Still dealing with no start issue. 2N

[deanostoybox]

Well, I got her running again. For how long I don't know. I'm starting to lean towards it being the coil. I haven't been able to troubleshoot it for a few days. So today I started doing voltage checks and everything seemed to be checking out, but no start. I ran a jumper wire from the positive straight to coil. Meter registered battery voltage on coil top post. Still no start. I took the coil off and put the other coil I have on the tractor. Tractor starts. I get looking and some how I had put the old coil back on the tractor. The tractor has been idling for over a half hour now. My only concern is that the resistors are only knocking the voltage down to 9 volts at the coil. I put black lead on neg post of battery and red lead on coil top post and I get a reading of 9 volts going into a 6 volt coil with the tractor running. Do you think the coil will last very long being fed 3 volts over the limit? Any and all comments are welcome.

get a reading of 9 volts going into a 6 volt coil with the tractor running. Guessing analog meter? Anyway reading at top of coil tractor NOT running and points closed will tell you if voltage divided between resistor/s and coil is correct. Engine running voltage is constantly changing between battery voltage (points open) and divided voltage (points closed) so not valid.

 

[JMOR]

I don't know your meter, but measuring voltage into coil "with engine running", means that you are seeing open circuit battery voltage more of the time that a loaded coil input voltage. So likely reading the average and theoretically about right. Your fuel flow is fine, based on Nebraska tractor test consumption numbers.

 

[fordfan19422n]

I thank everyone again for helping me through the issue I'm having with my tractor. I'm not sure I'm out of the woods yet so to speak. The tractor started again yesterday but it seems to take a little more cranking to start than it did before this issue popped up.

I use a digital meter. My thought on checking the voltage at the coil with the tractor running was to give the resistors time to warm up and create more resistance. I will check the voltage at the coil with the tractor not running this evening and I'll report back. Thank you all again.

 

[fordfan19422n]

Ok, I checked the voltage with the tractor not running. Black lead on neg battery post and the red lead on top post of coil and I got a reading of 12.47 volts.

 

[deanostoybox]

Ok, I checked the voltage with the tractor not running. Black lead on neg battery post and the red lead on top post of coil and I got a reading of 12.47 volts.

points are open. now try with points closed.

 

[fordfan19422n]

Ok. It will be tomorrow before I will be able to test it. Do I keep bumping the starter and keep checking to see if I get a different voltage reading?

 

[deanostoybox]

Ok. It will be tomorrow before I will be able to test it. Do I keep bumping the starter and keep checking to see if I get a different voltage reading?

yes, or turn the engine by hand.

 

[JMOR]

yes, or turn the engine by hand.

High gear and rock them thar big ol tars

 

[fordfan19422n]

I bumped the starter and after several attempts, the volt meter read 1.63 volts and I assume the points closed. I didn't think it would be that low. I also checked the voltage where the wire to the coil comes off the ballast resistor and it read 1.63 volts also. So here is the breakdown 12.47 volts points open ( same as battery voltage), 1.63 volts points closed, 9 volts at coil when tractor is running. Gentlemen, give me your analysis.

 

[deanostoybox]

I bumped the starter and after several attempts, the volt meter read 1.63 volts and I assume the points closed. I didn't think it would be that low. I also checked the voltage where the wire to the coil comes off the ballast resistor and it read 1.63 volts also. So here is the breakdown 12.47 volts points open ( same as battery voltage), 1.63 volts points closed, 9 volts at coil when tractor is running. Gentlemen, give me your analysis.

Perhaps a bit low, I don't know, there are variables. I once did an experiment. Put a true RMS reading ammeter in series with the coil circuit of a front mount, Upon turning on ignition the meter went to above 5 Amps. In a few seconds current had dropped to 4 Amps, and a few minutes later the current seemed to stabilize at about 2.2 Amps. Function of the temperature dependent OEM ballast resistor. This was a static test, engine not running. Someone had done a test with engine running and found average current was a little over 1 Amp If I remember correctly. So if your engine starts and runs OK I would guess all is well. You are not overvolting the coil at your observed static voltage . Just my opinion.

 

[quinnbrian]

I had a problem lately, where if it sits for a couple of days, it doesn't like to start...I disconnect the battery, everytime I'm done..just in case..my new battery gets drained...somehow..anyways, I did all the checks like you..spark..yes..gas..yes, but what I did notice , is when i drain the carb, bolt on bottom of carb, I got mostly water first..maybe mixed with Ethanol??...the fluid wasn't dirty..just water...the gas was new..the can was empty..totally empty, before filling...my thoughts? The ethanol will hold water, hell if you want to turn low grade gas with ethanol in it to high grade, just pour it into a glass, with some water in the bottom, mix and let sit...when the water separates form the gas, it will take the ethanol with it, just sophin the pure gas off the top.
So I'm guessing there is alot more water in the gas , then there used to be..fuel injection motor, will run on just about anything..old carb motors..not so much.
Just had to rebuild/clean my carb again on my gas welder...I just did a rebuild on it less then 2 months ago...new gas tank..carb rebuilt lines etc..
The carb looked like it had carpet growing on the inside of it! In less then two month!
B

 

[Mad Farmer]

I had a problem lately, where if it sits for a couple of days, it doesn't like to start...I disconnect the battery, everytime I'm done..just in case..my new battery gets drained...somehow..anyways, I did all the checks like you..spark..yes..gas..yes, but what I did notice , is when i drain the carb, bolt on bottom of carb, I got mostly water first..maybe mixed with Ethanol??...the fluid wasn't dirty..just water...the gas was new..the can was empty..totally empty, before filling...my thoughts? The ethanol will hold water, hell if you want to turn low grade gas with ethanol in it to high grade, just pour it into a glass, with some water in the bottom, mix and let sit...when the water separates form the gas, it will take the ethanol with it, just sophin the pure gas off the top.
So I'm guessing there is alot more water in the gas , then there used to be..fuel injection motor, will run on just about anything..old carb motors..not so much.
Just had to rebuild/clean my carb again on my gas welder...I just did a rebuild on it less then 2 months ago...new gas tank..carb rebuilt lines etc..
The carb looked like it had carpet growing on the inside of it! In less then two month!
B

You will remove the water/ethanol collecting the upper separated
(organic) phase, but you will loose some octane as alcohols are higher octane.

A low compression N motor won't really care but be happy to be rid of the water.

I avoid E10 and always dump the sediment bowl if any water shows up. I also run the reserve setting open on the petcock so anything that separates in the tank drains out and don't rot the tank.