Starting Issue

The starter is fine. I pulled it had it tested and had the drive inspected. The starter is fine and very strong. I put it back in. So, I am back to timing. I pulled the distributor again and checked the timing. It was a little off. I set it again and checked the point gap. Everything is set, I think. However, I decided to test the coil, just for fun. It was at .9 on ohms meter. Isn't it supposed to be 2.9? Anyway, I tried starting it and it would not start. Don't know if I have the timing wrong or the coil is bad. Any help will be appreciated.
 
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The starter is fine. I pulled it had it tested and had the drive inspected. The starter is fine and very strong. I put it back in. So, I am back to timing. I pulled the distributor again and checked the timing. It was a little off. I set it again and checked the point gap. Everything is set, I think. However, I decided to test the coil, just for fun. It was at .9 on ohms meter. Isn't it supposed to be 2.9? Anyway, I tried starting it and it would not start. Don't know if I have the timing wrong or the coil is bad. Any help will be appreciated.
Did it fire and kick the starter out again? If it didn’t you got to check it for spark at the plugs again.
 
I did say it confused me most of the time. I even tried to draw it out. It didn't FEEL right but that's what my brain told me. Thanks for fixing that. steve
@stevieb49829 Here is how to think of it. You’re a kid on the playground circling around the flag pole, you know the way with one hand on it. The school yard bully is there with a log to lay in your path to trip you. The direction the bully moves the log to trip you sooner is “advancing” your fall. Your the rotor or distributor shaft, the log is equal to the points in the distributor and they are connected to the distributor base.
 
The meter leads need to make a very good connection to the primary terminals of the coil to take that measurement accurately.
I measured it three times, using alligator clips . I got the same reading each time. It was .9 each time. I think it should be more like 2.9 or 3.0. I will check for spark tomorrow. I don't expect to see any plugs firing.
 
I checked to make sure they were connected very well. Does anyone know what the reading should be on front mount 8n coil. I saw somewhere that it should be around 2.9. Does that sound right?
 
a bad connection will make the ohms read high, but low?
One of Henry’s scriptural writings says for a 6 volt 1.06 to 1.17 ohms at 75 degF. What do you think HFJ, is his meter accurate enough to condemn it with a reading of 0.9 ohms? But wait you have a 12 volt conversion, so the ohm value should be 2.5 ohms. So your coil is either bad if is designed as a 12 volt coil. Or the ohm value is reading just a bit low for a 6 volt (or it’s your meter) and to operate on 12 volts it should be run with a resistor. If it is bad that is kind of odd, a few days ago it was firing a test plug just fine. Anything can happen. I personally would not let all my money ride on a bad coil. I should give up on the manual adjectives, the guy that I aimed them at has departed us.
 
OK so this is how I tested mine...battery full charge , you will need a 6volt or 12 volt test light( doesn't matter 6 or 12 volt). The ones that look like a screwdriver, but have a light bubble inside, with the one lead running out the back..I'm hoping you know what im talking about...if not let me know and I'll find a pic on Amazon..
Anyways, one end goes to the motor ground( postive ground on 6 volt) so just find a place on the side..block..bolt..etc. that the other end ( screwdriver end) hold the end( screwdriver end) on the wire post on top of the coi( red wire at the back center) , turn the key on..did the light, light up inside the tester? Turn the motor over with the starter..does the light go on and off....on...off.
When you turn the motor over does the light stay on all the time?...if the light stays on all the time , it means your points are burnt closed...you need new points..
If the light goes on and then off...on...off..etc then your points are working right.
Three test, take one of your spark plug wires off at the spark plug, and place it near a headbolt..or something metal on the head, I usually use a pair of vicegrip (very lightly!) to hold on to the outside rubber case ( very lightly!)of the spark plug wire, you will have to take the rubber boot off the end, exposing the steel head (that clips on the plug)hold the end about an 1/8 of an inch from a bolthead ,why I use vicegrips laying on the head..you dont want to be touching the vicegrips or sparkplug wire, while turn over the motor you will get a shock! ..lay them down on the head and position them, close to the bolt head...turn the motor over with the starter...look for an, arc between the end of the sparkplug wire and the bolt/ metal ...if there is none, and if your points passed the first test..then it would be a bad coil..
So ( if it was me) , take the coil out and test it. Also while removing the coil, look at the spring post on the bottom of the coil..is it still there.? Bent over? If so there would be another place to look...lol...and how do I know this??..because alot of people help me ! Great forum, with some patient teachers ! Lol...next charging system...stupid me..lol I converted back to 6 volt...lol..I'm having lots of fun!...and yes I mean it...been out in the shop more in the last two weeks , then I've been in the last two years!
Cheers
B
 
