Starting place

[DPittman]

I’m sure there has been a lot of discussion on this page about the Z-129 Continental engines in a TO-30 but never having owned one I haven’t paid attention. Till now. Just drug home a TO-30 which I’m sure is stuck which I’m not too much worried about, dealt with that before.
My concern is the apparent design flaw that allows the block to crack. I’ve raised the hood on this thing and squirted some Kroil in the cylinders and that’s it.
IF I discover a cracked block what is the best method of repair?
This is going to be a cancer memorial tractor for my late sister so I’m willing to spend some money on it, just want a repair that will last. The machine shop I use is very good but I have not talked to them about welding it or whatever repair options they may have. When I pulled the plugs, cylinders two and three had rust on the plugs and there is rust in the cylinders also. Coolant leak from a cracked block is my pessimistic opinion.
Like I said, just getting started.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Try a mixture of acetone and ATF in the cylinders.

 

[pomester]

I’m sure there has been a lot of discussion on this page about the Z-129 Continental engines in a TO-30 but never having owned one I haven’t paid attention. Till now. Just drug home a TO-30 which I’m sure is stuck which I’m not too much worried about, dealt with that before.
My concern is the apparent design flaw that allows the block to crack. I’ve raised the hood on this thing and squirted some Kroil in the cylinders and that’s it.
IF I discover a cracked block what is the best method of repair?
This is going to be a cancer memorial tractor for my late sister so I’m willing to spend some money on it, just want a repair that will last. The machine shop I use is very good but I have not talked to them about welding it or whatever repair options they may have. When I pulled the plugs, cylinders two and three had rust on the plugs and there is rust in the cylinders also. Coolant leak from a cracked block is my pessimistic opinion.
Like I said, just getting started.

The 'easy' answer to the cracked block is 'pinning' or 'bolting'. Basically drilling holes in either side of the block and using threaded rod run between the cylinders in the water jacket to hold things steady. There's several threads at this forum about it, use 'advanced search' and do some reading. The 'hard way' is furnace brazing and line boring. Only 'hard' in the sense that there are few shops able and willing to tackle the job, and it's relatively expensive. Easy to get more money wrapped up in repairing the block than the tractor is worth, but it's still a relatively modest amount in the big picture if it's something you really want to do.

One thing to consider is just replacing the engine - I paid $700 for a Z129 at a tractor salvage place, it was advertised as running and sure enough it does. Half the price of an overhaul kit/valve job and 10% of the labor. Obviously I was fortunate that the engine was accurately represented.

You are not going to know what you are up against until you do a bit of disassembly. Pull the oil pan and you can inspect the lower ribs of the block for cracks. Be aware there are casting lines about where you would find cracks, so inspect carefully. Cracks at the deck surface are of less concern since they can/are sealed by the head gasket.

 

[DPittman]

Okay,Thank you. I have been doing some reading and am leaning towards the the cross bolt repair because it seems like it would lend itself to more structural integrity to the block itself. Have yet to talk with my machine shop yet . Hopefully it ain’t cracked

 

[Ron(Ont)]

My 2085 has a crack repair.