starter drive

46Chev

Member
Helping a neighbor out with putting the new "clutch" style starter drive on the starter of his 9n. We could not get the shaft gear to retract to the rear of the shaft in order for the straight gear to clear the flywheel ring gear. There was a little movement to the rear but not enough to clear so we took it a part and removed a little "spring cup" mounted in an inner hole and rotating about a hidden groove between the spiral gears on the inner shaft. We decided to take it out. Now the shaft rotates back to where it clears. Was this a mistake. It looked to us that this little "spring" would be chewed up in no time if it allowed the gear to slide all the way back. Did we do the right thing? What does the spring do?
 
Also, what's the best way to drive the pin through the shaft? Although the end of the drive has some play, it's not enough to allow the pin to travel through without severe beating or a press.
 
46Chev.......to install yer starter Bendix, gently clamp yer starter shaft UPSIDE-DOWN and press down with yer armpit, that will compress the Bendix spring and expose the mounting hole for the roll-pin. Then insert yer roll-pin and using a punch (nail) hammer it home. Simple, eh?

Some like to grind a chisel tip on the roll pin for eazier insertion, butt'cha gotta use yer pitts. ......dirty pitts Dell
 
Hey DELL....

TEST....John,PA

Picture: Large steel water tank. Wrapped on the outside with rubber insulation.

Plan: Using the process..electroloysis
Purpose: Clean interior surface of rust and scale. Prepare tank for long term usage.

Plastic pipes used to distribute water to ref. evaporators.

SHOULD WORK , EH??????>

Johnny.
 
John.......ya better "rethink" yer electrolysis scheme. Gotta have "ANODE" insulated inside the tank and whatta'bout the BLACK SCUM that settles on the RUST of the "CATHODE"? Solve those "problems" and it might work. ......Dell
 
Some stainless steel evaporator plates from ice machine for hanging (suspended) from the top man hole of the tank.

Let her cook fer a few days. Then flush with clean water. I can use the 3 hsp. circulating pump to send the black water overboard to the outside of the tank room.

All plastic pipe to the circulating pump. All I need to do is put a small modification to the pressure side of the centrifucal pump discharge line.

Otherwise, the owners have to drain the tank and every few years, send a worker into the tank and paint with epoxy. All is well for awhile, however, the apples create a aciditic Ph6 storage water situation.

After everything is dry, a couple of months, the tank could be coated with that stuff that the boys seal gas tanks with, assuming the correct MSDS report. The water in the tank never comes in contact with the product, only the al, and Cu evaporators. There is a drip plate on top of the evaps that spreads the warm water over the coils to get rid of ICE build-ups.

In fact I need to restore the drip plates, galv. metal due to rusting. I generally use cold galvanizing compound to coat the plates. Seem to hold up well after 10 yrs. or so, now.

Calgon (tm) engineers and I conferred about this process about 10 yrs. ago. They recommended one of their products as the soda. EXPENSIVE!!!!!!!!

Thanks John
 
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