have to adjust the length of it -- the reason I bought was that I simply could not get the box blade & the lift bar to match up with my flat bar.

For the life of me I can figure out why they put that much angle on them.

 

[Ken(Ark)]

I would slip the lift arm off the hog frame pin , then sandwich the stabilizer bar between the frame and the lift arm and install the lynch pin .

Then slip a long piece of pipe over the stabilizer bar and proceed to bend the eyelet straight or close to it . I think I could do it without a cheater pipe because there is a quick tapper in size from the threads to the eyelet .

I bend steel all the time for wrought iron rail and gates . It is usually done cold and with a cheater pipe . The key is finding a way to hold the eyelet firmly while pressure is being applied . Sandwiching it on the pin between the frame and lift arm should hold it steady enough .

If this doesn't help I will gladly refund any fees for my advise - Ken(Ark)

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 18:48:07 06/21/10) I would slip the lift arm off the hog frame pin , then sandwich the stabilizer bar between the frame and the lift arm and install the lynch pin .

Then slip a long piece of pipe over the stabilizer bar and proceed to bend the eyelet straight or close to it . I think I could do it without a cheater pipe because there is a quick tapper in size from the threads to the eyelet .

I bend steel all the time for wrought iron rail and gates . It is usually done cold and with a cheater pipe . The key is finding a way to hold the eyelet firmly while pressure is being applied . Sandwiching it on the pin between the frame and lift arm should hold it steady enough .

If this doesn't help I will gladly refund any fees for my advise - Ken(Ark)

There is an old geezer about 20 minutes from me that has a shop in a big old sheet metal building. He does welding and it kind of looks like an old blacksmiths shop. He has lots of very old machinery there and lots of neat old stuff hanging on the walls. I'm going to take it to him tomorrow morning and get him to straighten it. Even if it does break he can probably weld it.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Never had a problem with two regular stabilizers, you need a big
lever (crow bar) to move the equipment into place, or need to
practice backing up to it.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 20:48:41 06/21/10) Never had a problem with two regular stabilizers, you need a big
lever (crow bar) to move the equipment into place, or need to
practice backing up to it.

You guys don't seem to be reading what I say in my posts. I used a 4" X 4" and moved that brush hog every which way I could. If you will notice. The lower lift arm is already on the pin and holding it in place. Both lower lift arms and one non adjustable stabilizer bar are already on the brush hog pins. How the heck do expect that pin to move anywhere now?

Guys, I have turned that stabilizer bar over, under, around, upside down, backwards, forwards and if I could I'd turn it inside out. I have jerked, pried, pushed, pulled that brush hog everywhere I could move it.

That stupid bar just has too much angle on the end to fit on the pin. I don't understand why you guys can't believe that. Now you see why I was so frustrated with it. I took two pictures to show you why it wouldn't fit, and I guess some of you still don't believe me.

The reason for my original post was to ask if I could straighten out that angle without breaking the end off of it. Not really for suggestions on how to get it on since I already spent two frustrating hours seeing that it just was not possible to do.

Maybe it has to do with the set up on the brush hog with the distance between the two pins. If that distance was closer or further apart it would affect the angle of the stabilizer bars. As I said, on this brush hog, those stabilizer bars run practically straight back from the pins on the axle brackets to the pins on the brush hog.

Just because some of you may have managed to use the same adjustable stabilizer bar on your equipment doesn't mean it's going to work on mine. You have already seen one poster say his wouldn't fit because of the drastic angle and he just returned it. So please believe me when I say it won't fit as is.

Thanks for the help anyway guys. I'll let you know if I get it straightened out tomorrow and if I got it on.

As far as "learning how to back up to the brush hog", c'mon guys, I said the two lower lift arms are already on the pins. What has backing up to the implement got to do with anything?

 

[36 Coupe]

You have the screweye backward.

 

[36 Coupe]

All bars are bent slightly on both ends.Go back and look at your pix.Dufus moment.

 

[DollarBill]

[b:3b46e606be][color=darkred:3b46e606be]That stupid bar just has too much angle on the end to fit on the pin[/color:3b46e606be].[/b:3b46e606be]

I have a set of the adjustable stabilizer bars. One end is straight and the other has the angle as shown in your original photo.

Mine will only fit up with the angled end connected to the tie point beneath the tractor.

If both ends are angled, you will need to straighten one end after heating with a torch. Don't try to bend it cold as it'll likely snap off.

 

[Plane Bart]

See if this helps I understand your frustrstion.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 03:39:37 06/22/10) You have the screweye backward.

Did you even look at the two pictures I posted? I showed it both ways. How can you possible say that?

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 03:52:08 06/22/10)

[b:255fb35ce1][color=darkred:255fb35ce1]That stupid bar just has too much angle on the end to fit on the pin[/color:255fb35ce1].[/b:255fb35ce1]

Mine will only fit up with the angled end connected to the tie point beneath the tractor.

What part of this sentence makes you think I neglected to try that?