@stevieb49829 Here is how to think of it. You’re a kid on the playground circling around the flag pole, you know the way with one hand on it. The school yard bully is there with a log to lay in your path to trip you. The direction the bully moves the log to trip you sooner is “advancing” your fall. Your the rotor or distributor shaft, the log is equal to the points in the distributor and they are connected to the distributor base.
If I had just not thought about it, I would have got it right. It's always been intuitive to me, and I should have not questioned my intuition. steve
 
OK so this is how I tested mine...battery full charge , you will need a 6volt or 12 volt test light( doesn't matter 6 or 12 volt). The ones that look like a screwdriver, but have a light bubble inside, with the one lead running out the back..I'm hoping you know what im talking about...if not let me know and I'll find a pic on Amazon..
Anyways, one end goes to the motor ground( postive ground on 6 volt) so just find a place on the side..block..bolt..etc. that the other end ( screwdriver end) hold the end( screwdriver end) on the wire post on top of the coi( red wire at the back center) , turn the key on..did the light, light up inside the tester? Turn the motor over with the starter..does the light go on and off....on...off.
When you turn the motor over does the light stay on all the time?...if the light stays on all the time , it means your points are burnt closed...you need new points..
If the light goes on and then off...on...off..etc then your points are working right.
Three test, take one of your spark plug wires off at the spark plug, and place it near a headbolt..or something metal on the head, I usually use a pair of vicegrip (very lightly!) to hold on to the outside rubber case ( very lightly!)of the spark plug wire, you will have to take the rubber boot off the end, exposing the steel head (that clips on the plug)hold the end about an 1/8 of an inch from a bolthead ,why I use vicegrips laying on the head..you dont want to be touching the vicegrips or sparkplug wire, while turn over the motor you will get a shock! ..lay them down on the head and position them, close to the bolt head...turn the motor over with the starter...look for an, arc between the end of the sparkplug wire and the bolt/ metal ...if there is none, and if your points passed the first test..then it would be a bad coil..
So ( if it was me) , take the coil out and test it. Also while removing the coil, look at the spring post on the bottom of the coil..is it still there.? Bent over? If so there would be another place to look...lol...and how do I know this??..because alot of people help me ! Great forum, with some patient teachers ! Lol...next charging system...stupid me..lol I converted back to 6 volt...lol..I'm having lots of fun!...and yes I mean it...been out in the shop more in the last two weeks , then I've been in the last two years!
Cheers
B
I tried something similar yesterday. When i crank it the light goes on initially then very dim and off. That's why I tested coil. I checked the number on coil, I believe it is 12V. The one thing I didn't check is the wire to coil with key on.
 
I tried something similar yesterday. When i crank it the light goes on initially then very dim and off. That's why I tested coil. I checked the number on coil, I believe it is 12V. The one thing I didn't check is the wire to coil with key on.
Based on what you are saying, i believe now the points may need replacing. Just seems weird it was running fine a few days ago and after I rewired it, this happens. I must have fried the points or condenser or something. I don't know. Very helpful. I will run all the tests you suggested. Thank you.
 
Also, when I turn the key on. There is no light to the coil. It only comes on when I hit the thumb button or when it is cranking. I guess now I should review my wiring diagram and ck wiring.
 
Also, when I turn the key on. There is no light to the coil. It only comes on when I hit the thumb button or when it is cranking. I guess now I should review my wiring diagram and ck wiring.
Hmmm May be a clue there. It happens on 9N/2Ns often enough. Is it possible that the wire from the solenoid to the ammeter is on the starter terminal of the solenoid rather than the battery cable side?
Just a thought
 
Hmmm May be a clue there. It happens on 9N/2Ns often enough. Is it possible that the wire from the solenoid to the ammeter is on the starter terminal of the solenoid rather than the battery cable side?
Jusl
Hmmm May be a clue there. It happens on 9N/2Ns often enough. Is it possible that the wire from the solenoid to the ammeter is on the starter terminal of the solenoid rather than the battery cable side?
Just a thought
Okay, I bet you are correct. So it needs to be on the hot side?
 
"Okay, I bet you are correct. So it needs to be on the hot side?"

Yes, the wire from the solenoid to the ammeter needs to be on the same solenoid post as the battery cable to the solenoid is on.
 

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