still need help on pony oil leak

I have had this pony out and in 4 times and still have an engine oil leak coming from under the pony and on top of diesel block. I have replaced rear seal behind flywheel, front seal behind timing cover, timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, new seal on oil drain, it is definetley crankcase oil from the pony and seems to only leak when pony is running or at least it is worse when running. I dont know what else to try, please help with any ideas T.I.A.
 
After the first time around I'd of test ran it on a work bench. I test run them after a rebuild and retorque the heads before installing them. Not hard to jump start them and run water into them with a hose.
 

When I purchased a rebuilt pony from Foreverdeere they test ran it for me on a cart in their dive way, simply had a small water resivor attached, worked fine.
 
attached to what and with what, wheres the starter button, and you have to get gas to it, you cant assume the people asking for help here are certified mechanics!
 

Really wish I had taken a pic, nobody ever believes me when I tell them that story.

Ryan, help me out here. Post a pic if you have one. A short video would be great.
 
Never worked on a pony but I've done it with automobile engines. Basically you need something to support the engine so it won't flip over when it starts. Wood cradle, strap on the workbench, tire, etc.

You need a small gas tank like something off an old lawnmower or use the one off the tractor. Place it above and away from the engine with a hose attached where the fuel line hooks up. You'll also need spark so the coil will be attached to the engine. Battery power to coil & kick cable from battery to starter will make it go. Remove power from the coil to make it stop. You can run an engine from 1 to 2 minutes dry and that's it. If you want to run it longer hook (tape,rag,whatever) a garden hose to where the water inlet is on the engine. You'll also need some type of hose on the outlet. Even then don't run it too long.
 
Was going to try to do this this weekend to show you, but out of time short a few pieces, the engine's not together just yet. I'll try to describe what I was thinking to do

Fuel is easy, just a small tank with a line running to the carb, make sure it's above the carb so the fuel flows.

Water is a bit harder. My thought is to use the pipes that fit into the passages normally. Then use a hose with hose clamps to connect them together. You might have to block off an extra passage in a pipe but I can't remember now with your 720. I'd take the cover off of the thermostat, and take out the thermostat, then fill the engine with water. Once it's full, put the thermostat cover back on.

I'd run the pony without the transmission, just so it's easier to see any leaks. This makes it harder to bolt up the starter since the bolts normally thread into the transmission. I would just use shorter bolts stuck through the starter mounting holes and tighten them with nuts to hold the starter in place. Leaving the solenoid in place of course.

Hook a battery cable onto the solenoid just like on the tractor, run it to the negative side of a six volt battery.

Hook a battery cable onto a handy bolt, the starter mount bolt would work perfect, and run it to the positive side of a six volt battery.

For the smaller connections I'd be using jumper wires (wires with alligator clips so I can connect and disconnect easily)

One jumper hooked to the hot cable (negative cable) on the starter and ready to hook up to the distributor terminal. You have to make sure not to leave this one hooked up when the engine is not running or it will burn up the distributor. Don't let it touch the engine anywhere else or if the engine is on the bench, any metal, as it will spark, leaving it that way would be bad. This connection will spark slightly when you connect or disconnect but nothing dangerous.

Another jumper connected to the hot cable and ready to hook onto the small post on the solenoid. Doing the last connection will make the starter crank the engine. Once the engine starts, you disconnect it so the starter stops. Don't let it touch the engine anywhere else or if the engine is on the bench, any metal, as it will spark, leaving it that way would be bad. This connection will spark slightly when you connect or disconnect but nothing dangerous.

The engine is small enough, yet heavy enough I wouldn't worry about it being held in place, though if it's up on a bench it might vibrate and walk off (fall off) the bench. Just something to keep it from moving if so would be good.

To run it, have the gas, water, and main battery connections hooked up. I would just keep the throttle at idle. You can run the choke with your hand if needed.

Connect the jumper to the distributor

Connect the jumper to the small post on the solenoid. The engine will start cranking, and likely start. Choke the carb if necessary to start. Immediately disconnect this wire once it starts.

To STOP the engine, all you have to do is disconnect the wire from the distributor.

Ignore any leaking water, unless it's a LOT. haha, it likely will.

Take a look around your engine for any leaking oil. BE CAREFUL of the open flywheel.

The engine shouldn't get too hot very fast, so don't worry too much, just feel the thermostat housing now and then to guess the temp. If it feels too warm to you, you can shut it off.

Again, to shut it off, all you have to do is disconnect the wire from the distributor.

Disconnect a cable from the battery (usually the positive) and everything is unpowered and safe.

This was a lot to read and type, but it's not too complicated to actually DO.

Brandon
 
I had the same problem on my 720 Diesel. It turned out to be the oil seal behind the pony motor water pump. Not an easy job to do.
 
Brandon: From What I remember doing years ago I think you are on the right track !
I may of used c-clamps to hold it to the bench ? I would for sure use something to help hold it in place. Like you said it most likely will try to walk off the bench.
 

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