[b:255fb35ce1]Guys, I have turned that stabilizer bar over, under, around, upside down, backwards, forwards and if I could I'd turn it inside out. I have jerked, pried, pushed, pulled that brush hog everywhere I could move it. [/b:255fb35ce1]

Well, I guess I just need to keep furnishing proof of what I'm trying to say and just can't seem to get the point across. With the angled end on the tractor pin, this is where the bar winds up. Before you tell me to turn the angle facing the other way, if I do that, it won't even go on the pin since the end of the bar hits the tire.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 07:27:22 06/22/10) See if this helps I understand your frustrstion.

I saw that picture in a previous post of yours. The bar I have on the other side is a flat bar just like yours. The slight angles on the flat bar do not create a problem since the bar is way thinner than the cast part on the adjustable bar.

With the thinner flat bar, this does not put the hole at to drastic of an angle and allows it to slip on the pin as your does. The angle on the cast bar puts the hole at the same angle so it won't slip on the pin. As I said before even if I filed the back and front of that hole to compensate for the angle and got it on the pin, the angle of the casting itself would cover up half of my linch pin hole.

 

[SWMO]

Been there done that. Just torch the end and bend it to fit. Takes just a few minutes and your ready to go out in the fields.

 

[jdchet]

You have already seen one poster say his wouldn't fit because of the drastic angle and he just returned it.

Sounds like a plan to me!
JMHO......
Sounds like an awful lot of aggravation and heartache just to put the wrong (or defective?) part on! I've never had any trouble with the flat bars when mounting the bushhog or the back blade.

JD :roll:

 

[Dunk]

On my pond scoop the pins are turned to the inside of the attachment, instead of the outside.

I bet if your pins were turned to the inside it would fit, but I could be wrong about that too.

All of my other equipment has them on the outside.

The pins could not be turned to the inside on my scrape blade.

I use flat, non adjustable, stay bars on all of my equipment.

I do not own a turning plow.

 

[DollarBill]

[b:0f08f5d54b][color=darkred:0f08f5d54b]What part of this sentence makes you think I neglected to try that?[/color:0f08f5d54b][/b:0f08f5d54b]

I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer and I guess I missed the part where you indicated one end was straight and the other angled - maybe you can point that out to me. And I never suggested you try it, I simply stated that I have a similar set up and that's how mine connects.

My burning question is why do you insist on flame sprayin' everyone that tries to help you?

Most everyone gets frustrated when they can't figure out the problem and yes there are folks who don't bother reading the whole string before jumping in with a response. Word of advise.... Take what info that will help you and ignore the rest. Remember, everyone who posted a response had the purest intentions of helping you, they just suffered in the execution of extending that help.

It has been suggested several times that if you can't figure out how to connect the stay bars to your equipment then maybe you should return them. So what are you waiting for?

[b:0f08f5d54b]Vaio Con Dios[/b:0f08f5d54b]

 

[Drew B]

Hey just reading through here and thought I might offer up something. Try putting the adjustable side (angle side) on the tractor not the hog. If you have already tried this then nevermind. just another option.

 

[36 Coupe]

Its still backward.

 

[36 Coupe]

Its still backward.

 

[36 Coupe]

Its still backward.

 

[Caryc]

OK, guys first let me apologize again. People were just not understanding that just turning the bar over or turning it end to end was just not going to work. I meant, think about it? Wouldn't you try every which way that bar could possible be put on the tractor before giving up on it. I said that I had tried everything and some guys just didn't seem to understand that.

I do appreciate all the help and I'm sorry I got frustrated. The problem is now fixed and I have posted two new pictures that show what I was talking about and why it wouldn't work with that angled end.

I went to the old geezer in the blacksmith shop. He heated and straightened out the eye on the end. I came home and it just slipped on there like it was custom made for the purpose. Take a look at the pics. One shows how the eye on the end is now straight and slid right on the pin no problem at all.

The other picture is looking at the tractor from the back. Look at the stabilizer bar. It is a straight shot back to the brush hog. Now can you guys see what the problem was?

It was not my intention to flame anyone or seem like I didn't appreciate people trying to help. I guess guys were just not understanding what the actual problem was.

For the gentleman that suggested turning the pins on the brush hog to the inside, that's how they originally were. The bars would not fit then either. I switched the pins to the outside because that's how they were supposed to be in the first place and I wanted them on there correctly.

 

[36 Coupe]

All stabilizer bars have the same hole location.Note that the implement must centered to have the bars fit.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 02:54:44 06/23/10) All stabilizer bars have the same hole location.Note that the implement must centered to have the bars fit.

All stabilizer bars most certainly do not have the same hole location. It's an adjustable bar. Take a look at the two pictures below. You just won't admit that the angle on the end of that bar was keeping it from slipping on the pin will you? Pictures don't lie. I have no doubts that if I'd just ordered to of the flat bars like I put on the other side, I would have had not problem. But someone here said it was easier if you ordered at least one adjustable bar.

 

[Caryc]

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