I have 52DC and 42SC. There are little quarter inch plugs on the manifolds. Screw one out, give a squirt of ether, put plug in quickly, and crank. Starts! ( its against the rules to drop that little plug!!)
Also, for quite some time I was having trouble getting them started, even in good weather. I replaced the starter buttons. Now no problems.
those are momentary switches, and the contact points get burned and cruddy. I pried each apart and found that out. O’Reilys can get started buttons for you. They have a vintage tractor dept. That they can order parts.
As others have said DCs are sure starters in real cold weather. Mine likes a lot of choke. It does have a good hot mag.Any secrets to getting 1953 Case DC started when it is -12. Inside cold storage shed. 12V.
I have 3 DCs here all 12 V, anyone of them will turn and start anytime. If you are having trouble I suggest having the starter looked at and making sure you have a hot high amp battery and heavy tractor grade battery cables. My 39 has Popup pistons, block decked .060, engine is zero decked, no head gasket .100 off the head and it starts easily, I figure with no gasket, decking, and .100 off the head I have dropped the head nearly .250" and still turns nicely with the stock MAB 4105 starter. I do use a 1000 amp deka on that and have it mounted out front on my weight frame but it turns easily. I use solenoids instead of the push buttons as buttons are notorious for intermittent and weak cranking.
how do you seal compression with no gasket ???I have 3 DCs here all 12 V, anyone of them will turn and start anytime. If you are having trouble I suggest having the starter looked at and making sure you have a hot high amp battery and heavy tractor grade battery cables. My 39 has Popup pistons, block decked .060, engine is zero decked, no head gasket .100 off the head and it starts easily, I figure with no gasket, decking, and .100 off the head I have dropped the head nearly .250" and still turns nicely with the stock MAB 4105 starter. I do use a 1000 amp deka on that and have it mounted out front on my weight frame but it turns easily. I use solenoids instead of the push buttons as buttons are notorious for intermittent and weak cranking.
Copper fire ring in the outer edge of the sleeve, red silicone does the rest of the deckhow do you seal compression with no gasket ???
Any secrets to getting 1953 Case DC started when it is -12. Inside cold storage shed. 12V Claw ,, All my running Gassers start right up ,,. Pull choke all the way Half throttle ,,. Crank Over and They are running reduce Choke a needed as they warm up .. 7 degrees today and the little 400 B started right up to jump my 430 Diesel ,,. The manifold heater needed a extra boost ,,. i can always tell if there is enuf Zip in the starter.
1978 , Blizzard about this time of year ,.. 3rd d ay no electric ,, It had warmed up to -15 degrees .nothing would start in the neighborhood . and everyone was needing a pull , Plus we needed to make feed .. Dad and i Hand cranked our 1951 DC to life We poured a little gas in the breather and after the 3rd crank That DC started ,, We pulled Dad pickup to get started , Then the 430 Case Diesel then the 830 Diesel . We then went around the neiborhood pulling up firewood trees for those that had their fire stack buried in 15 ft of snow ,,. The ground was almost bare but the drifts were as high as the roof tops of a house .It's currently 4 degrees here, and I just used mine to help a neighbor. 51 DC my start sequence is turn on gas, full choke for 2 cranks, then 1-2 cranks with choke off and it starts. My starter hasn't worked in years, so this is hand cranking
I have 52DC and 42SC. There are little quarter inch plugs on the manifolds. Screw one out, give a squirt of ether, put plug in quickly, and crank. Starts! ( its against the rules to drop that little plug!!)
Also, for quite some time I was having trouble getting them started, even in good weather. I replaced the starter buttons. Now no problems.
those are momentary switches, and the contact points get burned and cruddy. I pried each apart and found that out. O’Reilys can get started buttons for you. They have a vintage tractor dept. That they can order parts.
WOULD YOU RECOMEND red silicone on both sides of a new gasket of a rebuilt and planned head of a model T9 IH crawler?? AS old head gasket was burnt between cylimders 1` and 2 with a severly cracked head on number 3. THANK YOUCopper fire ring in the oAuter edge of the sleeve, red silicone does the rest of the deck
I have never used red silicone to coat a gasket, I just use it as a stand alone sealer (gasket) as the head is tight down to the block. Red Silicone does have excellent heat resisting properties and it may do well there, not so much for compression sealing but would aid the gasket as far as antifreeze seeps. When I work with head gaskets, generally I use Copper Kote and put it down pretty thick. I would highly recommend that you torque to spec, start and run at operating temperature for an hour or so then retorque each bolt individually after cool down, loosening them enough to break the friction and then retorque to spec, then reset valves. You will be surprised how many degrees tightening that you get. Those particular engines you are working on can use all the help they can get and the problems you had were common. I know some others POO HOO the retorque recommendation, but it is right out of Case's service manuals and a good Idea. I did this stuff 50+ years in a professional shop where my work was guaranteed so I learned early not to cut corners. Good luck with your project, keep us posted as you progress.WOULD YOU RECOMEND red silicone on both sides of a new gasket of a rebuilt and planned head of a model T9 IH crawler?? AS old head gasket was burnt between cylimders 1` and 2 with a severly cracked head on number 3. THANK YOU
THANK you I also use copper coat. going to have to get vwarmer beforev I work,I have never used red silicone to coat a gasket, I just use it as a stand alone sealer (gasket) as the head is tight down to the block. Red Silicone does have excellent heat resisting properties and it may do well there, not so much for compression sealing but would aid the gasket as far as antifreeze seeps. When I work with head gaskets, generally I use Copper Kote and put it down pretty thick. I would highly recommend that you torque to spec, start and run at operating temperature for an hour or so then retorque each bolt individually after cool down, loosening them enough to break the friction and then retorque to spec, then reset valves. You will be surprised how many degrees tightening that you get. Those particular engines you are working on can use all the help they can get and the problems you had were common. I know some others POO HOO the retorque recommendation, but it is right out of Case's service manuals and a good Idea. I did this stuff 50+ years in a professional shop where my work was guaranteed so I learned early not to cut corners. Good luck with your project, keep us posted as you progress.
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